JHCC

The plug appears to have been cut off -- is there a way to test a motor without plugging it in? Say, touch a multi-meter to the exposed wire ends on the old power cord?

I just got a line on this beastie, which seems like an interesting option for someone with limited space and budget. It's a 2x90 vertical grinder with a 2½" contact wheel at the top, a vertical platen on one side, and a slack-belt area on the other. The one I'm interested in is used, and I have no idea if the motor (a 1hp TEFC Baldor that runs on 115v single phase) works or not. The seller is asking $150 -- think it's worth it? Are 2x90 belts harder to find than 2x72s or so much more expensive that I'd end up paying more in the long run? Here's a photo from the manufacturer's website: (Note that this is shown with a narrower belt and smaller radius contact wheel than the one I'm considering.)

I saw the link before the mods removed it, and this is a lot heavier than that. I'm sure there's a technical term, but heavy equipment is not my field.

Welcome aboard, Jack! If you haven't yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!!

I probably won’t be there early enough on Friday for a meet-up, but if anyone’s looking for me (perhaps so as to avoid me?), I’ll be wearing this hat:

Spotted this interesting-looking hunk of steel next to the road a few weeks back and finally stopped to pick it up. I think it’s a tie-down from some piece of heavy equipment. Lola is certainly intrigued.

Yes; first declension, masculine nominative plural The true penannular broach has a gap for the pin to pass through, which wouldn’t work with the full-circle theme of the ouroboros. The pseudo-penannular type with an unbroken circle would work better artistically, if slightly less practically.

Measure the volume with the displacement method and multiply by the density of steel. That’ll get you close.

Keep it family-friendly, Frosty!

Really nice. Great design and craftsmanship.

I'm trying to convince Lisa to go to Wool Gathering next year; she, Deb, and The Spinster can commiserate!

From my reading of the material on the website of Parker Rust-Proof of Cleveland (which I won't link to here, because it's a commercial site), Parkerizing is basically a three-stage process: cleaning, immersion in phosphoric acid (which deposits a layer of iron and manganese phosphates on the surface), and a sealing treatment with wax or oil (to seal the porous phosphate layer). The correct term is "phosphoric acid", the common name of trihydrogen phosphate (H3PO4).

Do aluminum cats even need bowls?

Considering how cheap rusty files go for at the flea market, this could be a particularly useful way to convert junk into usable tools. How tough is that black finish? Might this be something that we end up using to finish our complete work (knife blades and such)?

Welcome aboard, Marshall! If you haven't yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!!

Bummer. I was looking forward to meeting you in person. (And getting my copy of The Book autographed.)

If you can’t hold it, you can’t hit it. There are some good discussions here on tong recommendations for beginners; check them out.

What Buzzkill said. You’ve got a nice Mousehole (aka The Undisputed King of Anvils), made between 1830 and 1835. The 1-1-0 mark means 140 pounds; look around for info on the hundredweight system. The upside-down stamp is unusual and a bit fun. People sometimes say that it’s the kind of mistake that gets made at the end of a shift when workers are tired and not paying attention, but it could simply be carelessness.

My last few hammers, I've given the ash handles a light char all over, then painted on a coat of my standard finish (1 part tung oil, 1 part turpentine, 1 part beeswax) and buffed it. Gives a nice bit of shine without the kind of high gloss that can lead to blistering.

Lovely. Just don't let the dogs get it.

Looks like I will be able to make it, but I think I missed the deadline for online registration.

No, and no. My supervisor's husband runs a dive shop, and I bought a decommissioned tank off him some months ago. Here's the dishing form I made from the bottom: Basically cut off the bottom, inverted it in a section of the body of the tank, and welded it together and onto a base (shown here with hold-down chains but subsequently given more permanent fittings to key it onto the anvil). The new one is made from the top end (with the hole plugged), which is deeper and appears to have two different radii. I think instead of having it mount on the anvil, I'll make it taller and with a stem to fit into the portable hole. Might fill the interior with sand, for greater mass. Nope.

Can’t touch those.

Did some drilling and tapping for the custom-project-to-be-revealed-later. Also did some welding on a new dishing form that I’m making from an old scuba tank.