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We generate about 300gallons of waste oil a year.. I believe the old oil forges use a #2 fuel oil.. Wish I could have talked with one of the guys in the know. The old forges would reach welding temperature pretty easily.. Better than propane or LP.. Once I get the shop up I'll investigate further... I have a lack of time to devote to a project like this now..

If you are using a gas forge you should be a little careful of having the vise mounted to the flame that supports the forge.. As you bang on the vise it will transfer some of the vibration to the forge and can break and dislodge your liner.. On a coal forge it doesn't matter.. A old fashioned truck or car rim will work.. Just add either a wood or metal tube and plate and bolt it down.. Though you might not feel your smithing skills are up to par, as you advance you will be thankful to have your equipment properly mounted and not having to do it again.. Both saves time and money in the long run.. Wasting your time chasing a vise around will detract from the quality of work.. Good equipment properly mounted makes a world of difference especially in the beginning.. As your skill set improves, one can adapt more easily to unfamiliar or less than ideal situations and still make a top notch product because they have a good base line skill set..

Your welcome.. Glad it worked out for you.. That is so funny.. Haven't figured out way.. Right side up on the computer.. Huh.. Thanks.. That's cute.. If you use if for a shovel handle be sure and make your shovel the same width as the bottom of the firepot..

I think it's a personal undertaking.. I've always wanted to build a 10" one.. do I need a 10" forged leg vise.. NO.. But it would be cool.. for some reason Large vises have a coolness factor.. Everybody who see's one always says" Boy where did you find that one"? how much does it weigh? And then I'd love to have one that big.. I have attached pictures of the support bosses of the main leg with the joints clearly seen.. You can see the taper from top to bottom.. first few are the 8" columbian, next is a generic 4.5" I use both in the trailer and the little one gets used more and is mounted right on the forge.. The next are of the (3) extra for the school once up and running and range from 5.5" for 2 of them and 6" for the other one.. All tapered bosses.. On the 8.5" model I have also shown where the bosses don't align and is the reason it needs a rebuild.. Not sure if you can see in the photo but it's all clamped together to keep everything straight for when it goes into the forge to redress the joint area.. This information isn't well known and is the reason I shared it.. The new style leg vises don't have a tapered bolt or tapered bosses and will last probably a lifetime of use.. I just know that them old anvil and vise makers had it figured out so I try to emulate what they did..

Traditional leg vises use several different technologies to keep the jaws in line.. First is the bottom pivot is actually tapered.. Secondly the side plate and the bottom plate on the vise jaw are has the exact taper as the 2 side plates.. This is actually how the vises last so long even in smaller lighter sizes.. basically the bottom mount to the moving arm acts as a tapered seat with the bolt acting as a way to keep load on one side of the bosses while not loaded.. On vise size.. It comes down to what you are making.. If you look at the statistics most vises are in the 5" and down range.. Rarer are the 6" and up.. As you increase jaw width you also increase thickness.. If you are making 20lbs leaf scrolls then a larger vise would offer greater support to the forged mass.. If you are making knives then the added size can get in the way.. If you are making colonial style hardware a vise that is 6" wide with narrow jaw faces will serve you the best as then you can run hinges down the side of the vise and the hinge barrel will have good support where on a 5" jaw the hinge would only be partially supported.. So, be careful making a vise to big unless you know what the intended purpose will be.. I've attached a bolt made for a 8.5" jawed vise.. the jaw thickness is just over 1" perfect for hardware, and filing.. this vise still needs to have the joint rehabbed.. You can see where the bolt was missing the nut as it had been replaced at some point in history with a straight bolt which messed the joint up completely..

Thanks.. Not that I know of.. so maybe original.. :).. I have a hard time claiming ownership of any ideas in Blacksmithing (or any hammer trades) as the trade is several thousand years old and there have been lots of smart people many times over.. Lots of ideas simply have been forgotten.. Sorry about the pictures.. The pictures are right side up on my computer but when i upload them they flip.

I think so.. I came up with it back in 87.. No sure if there are any "New" ideas or not..

yes, but for finger loop... pointer finger goes into the hole.. Also when you need to scoop stuff out of the firepot you stick your finger through the loop and then just lift your hand.. It matches the same angle as the side of the firepot and then you can just lower your hand till the handle is back in your hand and scoop it out..

Nice shop.. Looks likes a small summer house..

