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I Forge Iron

coops1911

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    Comox, British Columbia

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  1. Lately I have been having a bit of trouble getting the burner to light reliably, once warmed up it is mostly fine but the flame will sometimes go from a light blue flame 3" in length to a darker blue shorter ( 1.5"-2") flame, without touching the regulator.. Will see if making a wind/exhaust screen makes an improvement. also going to check the gas jet orifice to make sure it isn't partially plugged.
  2. Made my first knife from a old railroad spike, I think it turned out OK......lots of room for improvement. Thank you guys for all the info.
  3. that's good, i know the forge itself needs more work.....having a tough time sourcing fire brick and kiln tiles locally.
  4. so Initially I had a 0.035 mig tip for the gas jet, found a .025 mig tip and wanted to give that a go. I opened up the .025 to about .030 so #67 dill size i believe. using the mig tip cleaners as a guide. Seems to have a more stable flame now that is a tad less rich, maybe getting the forge a bit hotter.
  5. yea thats what it says but everyone does it this way, you need a hard layer that wont get poked through when working with the metal. just matrikote over kaowool would not stand up long term.
  6. just wear a mask while firing the ridgidizer its not a lengthy process.
  7. most people seem to go with 1/2 inch of kast o lite. What i did regarding the kaowool was to make sure it is ridgidized first and that there were no exposed fibre ( everything under Kast o lite) and make sure there is no where the work is going to be banging fibers loose.
  8. Was asked to post my experience with Matrikote (wayne spells it with a "e" but company uses "a"), so far with my limited experience I would say its a good product. Again though I havent done side by side testing to know and have never used plistex either. I started trying to apply it with a foam brush but thought it was withholding a lot of the fine particles in the mixture so I switched to a restaurant squeeze bottle and proceeded to squirt it in the inside of the forge, I then managed to maneuver the forge in a way as to coat the inside with the residual to get an even coat. I do find that before and after coating it takes a little longer to heat up but once it does it is much more evenly distributed heat and stays hotter for much longer after turning off the gas,. It also does a good job of hardening ceramic wool, I had some exposed kaowool around the edge on the forge opening and after coating with the matrikote it has sealed the kaowool up pretty good and hardens similar to plaster of paris I suppose. Link to my thread: Here is a short video with the effects ( not mine)
  9. Made some more progress. got it coated with the metrikote. not sure how i'm going to finish the floor though, took about 6 spray paint lids full of kitty litter to level it off, thinking that's quite a bit more mass that needs to be heated. probably better to get 4 little stands and put a kiln shelf on those?
  10. sounds like the 6# density = 2300f the 8 # is better at 2600f
  11. May be worth checking to see if there is anywhere that builds pizza ovens or foundrys, they will know where to get ceramic wool.
  12. could maybe rig the blower on a dimmer switch, depending on the type of motor used.
  13. could also use a old air compressor, they are plentiful at scrap metal places and come in many different sizes.
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