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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by J

  1. Yeah, obviously 1/2 ton on a ladder lift isnt going to work. The one i have is based on the ladders rating, 300lb. Could you give more detail on what youre lifting and 25ish feet height is the next challenge. To handle that load it needs to be single stage. Sounds more like a stationary crane, or boom truck project.
  2. Create it similar to a rubics twist except, instead of cutting into the bar at 90 degrees cut into it at a sharper 45 degree ish cuts. Then twist to align. I made a similar one and back cut the sharp corners off before the twist. It made a handel of raised diamond shapes.
  3. I pondered this earlier, and even mocked up a piece of 1-1/2 “ tubing flaring out the end. Too big for the hole but a good exercise in upsetting square tube. It measures to be like a 1 3/8”+ hardy and according to aia should be 1-3/8”. So best sized tubing i can get from my supplier is 1-1/4” with 11ga which leaves me a with 1” hardy. My next thought was how to fasten/secure the 1-1/4” tube in a 1-3/8” hole. I guess i could shim the sides and flare the bottom to lock it in. Or just leave it loose. Anyway just throwing out ideas. Thanks for the thought thanks i may
  4. Thanks for your thoughts guys.. ive cleaned it up and lightly flattened the high parts on the top. Im still pondering on the hardy. And still need to slightly dress the edges
  5. Im not too sure about that 3/4”. I can see how it looks that way from the side. But the failed fishers ive seen were closer to 1/4”. their 1887 patent drawings show this thickened edge and thinner face. And yes i would plan on jumping the welds a bit.
  6. That urge is powerful! I agree that the damage looks like a failed weld more than edge chipping, in how its uniform in appearance. But i know nothing of its past use, which it saw a lot of, other thant it came from the amarican bridge co. The shaft of the hardy is perfectly fine I tend to make my hardy tooling by tapering and upsetting for the tool base. That wont work here as is, I can make them on the swage block for use on this anvil.
  7. I just wrestled this beast to the shop. Its a 1914 fisher 450 lb. there is a good amount of damage to the hardy edges at the top. My first instinct is to repair the edges. But ive also considered just making wider hardy tooling im my swage so it will rest on the top ie “span” over the missing edges. My repair procedure is to clean the area. Preheat with a big propane burner to 400F. Then nickle weld a base layer on the cast. Then clean and hard facing rod to build up the edge. Finally clean/dress the edges Ive repaired several wroght iron anvil edges and feel very confident
  8. harbor freight has an adjustable roller you can buy, its about $150 last time I bought one. I'm not generally a HF fan, but it was for a single job rolling some tube, I needed to roll 5 12" rings out of 1" copper. I figured it would be a consumable tool and not last, but its been hanging around the shop and used quite a bit. I took the time to mill a few specific dies, but theres a number of sites that sell various milled dies for it online, but for 1/2 square just use the flat dies that come with it. youll loose about 6" of material on each end that wont bend into a radius so for a 4' di
  9. Yes seen them, and been in mills first hand. unless im missing something, it only strengthens my thoughts on trying to retain the grain from the steel mill. Eh anyway im not a bladesmith, just curious.
  10. here here on the amateur comment. My real job is vp of engineering for a gc. yes there are bad clients, the may not be not dishonest or bad people, just unreasonable bad clients. its a matter of how bad, and can you predict how bad. in our case if we sense this, we add a modifier to the total management cost to deal with them. if we get the job, we at least have enough in the budget to have a project mgr babysit the project. and document document document. make sure you document and have provisions for the sure to come change orders. were in a slightly better market now and c
  11. So recently I was involved in a debate about steel, more precisely, modern carbon steels used in knife making. This may seem like a bladesmithing topic but I think it applies better to general forging of modern carbon steel. at any rate its a good study of material science. It started as I overheard some general conversation about forging a complicated knife shape vs stock removal to achieve the same shape. the argument was that in a "modern carbon steel" it dosnt matter whether you forge the shape or mill or grind it away, it would achieve the same strength once it was properly heat
  12. I have a similar forge for travel /demo work and it originally had a refractory type lining about 1 1/2 inch thick. I took it out to lighten the load, and since that forge just heats up 1-2 times a month ill deal with the slow decay of metal. originally the mortar was just placed in it level except for a small bowl depression in the middle with the bottom being the air inlet. With a rivet forge that's all that was expected, just to heat rivet sized metal to forging temp. to get a hotter fire for big pieces or forge welding you'll need to bank the sides up with more coal, but with that the
  13. Thanks for the input, and differences of the two. I've not spent a lot of time on power hammers. I worked on an lg50 last year and successfully made trapezoidal stock from perfectly new round... Learning curve was short tho. I used a big blu last year for a brief time and again for about an hour this Saturday and really liked it, Im sure I'd be happy with it. I don't know anyone around here (central NC) that has an IK. So a direct comparison on my part may be hard to do. I enjoy making tooling and have made several sets of spring swages for my treadle hammer and would have no problem maki
  14. Have any of you compared iron kiss hammers to big blu hammers? Specifically the octagon 100 vs the big blu 110. From what I've read, air consumption on the octagon may be less. I only have a 5hp/80 gal compressor and trying not to buy a new one. For the price difference I can get a blu 110 and 10hp compressor for about the same money, I've heard big blu is an air hog. The other factor is big blu is only 1.5 hrs away should problems arise, I can get replacement parts easily, and travel to pick up is less. I've used a big blu for an evening, and liked it a lot compared to only othe
  15. Yes, needlers/scalers work good for peening. Also used one for work hardening a brass base.
  16. Mathematically speaking an Area, in our case "square foot", has zero thickness therefore zero weight. That's true if we're talking about steel, brass, or bananas. Its not until you give it a thickness like 1" , 1/4" etc... Then it becomes Volume, which given the density, becomes weight.... And I think steel is closer to 490 lb/CF 12"x12"X1/4" = 10.2 lb ish now...what were we talking about... .
  17. it would be a bit unwieldy to use with a burning log in it , just think how much movement the reins have to have to capture and release. it appears to be mad to grip something of a specific size and hold. a lid or hot handle.
  18. J

    Name this tong

    that's a very realistic leaf you made in the pictures...
  19. try bending cold .. if it looks unsatisfactory or wont work, bend it hot with a torch exactly where you want the bend. if it breaks at some point in the future, bend another loop install a longer eye bolt, rinse and repeat as needed. To keep the rest of the spring cool, submerge it in a bucket of water with just what you want to heat and bend above the waterline, heating will be harder but can be done with a hot enough torch. and remember soon as you start monkeying around with heating, hardening, and tempering an unknown piece of steel you're asking for more unknowns to happen.
  20. sq foot has no weight ... you beat me to it!
  21. yes the original intent was aimed to get Damascus knife makers responses, but the final use may be whatever.. thanks for the additional ideas
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