Irondragon ForgeClay Works

The finished product is stunning.

Thomas&Betts is still in business and has that press listed on their web site. Says operating pressure is 10,000 psi listed as the crimping head, so I don't think the hydraulics come with it. The hydraulic pump is listed separately. They also have a technical support & section. If the one you are looking at has the pump & controls, like Frosty said it would be worth a closer look & offer.

I like my Bates side zipper leather boots, easy on and off and very comfortable for long wearing.

I trust Google for some things and I'm a lot older than you. My generation is WWII era. A trick to use here is to add iforgeiron to your search term it will bring all the threads up, talk about information overload.

The opening Frosty mentioned is the front of the forge (I think). If you put some fire bricks as doors at both ends to close it up enough to just put the stock in, you should see an improvement. Sorta like this.

I have used a commercial heat gun to warm both anvils when it's pretty cold out. However we don't experience the same cold as folks in the northern latitudes. Zero degrees F is unusual here but I still warm the anvils so they don't draw the heat from the stock when starting to hammer.

I think this is his logon. https://www.iforgeiron.com/profile/32327-sanderson-iron/

Look up (Google) Ward Burner Systems. They list them under Orifice Charts & Plugs. It isn't allowed to put in a link to commercial sites.

Have you tried his facebook page? He is a member here, send him a PM.

You need a smaller orifice for the Gaco MR-750 burner. They are available at most propane suppliers. That is the same burner we used in our forge which is smaller than the one he built. Here is a thread to our build with the orifice sizes I tried until I hit on the right size. Sadly a lot of the pictures were lost when Photobucket dumped tinypic but the text is still there. 20 pound propane tank forge in progress - Gas Forges - I Forge Iron

Not without pictures. With them njanvilman can give you a pretty good idea of when it was made.

When we were building the house, I was using a steel shaft leather handle Estwing framing hammer. One day we were up on the roof laying the decking and I commented that my elbow and shoulder were bothering me. The old carpenter who was the foreman on the crew said "let me see your hammer". He then threw it as far as he could out into the woods. Then he went to his tool box and gave me a hickory handled framing hammer (don't remember the brand) and with in a couple of hours the pain was reduced and the next day it was gone. Sold me on wood handles right then & there. I still have that hamme

"I can't move my arms" comes to mind (From the Christmas Story movie).

Welcome aboard. It would be helpful to know where in the world you are located. Here in the U.S. what you want to make is called a drift. punches usually have a sharp point, where drifts have a flat point to drive out pins. Just a matter of semantics really. I make most of my drifts & punches out of 4130 or 4140 steel or spring steel like coil springs from automobiles or garage door springs for the smaller one's and leave them normalized. For center punches and chisels, I quench in oil and temper them to straw or blue. This thread may help you out. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topi

Very nice looking gun hooks. After finishing them, line the inside with some soft leather to prevent scratching the rifle.