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Love the googley eyes as long as you can see them.. The extra mass or weight the sand will add is always welcome in my book.. As for anvil ring and the sound of the stand.. If you bolt the 2 together solidly they will usually discharge the sound more quickly as the anvil and stand will vibrate at a different rate.. The key here is they really need to be bolted solidly together.. I found with the anvil mounts I made back in the 90s when bolted to the stump it did quite the anvil some but not nearly as much as when I moved to a fabricated stand and bolted the stand and anvil together.. Even the new Peddy has just the faintest ring but with it mounted loosely on a stump I'm sure my ears would die..

Ah, while this split thing can work.. One has to be careful about forge welding between a split.. Reason is, if you have 2 different materials and they are 2 different thicknesses you can actually split out the middle thinner section as you weld it together.. This is doubley so with a piece that is inserted between.. So just keep this in mind when you split it and then weld it together.. The pieces on the sides will have a tendency to want to push into the middle piece and if the middle piece is to thin it will create a shear point.. If you want to do this successfully thin each leg and keep them wide as the spike body and then thin them out so they are slightly less than half the thickness of the steel you want to weld in.. If the middle steel is 1/4 inch than each leg should be about 0.062... There are ways around this but it get a little hard to explain and deals with different scarf designs.. This will also help with some of the losses from the weld itself..

I dislike power tools.. Just about all power tools.. While I am good at using them and they speed up production and in my normal run of the mill fabrication and welding business as well as the machinist side of it I still like hand tools.. For me I prefer hand work all the way.. (I consider a power hammer a hand tool) Mind you I have been at it a really long time so the use of files, and water stones for finished and the use of sand papers and such are pretty much ingrained.. I almost don't even think about what I am doing.. Power tools on the other hand I have to always be careful about removing to much material.. As I have gotten older it has gotten to the point where I can't stand in one position as I polish a 48" sword blade with water stones the way I used to and the elbows certainly don't like that pressure stroke or the 500th pressure stroke.. Here are a few blades I dragged out, (sword and kitchen knife were made in 1990)all hand done and I'm not a finish to the 9's kind of person as I like good usable items the sword used to have a high polish (2000grit) on it but its a reject.(the proportions of off slightly).. Just have to be durable and keep a good edge kind of thing.. The knife in image 2 was just ready to go for heat treatment.. Blade is 12.5" long.. 1hr 30minutes forge time and 1hr to get to this point.. Anyhow. I prefer doing everything by hand.. Sadly if it's my own stuff I get to lavish time on it. but for sales items everything has to be finished ASAP..

Lou I like it.. How big is the section of tube? Little bummed it wasn't filled with sand but it's my bad.. I get moving stuff around..

A lot of Farriers rasps are case hardened now.. Pferred hoof planes for sure. Some are medium carbon and then case hardened.. most rasps today made by any top names will forge and even forge weld like butter and can be used to good merit in many projects.. The old farrier rasps were made of real tool steel( definition: A steel used to work other steels cold).. Or I should say real high carbon steel.. These need to be forge welded with kid gloves.. You can tell the difference as these old ones are much thicker than the modern ones.. Most are a 1/4" thick or thicker.. I've used many different brands.. Pferred, Heller, Belotta, Save egde, as well as a few off name brands over the years.. Save edge are pretty consistent in the steel, but you can tell as the machines start getting worn as the rasps just don't cut as well.. Pferred hoof planes work wonders when brand new but since they are case hardened as soon as you run through some grit they get really dull quickly after that.. They used to be solid steel but would break to easily so they switched to case hardening..

Brilliant..

best bet is to just fill the holes and mount externally.. From people who have done this kind of thing in the past and regretted it..

Nice.. Years ago it was so uncommon to see another woman anywhere in the trades.. Blacksmithing, welding, bladesmithing.. just so rare.. I love that we are getting other there more and showing what we can do.. On the stand I hope it's more weld than grind.. I always find its so much easier to weld than to grind..

Boy, this thread ended up in a lot different direction.. LOL.. Anvil stands, Boys,, Anvil stands.

The chain wrapped around the anvil the way I remember it is this: At night the smith could work and it would throw shadows around the forge. (IE dancing devils) It was said if the anvil wasn't chained down the devil would come around and snatch it.. I think the story was told to keep the anvil safe from thieves and also to play on children's minds..

You guys are hitting on another hobby of mine.. I have maybe 100 pair of shoes.. I never get to wear.. But just for that once every 3 years I want to have just the right pair of heels..

You betcha.. I was laughing thinking that is another way to adjust anvil height.. Just change from flats, to low heel, mid and high 6" heels..

Funny right.. If I could somehow keep from getting hot scale in them, I'd be there..

I was curious as I have for years worked on cars and trucks.. I have seen where oil and sand have eaten helped to eat away steel as oils can be hydroscopic and the water gets in behind and can't go anywhere.. I can see you are in Seattle so moister I imagine can be a problem.. I have no good answer to the problem of moisture inside tubes other than to paint inside them or use a cold galvanizing zinc or a waxoyl, or Fluid film type product.. Have you thought about opening a notch in 2 corners and opening up.. Having it to small can be a real problem when going to use it.. I found this to be the case on the stand I had shown..

Sorry Glenn.. Not a hat wearer.. Unless it frilly.

Why is there something about large anvils? What makes me see this beast and be like.. Ooohh.. It's so big.. I want one.. Mind you some Jimmy choos will do it to but on a different level..

Looks good.. I am curious about the sand and oil in the legs?

I have never even given that any thought... It is black with IFI.com on it.. I supposed in todays turmoil anything can be problematic.. Crazy... No head scarft, or do rags, or arm bands or colored blue or red shirts or bandanas.. What the monkey is going on.. Luckily everywhere I am demoing or showing up are non gang ran events so I should be ok..

Sorry? Rozzers?

Glenn the administrator has swag for sale ( T shirts, Do rags and such ) that can be worn and this might attract get others attention as you walk around. In some of the videos I wear a do rag and it has the IFI address on it which I hope will attract more here also.

Thank you.. I just love to see the overall package.. I love you guys have these huge anvils there..

Please post a face shot with a ruler or measuring tape.. Nice stand for sure.. That there is a nifty stand.. Something like that made out of heavy plate steel would be handy.. I love foot hold downs.. Really nice design..

Well it looks great.. Really nice work and great attention to detail.. Have a chance to use it yet?

Nice stand,, I like the anvil also. Good job on the horn.. Are the timbers through drilled and bolted also? Is the anvil glued down?

Yes, the cited information is correct.. The discussions we as a group have had for anvil height, body stance, etc etc.. All play into a limiting factor of there is only so many everythings with the body.. If I can get a 1/2 of % out of each hammer stroke with an increase in moving metal I will take it.. Or course a larger percentage is always better... I like getting 5% return on credit card cash back, 1% is better than 0... Anything is better than 0.. Someone starting out now has so many opportunities because of the easy access to not only the web but also local support groups.. ABANA has set standards for forge skills.. While I can work on any equipment even if it is skating across the floor or even not level or the blower doesn't work right.. It doesn't mean I want to for any length of time.. It's funny to me now, but really I have done the math with less than stellar mounts (not literally math) but working on wonky stands and equipment and while starting out doesn't need to be expensive as I am all for ALO's and dirt forges and such.. I even enjoy working on these things.. If there is a better more effective way for me to work to preserve my body while being effective.. I am all for it.. Best thing is with anything the only way to get good at something is to throw caution to the wind and go for it.. I used to make 50 or even 100 of something just to get better.. It was all fun.. Yes, we do..