The question you pose depends on how much stuff (weight) you want to move.. Also what do you want the vise capable of doing.. Hitting it with a 6lb hammer, pulling a 1/2"X2" X 48" over to bend it and make a square edge.. Or just to hold for finish filing, maybe 1/2" R, etc, etc.. so more information would help give better examples.. I've demo'd for over 30 years.. Moved my fair share of equipement,

While I am happy to make the tools I know from long ago that anything donated to a group becomes the responsibility of the group.. If someone decides that they must have it and take it home with them.. Then they must need it and I'm OK with that.. Ideally I made them to show there are more than just bent around and good to use.. If they really have to have it rather than make their own then maybe at some point the tool will inspire them to move into making quality tools.. It took me years to figure out what handles work and which ones don't.. If I spend 8hr at the shop, and 75% of it is spent at the forge, waiting on metal then having good tools to me is just as important as the anvil, anvil height, hammers, forge height etc, etc.. Anything that makes the day easier.. I actually would love to sponsor a teaching day on forge tool making and then have everybody donate their time and give the stuff made to the club. So, if the club wants to paint the handles then it's up to them. Besides that they are 2 nice to paint.. No problem.. I get it all the time.. I love the fact there are more of us girls getting out there.. 4 female farriers in my area.. Still not many female blacksmiths though.. I've thorougly enjoyed our conversation.. It is very rare to have a farrier who is happy about the work and about forging real items besides shoes.. I've made 50% of my farrier tools.. I'll post up another thread on farrier tools if you'd like.. Got one shovel done with the pattern I prefer.. Here is 1.. I will make 3 more.. But here is the start's..

Its' actually Mam.. But not to be picky.. Here's a few pic's of the ones I did first thing this morning.. First is a Midget who had terribly disfigured feet and was walking on the side of her fetlock joints.. the bottom of the hoof was completely sideways and lateral to the ground.. Both on her right side.. Front and rear.. Shes doing very well now and is walking properly on both sides though there is bone deformities on both front and rear.. She gets trimmed every 3 weeks. And a Mini who had foundered really bad and I was called in to do a rescue.. He has made a near 90% recovery.. this will be my 2nd fall working on him and each fall he has had a setback( I think he is eating leaves) this guy is a stallion and he absolutely miserable the first time I met him.. he stands perfect with no lead or halter now.. Pretty excellent.. In the picture you can see he's sticking his tongue out..

Nice.. Great pictures.. Yup, my kind of people.. Show um a little respect and they give back in spades.. Appi's are my favorite.. They have learned me some of the most important lessons I could have learned as a farrier.. Main lesson: I work with them, they don't work for me. Thats the simplest way to explain it though they certainly do work... It's the order or expression.. I have a few old guys who can barely get their feet off the ground.. They put their hearts into getting their feet as high as they can, and I thank them for it.. Much love.. More than a few fall asleep when I'm working.. Approved position is where ever the horse is comfortable.. Thanks for the pictures..

If I am ever in the area I'd love to stop by and see you work.. You sound like my kind of people.. We have 3 horses.. More horses today than any other time in history in the USA..

The questions you asked sounded like you were looking for information on it to sell it.. If you are looking for the information for yourself because you groove on it. Then it's a whole different story.. If this is the case.. then let it be known you want to use this and it's not for sale. And then does anybody have suggestions on how to line it for use...

It is something.. it's a nice old forge that if it could speak would tell of a birth a life and now maybe a new chance at helping someone else fulfill their desire to heat metal and bang on it.. or it might become a plant holder which to me is a death sentence. ... If you are looking to sell it put 100.00 on it and be willing to take less.. or find a local blacksmith organization and see if they want it..

It's all good.. it's a group conversation.. Besides that.. I'm slow on the uptake.. Nice.. I have much respect for you.. Much tougher than I am.. The People are lucky to have you.. Clips also? Heel caulks? Here in the Northeast.. there are just about more farriers then there are horses.. Joking mind you, When I started there were maybe 125 in Mass.. You could be on the road for days and never see another shoeing rig.. Now I see other rigs all the time.. Within 20min of driving time I can hit 5 different farriers Homes..

The hard facing welding rod is the best suggestion.. Stainless is very soft.. 304,308,316,409 all soft... It can be hard faced.. It also does have a tendency to work harden some..

Ah, not quite sure what you mean.. But, just to be clear.. a riding heel is a western style of riding boot with a slanted tapered heel usually designed for the wearing of spurs..

