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if you are a newbie to forge welding and Damascus.. You best bet is to start with a blade made only from one kind of material.. Get down how to do this then move into pattern welded blades..

now that was a great find..How neat is that.. Pretty amazing to think they saw the change coming and instead of fighting it they made coach bodies for cars.. My grand parents had a Studebaker when I was young.. What a tank.. I remember going out in a snow storm with it.. No I have not verified they are steel.. Just going from previous experience with this size axle.. If at some point I decide to use them for tools I will go through the process of determining material.. From the rust pattern it shows it to be carbon steels but then again I did not verify.. that really is one very awesome axle to find.. .. did /was this carriage in a fire? Looks like charcoal wood behind it.. Or the Japanese black finally let go..

Not really.. I mean it's always nice to stumble into a wrought iron wagon wheel hoop sitting the middle of the woods somewhere.. But its more the treasure hunt than anything else.. I used to have literally a ton of the stuff but gave it away when I moved out of the old shop.. Now it's more a collection process to rebuild the stash some.. The wagon parts are tough because I won't repurpose any of the seat backs or irons for the buggy proper.. So I will basically clean them up and hang them from the wall.. The axles were made from medium or high carbon and are excellent for tools.. the springs same deal., but hate to really do anything with the old pieces.. I certainly wouldn't refuse a few heavy wrought iron axles or heavy hauler tire hoops..

I have an electrical etcher on the DoAll bandsaw.. ?????

No, the tires were just small hoops from a carriage vs heavy wagon or hauler... It looks like they were light enough that it may have even been a sulky.. I was hoping to find some tires from a heavy wagon or hauler.. It wasn't a motorized coach.. The mounts for the hames (spelling) tongue were there..

That's the one I want.. It seems like the European vises and anvils are always bigger than stuff in the USA.. Over there the Quantity of anvils over 300lbs is amazing where here it's harder to find then over 300.. Here an 8" vise is hard to find.. Where over there it seems to be more common place.. Makes me think they were doing a lot of heavy blacksmithing vs here..

Leave them as be.. With enough use they will become smooth.. They were all serrated when new.. some have a waffle pattern, some checkering and some with serrations.. The smoothness or lack of smoothness just shows the use/life of the vise..

Nice vise.. I have an older model of the 8" Columbian.. They make a really nice product.. Congrats.. do you have it mounted up yet?

Are you going to clean it up with a new coat of paint?

It comes down to how much you want it and how good of shape it's in.. I paid 600.00 for a nicely used 8" columbian... and the same for an 8.5" un named vise.. I also have 4 others in the 6" range that I paid between 50.00 and 75.00 for.. If everything is in good shape, the screw is good, nothing is missing " it becomes what is the value to you".. Are they easy to find and plentiful in your area? Can you talk the guy down some? it looks like a Columbian and they make a very good vise.. If it's a 6" or larger I'd buy it if the screw was in good shape.. A vise like that will last several generations so really the decision becomes what is the value to you..

Great info.. My friend does composite bowl turnings and is where I got the wood from.. He had a whole bunch of different types.. There was a really nice cherry piece with a cloud type pattern, some Black walnut, rose wood, yellow wood.. But the Bocote struck me as the right amount of contrast.. LOL.. I don't have a touch mark for cold work. They all need to be applied to hot metal... Only thing I can come up with is to burn it into the handle????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Thanks. The knife blade itself is the colonial feature and correct design for the same time frame the spoon and fork portray.. I do get it and now thinking about it, it would have been neat to have the same handle feature with the spine in the middle of both sides with the rat tail handle.. I was in a period correctness thing at the time.. (Designs I like in colonial blades that would be fitting was my thought process and this design came to me bright and clear not only that it's a rarer design of blade).. Not a fan of metal handles on knives, and other than the wood, the design is period correct.. I was going to make the handle more coffin shaped but Who ever buys it I want to use it and the coffin handle unless well rounded isn't that comfortable.. I do see your point though.. Nice thing about being a blacksmith.. I can just make another one.. You stuck a seed in my brain now.. I may have to change the title to " The knife that might have been part of a set".. LOL.. Argh... i'm completely torn now.. Where were you when I was in the designing phase??? Since the moose bone was a complete bone and not disinfected or aged and when I cut off a piece there was still marrow inside (it was supposed to have died last fall) I decided I didn't want to go through the hassle.. Not only that while some people would think it's neat others would be always worried the moose was shot for the bone.. And lastly just to much white or silver.. . I wanted to mute or break up all the bright colors and the only other way I was going to achieve that was with an inlay or a change in wood material. Sorry if the moose bone was a key feature of interest for you and it didn't get used.. That's it.. Thanks..

Got the knife finished that goes with the Fork and spoon set today and the "How to' video is in the editing stage.. All processes were done by hand except for the pin holes and this was done with a hand gear drill.. First knife made in 20 years, few mistakes but overall "still a work in progress".... Roughly 8hrs to complete.. I used epoxy vs horse glue.. The wood was picked because of the contrast (Bokuuta) I believe it's called.. The drawknife would only pull fine shavings as it is very hard wood.. Brass pins..

