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I Forge Iron

Binesman

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Everything posted by Binesman

  1. Not as yummy as you may think. They work great as insulation. They are on par to k series maybe even with a slight edge as to mechanical use. However there are two drawbacks. Ordering by the ton (from us only I dont deal with overseas) my cost is 7.95 per brick compaired to 3.50 for k series so over twice the price. That difference exacerbates as the quantity gets smaller. The second issue is that after about 8 hours of use they get realy brittle. A good bump from a work piece gets you a crack no question however without that "oops" they seem not to crack from thermal cycling (double edge sword for number 2)
  2. I'm not trying to hurt you. I'm simply parroting what I was told. Yes borric acid is a long way off I had not looked up chemical compound. I has asked how to get more and I was told to use the boric acid supliment I will have to ask him about this the next time we speak.
  3. sorry mikey the link was removed. just do a google search for zircon bricks.
  4. spoke with my friend. he said he gets his boron out of boric acid supliment pills. just pop them open and it's pretty much pure boron in order to be FDA safe.
  5. ah the joyous death bird known as a "devil's forge" so no it's not ridgidized and it's not safe. there are pined subjects all over this site on how to treat it and make it safe. you can also buy the stuff to do so from the store button above.
  6. I'm a little confused by your description. however let me say this. You can make your own firebnricks by pouring castable over blanket. Then use those bricks for what ever you are intending.
  7. I'm going to be building a number of forges for an upcoming project. Figured I would get them as good as I can I think my final process will be 2" of blanket that has been ridgidized and then coated in zirconium Cast inside a 1/2" shell of kastolite with a 1/4" innershell of mizzou then coated in a high zirc wash. This build will be for my first ribbon burner forge. but i'll make a 3/4' na to go beside it so I can compare.
  8. More than likely. Bit that level of Tinker is something I don't have time for atm.
  9. I'm not sure if that's true anymore. I've been working with a local refractory and they have made me a Zbrick similar to this sales link removed that I would say is as good if not better than K bricks. they are pricey however so it becomes a cut in both direction issue.
  10. Here's what I will tell you Frosty. I'm an ignorant smart person. I don't have a lot in the way of schooling so my explanation is sometimes WAY off because I use the wrong terms etc. So i'll just tell you what I'm using and what I'm seeing and you can determine whats happening. So I have been playing with a lot of compounds but I have been using the raw compounds so calling it known products is shakey. For instance I have 99.6< Zirconium. we will just call that zircopax (however check the bag I have found some at my local potter in the same pile ranging from 60<zirc) Then I have what I am told is pure boron but again from my understaning it is in essence borax. I also have 99.8< alumina 99.7<kaolin(I know dirt but I think grain structure may matter) then various forms of silica and dry waters. So pure zirconium alone. I mixed to a sour cream like substance and painted on let dry for 4 hours and reapeted a total of 6 times to end in what is about a 1/16" layer. (this is inside a 6 brick forge 4x4.5 chamber using an inline 3/4"NAburner) It formed an almost chalk like coating that when I fired the forge some blew away and some got rubbed off. it did however get the inside of the forge to a dull white heat. So it was working really well. However I could see the flame blowing it off and if I where to work in it I would say after 10 hours it would be like I had done nothing. So I recoated with zirconium then I put on a 1/4" layer of mizzou(I can never spell there xxxx name but I used the named brand not my own mix)I should also say I tried with kastolite30 name brand and my own blend of high alumina refractory. mizzou is by far the best because it is the heaviest and works as an inductive mass better. By combining these 2 in this manner the forge got white not sparkler level but within 50 degrees of sparklers. I then started to figure out a top layer wash. One of my better success before boron came in a mix that was. 95%zirc 5%borax suspended in a dry liquid. paint it on almost like a cool whip then when you fire it the dry water suspends the zirc so more heat can get in to it the borax lets it vitrify. however you end up this very brittle thing that is pretty much useless and shatters. This was the point my friend stepped in with boron. I found that a mix of 95%zirc 5% boron would start to vitrify at what I would call white temp that I guestimate at the 2800to2900 range. The problem was it ran like water.so I could get my floor but not my walls/roof. By adding the kaolin in and some more boron it starts to vitrify around the same temp however it stays to the roof/wall MUCH better I still get dripping but nothing like with out the kaolin. Now as far as putting this mix on the floor of the forge I don't recommend. I found what happened when I wanted to forgeweld is the mix began to vitrify and was like lava on my workpiece. but what was on the walls mostly stayed. This forge will now get to the point of white that it hurts to look at. I've not had a gas forge get there before. I don't know if that's uncommon or if my forges have just always sucked <shrug> All I do know is that I have to wear welders goggles to forge weld now.
  11. Your chemical knowledge is probably far greater then mine. Boron powder was something recommended to me by an old friend who was a pottery instructor. He provided me with pure boron powder. My understanding is that it is in essence what borax is made of. it is working as a flux and allowing it to vitrify around 2900F
