Daswulf

Reminds me of a Marty Feldman. I think he could use some Body. If you can, a springy neck and body. Magnum Opus Feldman also needs a cowboy hat and a 6shooter. Yeah, Marty Feldman in a western. Don't throw away your tools, just set them some place you know they will be and turn around to do something else. Then go back to them and they will be gone long enough that you will beg them back. Works for me.

That looks good Davor.

Well best way to decide is what is available or abundant to you cheap, what Can you use in your area and what kind of work do you plan to do. Plus no one says you can just have one forge or kind of forge. There are also some trade offs between solid fuel forges and gas forges. Simplest and easiest to build and adjust is a JABOD "just a box of dirt" side blast solid fuel forge.

Ugh, that if fo hard to read lol. Normal S at the top in Smithing then f looking s's in the writings.

Thanks Irondragon. Hope so. Frosty, you are fine. I have had situations make me miss out on so many projects/ things in my life that I mighta been rich but stuff happens. Glenn loved you for who you are and would totally understand your situation. Your love and thoughts are what count most. I will send a snowman and snowflake in your honor if that is ok with you.

You mention building a starter "forge", be sure to look a the "JABOD" thread for simple solid fuel forge ideas. Or I use a bottom blast forge using a brake rotor that is a simple plan as well mentioned somewhere on here. If looking for a gas forge there is extensive talk on here about building them. After looking around the topics, if you have questions please feel free to ask.

Shipping this out this week. Wanted to do more but I hope this is good enough. I know Glenn would understand. It is a tough point in my life.

Cool finds Scott! The reamers, deburring or burr bits are hardened steel and using one on hot metal might draw temper on it, softening it and making it useless for the intended use of chamfering the edge of a hole in metal.

I had a friend with a fake leg that would kid around at the bar with strangers and stick a knife in his fake leg. He was a truly kind and fun guy. He passed many years ago.

You are only moving metal the size of the hammer face so a sledgehammer is generally larger than that. In practice it works. With a look through the improvised anvil thread one can learn a lot. I have to agree that most modern car parts do not make for a good anvil but there is some good usable steel depending on intended use.

Did not know Bear but very sad news of another fellow blacksmith passing. Prayers for friends and family.

Easiest thing to find and get to use as an improvised anvil in my opinion is the biggest sledgehammer head you can find. You don't even have to remove the handle if it has one. If not in fleamarket or yard sale season, look into second hand stores for inexpensive ones. You could get one with or without a handle. Then when you mount it on end and start forging you can take your time and look for a good deal on something bigger, better.

Yeah, wasn't saying there were none around just all kinda farther like pittsburgh and around that distance as far as my search showed. I am located closer to 3 rivers that connect but it seems all the listed dive shops are 30-45 minutes away. Could always make some calls first. Not making excuses, just that I can't get out like a free man like I used to without anger or retribution. Some day...

Not many of those around or close.

We all get called home when it is our time (whether our mortal selves understand or not) and the rest of us continue on our journey of learning and experiences in this world. They are in light, peace and Gods love. We will mourn them but we are all reunited eventually. I couldn't imagine such heartbreak.

I just got them so I'm in no rush to ultimately decide what I will do with them. A little more research will determine their fate. Some of the small ones that are empty might end up bells. I still have two bells that haven't sold yet. One from a tank and another aluminum one from a fire extinguisher. The aluminum one from the fire extinguisher with a wooden clapper has a nice deep soft tone. I would like to find more of those. I have thought of talking to someone at a fire extinguisher company that supplies and checks them, just haven't got around to it yet.

Got a call from a friend wanting to clear some scrap. Also had some out of date co2 bottles needing gone from her bar. Most of the co2 bottles are full. I know I could use them as shielding gas for welding so I might get a gauge to use them. Mainly was in it for the bottles themselves.

I agree and was thinking of a vacuum collection or at least a hood to suck out fumes and dust in a small area. Think of what all accumulated in the bigger area and condense that into a small area. Respirator And vent hood. If not also a vacuum collector under the grinder. Also, make the inside area flame proof or resistant. You don't want trapped in a small enclosed burning building. Think of safety for yourself in any way you can then google more you wouldn't think of. Might be able to mitigate the dust issue with just the things you would Need in an encolsed room without the enclosed room.

Terribly sad to hear such a tragedy. Prayers for Robb and Bunty and family and friends.

I am guilty of not mentioning conversions when I post for the most part. As was mentioned it is a courtesy of the poster or video creator. It Is easy enough to look up the conversions online or phone. But I applaud anyone taking the time to do so. I have many times looked up conversions as well as language translators when interested.

Pigsticker, if the cable is loose then it will want to fray at the ends with hammer blows even at forgewelding temps. . You could combat this with good forging technique but even with retwisting there will most likely be a bit more loss in material. It would be tricky and you would likely have to start just at the end getting it consolidated and twisting as you hammer. If you have problems using a wire wrap then you might not be at the level yet for the technique needed. Also it may be messier and add more inclusions you don't want. Do you have tongs to hold the stock as it is? Have you successfully welded cable yet? Sometimes we pay extra in the learning process. Either paying more for someone else to do a part, wasting fuel, time and materials in practicing or spending time or money learning new things to then go out and practice with the information then buy or build new tools we need for the trade. The Most expensive thing we can do is jump in uninformed and hurt ourselves, others or property. No time spent researching and learning more we are interested in is wasted time.

John, Goods is not misunderstanding me. Before his post Pigsticker asked about the idea of forgewelding the handle on. Goods was responding to that.

It may be different lengths in a gas forge, due to the dragons breath, vs. A solid fuel forge. I use a solid fuel forge and when I have forged cable I just make the handle long enough to manage the piece. A gas forge might heat the handle a little further back, not sure. Just make sure it is not too thin for a comfortable hold and doesn't bend too easily with the weight on the end when heated up.

As John stated, it isnt about good or bad alloy except in its intended use. As you previously stated you will be forge welding these into knife billets? Then the alloy doesn't matter as much for welding the ends. You could also tell the welder that it doesn't need to be pretty it just needs to hold the strands together. I couldn't guess what it would cost in your area, sorry. That is up to you to find and talk to a welder about. As mentioned the more you understand the process and can clearly convey what you need and intend to do with it the better. You might even want to cut some steel rod or rebar to have handles welded on to one end while they are welding. If it seems too pricy then it may be well worth looking into a welding course to learn about then purchase a welding machine yourself. Also as mentioned there Are other work arounds other than welding. Another option other than wire is to use hose clamps to keep the ends from fraying. Just know that the hose clamps will be consumables.

If you find a welder to ask, tell them you have "x" number of "y" diameter cable sections "z" long, and that you would like the ends welded to keep them from fraying. That will give them an understanding of what it would take them to do the job and give you a quote for a price. They might ask you what alloy they are.