Thanks for the high praise.. It really helps to get feedback.. I hope to continue on this path and continue to offer content which is helpful.. Again, thanks for the feedback.. My appreciated.. Thanks for the follow up here and on the video.. The straight 2D is slightly cleaner.. Unless you have a true 3D TV then it's pretty amazing to watch the 3D action.. One factor which I have noticed is I like to watch the 2D version not the Youtube 3D converted to 2D as you mentioned as it does take out some of the details.. The side by side format is for 3D tvs and VR gear and offers the best quality.. There are a few of the videos all " How To's" some are a little bit more time consuming.. There is one on S hooks, and nail making but you need a Nail header for the nails.. There is a video on that also but it's pretty labor intensive just starting out.. Mind you if you watch the video a time or 2 all the information is there on getting to a working product. Thanks..

Yes, nice piece of work..

I agree if that is what you are trying to accomplish.. If you are one who" Is into making items that can be represented as " having the right patination" for a given era. or wear and selling the items as originals or reproductions. More power to you. Same with Textured finishes, etc, etc.. It becomes what the person whom made the item is looking to do.. If you go to my pictures page you will see many different finishes from filed, to raw, to waxed, to oiled to polished.. some latches got nothing nor ever touched with a file.. Where back in the good old days latches were nearly always finished with file.. If you look at any items from the time frames(1550-1940's) I generally have interest in.. The finish work was superb, dropped off on a larger scale closer to modern MFG times.... Surgical tools, saws, hand saws, draw knives.. Anvils, vises, etc, etc.. My point was/is.. ideally it comes down to how you feel about what it is you are making and the level of finish.. I feel much like Yellin.. I strive for perfection in each and every thing I make.. It's what keeps me in search of refining my skill set.. As my skills get better so does speed.. So does capability in size of materials being worked up to a certain limit.. If someone is simply happy with the progress they have achieved then more power to them.. I have never been a fan of textured finishes,, Yet they have there place in modern design.. I've seen many outstanding modern produced artistic items.. A delight to see.. But it's not my thing.. Then again.. I would consider myself more a trades smith then an artist.. Beauty in functionality to me is outstanding.. My goal is to be the best Blacksmith I can be.. My work will eventually show that.. I figure I have another 30year.. When to stop working on an item is when you no longer need to.

I was reading in a recent mag where Yellin in an interview said something in line with this discussion.. (all paraphrased) He was asked something like" How do you know when something is done/finished" He answered the question " Something is finished when it no longer needed to have anything done to make it complete".. Other than that it is " A work in progress" He then went on to say" A smith who has achieved the level to know when it is completed, also amougnst his peers" is a smith worth having.. A smith who believes his work is finished but still shows it needing further work or refinement should not call it finished " But a work in progress".. I find this to be true.. When I make something I always know where the flaws are or where something could be done better.. This ideology of Yellin has plagued me since the day I picked up the hammer.. When I work for money sometimes it becomes " I will work the item till I can't afford to lose any more money" and it's "good enough" and no one will know but me.. Then there is the stuff I make with love or spirit.. An there is no such thing as " good enough",, and the money (since there is none") doesn't matter. These are those rare days where I am willing to open my cosmic chakras and to make or produce or refine till it no longer "needs" anything from me.. ( head nodding) Now that I don't work for money per say.. "I do take on jobs but only the jobs I want" If I start out and it's not going the way I want.. I will throw it in the scrap bin.. Ah, here is the kicker.. Now after 30+ years of doing this.. I know right away what kind of day it will be at the forge, I know it from the moment I take the first hammer swing.. I also know how to fix it.. And change that day.. I also know now that I can do better.. LOL.. It's funny because I used to be pretty good.. But now I have the potential to be even better. Just not as fast.... So, we keep talking about when is it good enough.. Well the real question to me is " What flaws are acceptable" Is a cold shut acceptable? Is a hammer mark acceptable? Is a line being out of place compared to all the rest acceptable? I find now that after all this time.. things are less acceptable because I understand the potential for the item not " Needing" anything from me.. " Then it is finished"..

Hey, I don't want it to be to easy.. Thanks JHCC.

20 years ago finding the right stuff for fireplace screens was a night mare around here.. Thanks for the info..

I really like the design aspect... Nicely executed.. Where did you order the fireplace screening from? What did you ask for?

I really like the copper inlay work..

Here are a few more.. Not sure how much you want me to load this thread up with. There must be 50 different designs in the archives.. And Yes, LOL.. I do have a handle on a lot of things.. Hot rasp handle, White oak, wrought iron furrell..

Glenn, you just wanted me to flood the forum..

Thanks Frank.. Very nice of you to say.. Thanks.. IIRC 1018 CR 1/4X5/8X11 and 1/8X1.5 x 4.5" All material or "roughly for length.. In all the videos materials are listed.. I've got a memory like a sieve.. I keep meaning to include forge times but forget..

Pictures are worth a thousand words anytime iron work is involved..