gewoon ik

I saw it and borrowed some ideas. Otherwise i wouldn't have put it on it's end. The rail is old ( for me as a youngster) but not a 100 years old. I will use it as it is, saves me the hassle of harding it. And also whatever I think I need, I can always add. Thanks Charles, i thank you for the compliment btw.

Because not every piece of rails is railroad, I have one of cranerails. I have checked the topic of Georg about his modified railroad to steal, sorry borrow, ideas. I have grind in the web a fuller (both sides a different radius). A small horn. Rest is still a blank. No idea what i want. A hotcut seems smart, but as a beginner maybe something I need to sharpen a lot. So I am open for suggestions. One side is not flush (was not straight) and I get borred with grinding. But no idea if it will bother me. Maybe for installing in the support. Support needs to be made. Have some scrap wood, will propably something of that pile. I have to harden it. A bit scared of that. No idea why. I have the book "modern blacksmith". But do I harden it like in the book, so the topside or do i harden only the ends i plan on using? Some pictures in attachment so you cna understand my rambling the other end The piece is a bit longer than 300mm and flange is 150mm. Rest i fergot

Ha. It is a lot cooler than I thought. I have to check how to remove part of the wooden flaps than. And thank because I am not a overthinking type of person in the first place. At this speed by october I made up my mind, right after the lessons starts again

No, only small ventilation flaps, 1000x150 mm (lxw) but the ceiling is low, max 2m and the top of the flap is 10cm underneed the ceiling. And ceiling is insulated with pur pannels (the yellow foam). Burns easy. (The stuff burns at 80C or 176F, gives of toxic fumes and is almost impossible to put out) Long story short. I tought about it, even calculated the rectancle to put thru the flap. But i am scared of the low ceiling with the flammable isolation. Also dust inside. Some store cars there (perfect location, absolutly moldfree, moisture- and thempcontrolled cleanroom *insert sarcastic smiley*) so i don't want to cover them in coaldust, i cover them already with dust from my welding and grinding i do there Where i want to put the gasforge the ceiling is 2,5m heigh so makes a difference in my head. But just to be curious. Outside the window, the plan in my head was to stick a rectancle outside and on top make a tube go up, 1 m higher than the top of the roof so i needed 3m vertikal up. I fergot. Thanks for the tought.

how does the threats look like in the base? it is possible that the threats are worn over time and because of the moving of the blower (it is a handcrancked one?) they loosen. Can you get to the bottom side? If so. Drill out the remainders of the threat in the base. Longer bolts and put a nut on them. Or loctite

Goblin smithy, i send you pm. Have had several phones and numbers and lost your number. Mikey if i understand you say go for devil forge. Don't completly understand your response, but could me as well. It is a lot cheaper. I can buy a lot of gas for the difference in price.

Bingo. Glenn and Irondragon. Thanks. At the moment only the small stuff falls of, nothing big yet. But it is a matter of time.

Hello I'm Brecht, I'm from Belgium, Ghent. I'm following eveningcourses with a blacksmith (and a group of other students) to become a blacksmith. I like it, so it is time to invest in tools of my own. Looking for an anvil (or something that can be used, I'm looking around in the bin at work : heavy machinery repair shop). Already looking around here for a couple of weeks/months before posting. I rent a small workshop where I have a welder and some equipment for that. I share it with others. and to mess you guys up, i just copy the title of the fellow from Deinze just below me

why do I have the feeling I know you? I still have some things for you my friend.