God bless you.. Phew.. Your a man after my own heart.. I show up in heels and the owners want to go for drinks instead of shoeing.. Not that you have to answer as it's a personal question but what are you charging for a New set of size 7's with borium.. Fronts or all 4? I stay away from drafts unless the people have stocks.. I do a ton of mini's now.. a few miniature donkeys and a bunch of show horses and pleasure, both western and english. My specialty is barefoot though started about 20 years ago.. I ran into the guy I apprenticed with this past spring with his new apprentice after not seeing him for 15 years.. 2nd thing out of his mouth was" So I heard you are a barefooter now".. YUP.. Next words" You are such a loser" Why are you wasting your talents with barefoot as you are the finest shoe shaper I've ever known".. Was the proudest moment of my life.. :).. Thankful everyday he shared his gift with me. I learned so much those 3 years and then I learned a wheelbarrow more the next 5.. By the way.. There is a reason you don't see a lot of old aged, football players, boxers. sumo wrestlers. Kickboxers in the professional capacity.. It isn't because they aren't very well skilled.. It's because you simply can't do as much since ya just get slower.. 27 years this year.. as a full time Farrier.. 38 year forging metal.. I am always amazed how old I am getting.. Used to take me 5-8 minutes to trim all 4 feet on say a Morgan or Q horse with size 1 feet or even size 2 feet.. Now it's 10-15min per horse..

Which one? I'm tall for a farrier at 5'11" and as a farrier the shorter the better.. I love what I do with horses and it very rewarding, especially when you take a lame horse and get them healthy again.. and horses are awesome and honest. Some of the best to hang out with and happy to call all my friend..But it isn't for the faint at heart.. There are just easier ways to make a living..

Thats funny.. Before, during and after my 3 year apprenticeship I never thought I would be a farrier either. I did it to add to the title of " General Blacksmith" (ooh, look at me I can do it all).. here i am 27 year later.. Smithing.. all forms of it are far easier than working with sharp tools, slippery feet and awnry horses.. Wresting with a 400+lbs anvil everyday.. Give it a try.. :).. I love my job.. Just not the work.. Or is it the other way around.. I love my work, just not my job??? Guess it depends on the day.. Mind you for the most part. I work on good horses which stand very well.. Usually ground tied, but just the same its a very abusive job simply from position under the horse, the weight you have to carry, the knees being bent deeply, and the back from being all hunched over.. .

first off. this is probably located in the wrong area.. but since I'm here.. It' worth is only what someone is willing to pay for it.. it's not in good condition.. The forge pan is cracked, the tuyere is split apart.. Basically as it sits now it is not usable.. It would need a lot of work.. It was originally designed to work with clay as the forge liner. This was more than likely an Agricultural model vs used in a full time blacksmith shop.. Though it has some size to it so maybe a combination of both though back then most were running brick forges.. I'm sure someone will be along who might have more info.. Buffalo forge I have quite a bit of info on so this isn't in my files..

its like anything the human body is only designed for so many cycles.. Each person has their own limits.. I started smithing at age 10.. by age 16 I dropped out of school because I didn't fit in. wasn't challenged enough. etc, etc.. Anyhow, by the age of 17 I had started forging a lot.. I was in search of knowledge and worked constantly to get better at forging.. Real forging not just mushing iron.. 10+ hours a day as long as I had coal.. I did professional smithing for 8 years.. (professional = making a living full time) i used to spend 10-14hrs a day standing at the anvil forging steel into anything and everything.. Anyhow, I got burnt out.. People Lost vision. I took off 10 years of forging iron. My shoulders and elbows hurt about 2 years after closing up shop though I was still hammering/shaping horse shoes.. The only time my shoulders, elbows and wrists feel any good is after a few days of smithing.. Real forging.. then I can actually raise my arms above my head with full joint rotation.. So, as to anvil height.. It's what works for that person but most people simply get locked into what the anvil is resting on and then it stays that way for 20 years.. Back before I got lazy (when I was smithing full time in my 20's.) I was far from lazy and kept adjusting the anvil height (and leave it that way for months) till I found worked best overall and put that into my main anvil.. The sledging anvil was about 3" shorter in height.. Now with how the anvil and stand are mounted in the trailer I can adjust height both with floor height and I have extra guides on the stand so I can loosen the bolts, slip wood boards underneath and change the height up to 3".. I get 6" usable adjustment but changing floor height so this is 9" of total adjustment.. Perfect for a new student who is looking for the right height.. Which again changes depending on type, and size of materials.. Because of the amount of time I have forging and working moving metal I can tell almost instantly if I like the anvil height or not.. But this also applies to forge, blower and vise height.. Which are just as important. Also power hammer height which most we designed around people born in the 1800's and were much shorter than people today for the most part..

NICE.. That will make a great anvil like object.. Looking forwards to seeing it mounted.. The composite wood bases would work perfectly..