natenaaron

I had discounted the porta-band. Just assumed the fixed unportable nature of the 4x6s made them more sturdy, thus more likely to cut straight. I did see that Grizzly has a portable bandsaw that comes with a table. I assume a table could be manufactured for the Milwaukee. My goal is a square cut.

Only if you want a true indication of how well the anvil rebounds. Rough on the concrete though.

Now the big question, do they all suffer the same issues as the harbor freight? Not sure I see much need to spend the extra for the same machine that will need the same fixes.

Been looking at the 4x6 metal bandsaw selections and I realized they all look alike. JET, Harbor Freight, ENCO, Grizzly I am assuming only the name is different. Is this correct?

My forge is probably not intended for fine silver work, or I am not intended for fine silver work. Either way I am without an anniversary present for my wife. My wife is an avid reader so I thought it would be thoughtful to make her a special bookmark. I order some PMC3 silver clay (Great stuff for people with zero silversmithing skills). rolled it out, embossed it with my special love you saying. Added a couple other things, including our sons' finger prints. I did everything I was supposed to do up to the firing. It was too long to fire on the camp stove as I have done for small things so, me being me said "hey I have I forge". I got the smallest flame I could from one burner. All went fine, got the cherry red I was looking for, kept the piece moving and in less than two minutes I had a bubbling silver mass. Everyday is a learning experience.

IMHO that guy is going to cause someone's death.

tell him that now

This is quite true. I have a millermatic 185 which is a minimum of 16 years old. No issue getting parts at all.

Sounds like you were doing something on the hood you should not have been.

Very nice

I have a Cape Forge knife with switchable blades, an Allen Goodman knife and a few flexcut knives. The cape forge is way stiff and I hardly use it. I prefer, as do many carvers (I refer to myself as one very loosely) a blade with some flex. The Allen Goodman knife is heads and tails a better carver than the others, and I stopped buying knives after I gt t one. Take a look at carving knife profiles. What you has wil be pretty tough to carve with. Needs more point. Some folks like the big belly on a blade. I don't I I prefer straight. Carving knives are a very personal thing. A carver may have a hundred knives and other tools but they gravitate to one. Go look at the guy's knives. That will tell you what he likes to work with.

First and foremost that light is awe inspiring. I mean dang! Is that one piece of bent wood, bent lamination, or.....How did you do that? Second. Send without wiring. Let the American electrician do the work. Have the client give you name of the electrician, she will be using and then contact him directly. He will tell you what you need to do make it ready for him/her to work on.

This is just rubbing it in. Wow. Great response.

Awesome. We adults can take a lesson from babies. No matter how bad things are for them, they can generate a smile to melt the toughest of us.

SOmeone needs to sneak over scope out the haul and wait until it is lower than the dollar. Still 1lb:1.3$. Then we pounce.

Things are evil. Had one come apart and skid off my face mask. So far I have been very fortunate. A carbide tooth on a stone cutting saw came off and took a chunk ot of the side of my glasses, then the cut off blade skidding off the face shield. If I had the misfortune of Taking a direct hit I would be blind in both eyes. I never take the guards off my grinders. I've had chop saw abrasive disks come apart but not been hit by that shrapnel yet.

i'll give the bandsaw more tweaking and see what happens. I had not thought about the hardened metal situation. Maybe I am being too anal about accuracy, but anything is better than the abrasive junk.

always hang up on the phone company. They are evil.

I have a vac for the saw dust that does well. I do not do wood working and metal working in the same building and I won't use the vac system for metal. Too much of a fire hazard. I don't have an issue with the wood. I want the accuracy and no abrasive dust. I will use the misting thing though.

What a smile on a tough little girl. On the knee mail list. You and your family is on the list too.

I am looking for recommendations for dry cut chop saws. I am getting away from the abrasive saws for two reasons. first and foremost is the health issue posed by the abrasive. I cut with a respirator on but I that dust is real fine and stays in the air for quite a while not to mention it getting stirred up. The second reason is I am tired of inaccurate cuts. I come from a wood working back ground and inaccurate cuts are embarrassing. I borrowed a band saw and while nice I am not getting as accurate a cut as I want and it is just too big. After lots of reading of reviews and descriptions the Dry cut saw might be he best answer to my situation. I've never used one and no one I know has one so I can't see how they work. Anyone here use one and have a recommendation

See, girls are trouble. Boys are just stubborn. At least so far.

Watch the language. Glenn is does not tolerate potty mouths. We all learn, it is when we stop that we should worry. Even if it is not a "real anvil" I see several uses and besides the hardy hole. Heck I use a rail road track and a couple big rounds as anvils.

How do they stay in, Friction? How strong are they?

Thanks Charles. This explains why I could not find information. I was not searching side blast forge. I appreciate you taking to time to explain.