Gents and ladies I'm fairly new to blacksmithing. I follow a course with a blacksmith to become a blacksmith. But now the first year is finished and during the break I still want to practice making steel hot and shaping it into something. I want to make smallish things : hooks, firepokers, bottle-openers, tools to make those thinks (so tongs and chisels and ...) small scrolls (i have a trivet made out of 3 scrolls that I like and some friends as well) I have a small workshop I rent (cheap). The building is an old stable used for chickens. The building is used and cleaned over 15 years ago and transformed into a workshop. The ventilators are still in and half of them are working, so ventilation is not a problem. Even without the ventilators running, it is drafty. My first idea was cheap so a coalforge. But I cannot install a chimney (not my building). My lot is also at the end of the building. Rolling my equipment 50m to the big entrance to put my forge outside is something I will do max 5 times and than can't be bothered with. Also no shelter outside and I cannot leave my equipment outside or close to the door. No shelter is a biggie, Belgium normally has a lot of rain, I'm made out of sugar so I melt in the rain. Second idea or the idea I have now. Gasforge. But I'm a beginner. So no need for a expensive forge. Don't have the money and also pearls for the pigs. And I want a readymade to start with. To make one, I really want to do, but for now, I want to buy one. Take it out of the box, do minimal things with it and start forging. I don't want to look in 20+ different sites for the materials and ordering them and have the forge ready by the end of the summer or the start of my lessons. So I see 2 choices. Devil Forge DFSW. + cheap (160 euros) + on stock + comes with rigidiger for the isolation + comes with firebrick, to be used as forgebotom (not ideal according the information i find here, but good for closing up the back) + good burner + claim 1370°C (or forgingheat) - small 150 mm x 120 mm x 250 mm (w x h x l) -thin insulation : 1" - no refractory or good bottom (see remark firebrick) so some work needs to be done - open on front and back, so heatwaste Becma neo 2 + big 195 mm x 165 mm x 265 mm (w x h x l) + doors on front and back. Frontdoor with hole for smaller stock + more insulation : 30 mm ceramic fiberboard (or 5mm more than the 1" of the devil) and comes with firebrick as bottom and ready to use. - more expensive (double of the above or 365 euro) - burner has no choke (Nils Ögren had one and tells me that) so gaspressure is the only variable you can play with - they claim only 1200°C (or no forgingheat) Are there people around who have experience with one or both forges? Am I missing an other forge in my (short) list that is better? My location is in my profile, but to be clear (and to make it simple all info in one post). i live in the EU, more specific Belgium even more specific around Ghent. So the fittings that are to be used needs to be found easely here and need to fit the gasbottles (DIN connection). I don't want to wait a couple of weeks for a special couplingpiece just to connect bottle to burner. Thanks

Thomas very nice rattlesnake. The touch with the bottlecaps for the rattle is sweet.

It is a bottle opener? Or do you think the blade will bend/break if you use it to open a bottle?

First post here (account for lurking). I worked till recently at a repair shipyard in holland If you decide to use grease or oil, you cannot paint later again. Paint will continue to come loose. Or you have to blast the steel and degrease. Grease and oil works, but they float on water. I have done numerous repairs on bilges filled with grease (and water). The water rust the steel underfeed the grease. So regular grease and oil are a nogo. You have special products for this, but they all fail. We had a client with inland vessels (fleet of 30+ boats). The dry tanks they conserve with soft coating (special oil). On ships they inspect every 3 months the tanks and re-apply the oil the tanks last 15 years. But they had ships with leaks after 5 years as well, because no inspection and re-applying. Compared with paint, same inspections, ships last over 20+ years, even in the ballast tanks. But again maintenance! Cracks in paint and the same will happen. The dutch use it because it is cheap. And they sell before they have a problem I have seen anchor lockers that are filled up with (used) oils to conserve the chain and locker. And the chain still ends up in the forepeak, because of rust and thrust that the oil is wonder. Again, regular inspection. I assume you have a bilges pump and a bilges well? So you can pump out the moisture? Helps a lot. Coal tar is indeed super. If you still can find it (banned in Europe for almost 10 years now). But it will fail in bilges that come in contact with oils (oils dissolve the stuff, so water get underneath and it starts rusting from underneath). Wood tar paint (brown stuff) is still legal in eu. No experience on metal, they use it to protect wood (think wooden train beams). Things that are well protected with oils or grease are stuff that water almost cannot touch. Think rudders or the nuts on rudders. Best grease i have seen is sheep grease, underneed protection caps on propellers to protect nut and shaft. But it stinks! So no use for you. Did i mention regular inspection and re-applying? Also a good pump and a pump well. Keep in mind with soft coatings. Most shipyards will want you to clean (or pay to let them clean), so they can weld. The stuff burns easy.