  12. So I have been playing with different mixtures etc. Nothing large scale yet I have a lot of irons in the fire right now. however the best combination I have found so far. Pure zircopax put on 5 to 6 layers letting each layer dry for at least 6 hours before putting on the next layer. then put on a 1/4' layer of dense refractory (I have been using a mizzou) then put on a single coat of 60%zircopax30%kaolin10%boron(this allows the zirconium to actually vitrify). I've been putting this on top of firebricks and seeing what worked better to heat mats. This formula got me roughly 14% faster to temp heat. These numbers are all anecdotal I did not do any scientific testing. As for your question to how mizzou holds up to flux. I see little difference between it and kastolite. however the thermal mass is a lot higher.
  13. give me some time frosty. I'm working on a project that is going to require me to build a number of forges over the next few months. No reason I can't throw down some zircopax under a layer of kastolite on one of them. unless someone else gets to it sooner. Actualy I think I will use mizou it is more of a heatsink. Is there a better 3k refractory for this purpose? I think mizou is the most dense I've used.
  14. I've been playing with a lot of compounds lately apparently I mixed one up. sorry bout that. Still intrigued about an IR under an induction type refractory
  15. right alumina bubble refractory. good call mikey. I'm not familiar enough with the science. what will that do as far as refractory ability? also what will do that as far as temp tolerance? Also I'm guessing those bubbles melt upon firing and are just used to create air pockets to help with the refractory. If that's all it's for it's not important to my use. If that somehow makes it so it's heat tolerance does not reach 3k what can I do? Would suspending it in a dry liquid work? That should create the same kind of bubble structure upon firing.
  16. I'm doing a project that kastolite would be perfect for but I only have about a lb left and that's not enough. I want to get this done today so here's a list of products I do have on hand what can I mix to make up some kastolite. I have a Laguna quick set mortar that is 50% alumina 50% silica I also have abrasive alumina oxide powder. Now in theory if I add alumina oxide to the laguna to reach a 70 30 mix I should have kastolite. the question is do I calculate ratio by weight or by volume? if that doesn't work I have all kinds of other things on hand what can I do to get a 3000+ alumina refractory?
  17. That's a 3/4" burner so 1" hole. As for how far in with that hard brick id say as little as possable.
  18. I am intrigued by the potential but I don't have time to test it. If you put a nice zirconium glaze and heat it to truly glaze. then covered it in a dense refractory designed to absorb heat and transfer by induction if you could in theory end up with a very hot forge.
  19. That's a nice pile of fun. Remember the moto of "in rust with trust" with unkown metal, beyond that you can learn a lot for a little when using it.
  20. frosty knows the chems better than I could ever dream so go get some kitty litter and have your boy make a set of tongs.
  21. Matrikote is just dirty itc100 so not much. itc 100 99.4<%zirconium. Matrikote90 70<%zirconium+dirt.but in theory if you were to put a castable on top of it that worked by induction heat (like misou) it may make a difference. not sure it's enough to make it worth it. but <shrug> maybe it will far exceed my expectations.
  22. By all means use what you got while you wait on what you ordered. the bricks you show will eventualy crumble to dust a few things you can do to extend there life while waiting on the new bricks and using these. Purchase a furnace cement. Imperial is the brand you can get at most big box retailers. It's bout 5 a pint. you will need at least two pints. Be sure you get the black paste and not the mortar mix. spread it on and let it dry. It's crap as a kiln wash but it works as a bonding agent for about 10 hours of run time before it crumbles to dust.
  23. one of the best sources I have found in my area for Anvil Shaped Objects. Are water cutting companies. I just picked up a 18" long 6" diameter 4140 drop for $30.
  24. are they hard or soft? if you can dig your thumb nail they are probably okay. however at only 2k they are going to crumble to nothingness quickly morgan k26 (IFI sales them on there sales page that's new haven't been on here in a year or two) hold up better then most brands because of there mix and the 2600 rating makes them a much better choice. Also IFI has them for 7.50 so you save 15 over my estimate. the burner is the hardest part to make yourself. I recommend buying that until you understand the science. look on etsy for a 3/4" burner and make sure the seller has good reviews. If you do that you will be fine. The rest you can get a lot cheaper then buying it and "making" it realy doesn't take much.
  25. I don't mean to argue. every person and every situation is unique. All i'm saying is there are ways around any problem and the people here are happy to help you find those ways. If you want to buy then go for it. As for the diamondback forge. Yes it will work. is it what I would call a good forge? NO. heres why. Interior dimensions are 13 1/2" L x 7 1/8" W x 3 1/2" H that means 336 cubic inches. A single 3/4" burner can get that to forge welding temp if everything is built properly. now because of the length I understanding using 2 burners. However if "I were the one making it" I would either make it 18 inches so you get better affect from having two burners or cut it down to 10 inche's and a single burner to save on cost/retail And as to firebricks falling apart it isnt an issue if you use kastolite and matrikote and proper maintenance. The forge on the bottom has seen about 60 hours of run time
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