Hofi

I use the old hair drier of my wife to get even flow of the gass the tank never freez nor the pressure but you have to remember to close it dowen when finished Hofi

Look at BP'S BP1008 Rivets to Length BP1032 Hand Forged Rivet BP1033 Forging a Rivet with a Fly Press BP1034 Forging a Rivet with a Hydraulic Press Hofi

Arbalist No name yet .just TOOL SUPORT The incisions are forged from both sides so one can use it left and right Hofi

Kasper take te adjusting screws out and they are now 45 degrees. sharpen them to 25-30 degres than you'll be able to control ahe amount of drops. not more then 3-4 drops aminute. there is another way - take again the screws out put in a 1/4'' ball bearing steel ball and suport it with a very light spring and here you have a drop control and a nonreturen valve together Hofi

NO there is no shelf at all !!! If you want any more information I''ll just be happy to give. Hofi

1 Start the fire with chanks of wood (I use cokes only) 2 The same from the side .one can see the 25 degrees cut of the tunnel that brings the top of the tunnel over the center of the fire and will produce a better suction 3 After cover the smoke alone is olso being suked very good 4 ready for heat 5 from the front the tunnel is 12 1/2'' squar and the chimney 12'' 6 from a distance 7 into the roof 8 the semmi round tool is to suport the steel in the fire inthe right angle according to the need Hofi

I will answer u later today . With photo's and dimentions Hofi

The first photo shows the set of hammers that I am forging with and they are very near to my forging station. most of my forging 90% is done with the cast 3# and the forged 3,3# The 4,4-5,3-9,25 -# I use very seldom for punching big holes or when I need single or some very heavy hits for a short time . from the shining handles one can see that they are in yse all the time. Using a heavy hammer for forging is not depending on power but only on technic .I can forge with the 3 - 3.3 - 4.4 # hammers hours long and I am 74 years old. In Germany in the old times before the II WW in the forging schools they had a speciel program to teach the use of the striking hammer. 14 kg -30# hammer was one of them. Bipolarandy I do not understand the first line of your thread for me it is still very interesting because we all learn a lot from different aproches to the problam I think u have to tink it over again Hofi the 4.4# hammer on the photo that was in 1993 is 15 years old with the same mapel handle that I produced with the drawknife that I sent pix of to the other thread and glued with the ''sikaflex 11 fc'' and still going strong

Before using the belt grinder to produce the hand hammer handles i forged ''small draw knives'' to do it . Attuched some pix of the drawknives i sded 15-20 years ago and some times i still use them hofi

If while forging you do not heat over 1850 degrees you do not have to ''normalise'' just let it cool in the air (I do it under a ventilatior) and it will work. This is the way I do it. hofi

because my mame came up in the discusion I want to give some remarks and to make things clear. on BP 1012 as glen pointed I have explained my way of producing ''hammer handles'' and how I glue it and it was allready discused on another place on the porum. as for the types of wood that I used and useing now. I started with OAK wich was too brittle then went to RED MAPLE which was much better but still I was not pleased with , later I came ecross the EPEA south american dark-broun very beutyfull wood and I liked it but the problam was 1 very expenssive 2 very high specific gravity the handle it self was too heavy. I was still looking for another and may be better wood and found in GERMANY the RUBBINIA ( A TYPE OF ACACHIA) which is very light strong elastic and cheap used in many places in eurpe for handles. the last 400 hammers I forged where handled with RUBBINIA until now no complain. AS FOR THE GLUE IT IS PU GLUE ''SIKAFLEX 11 FC'' This was also discused on some forumes here befor Hofi

HELLO Being an international demonstrator and teacher I was mooving lots of tools from Israel to the USA.Cannada,Germany .Holland .Japan and more. I used most of the time HEAVY DUTY canvas army bag. once I demoed at NWBA nnd canairon 2 and took with me 220# of tools in two bags. one thing you can not privent THEY will open it for securitry inspection. one time on the way to Germany THEY opened and steal 4 of the 15 hammers I had. May be one of the inspectors was a hobbty blacksmith !!!!!!!!! On my last flight to Holland a month ago THEY opend to cheack and steal the bottle of parfume 100$ I bought as a present for my wife. HOFI

Do not understand why not make it simple and get a piece of right steel and make a GOOD TOOL THE SUPPERQUENCHED steel will never hold high temp the moment u''ll use the tool the quenched miled steel will be SOFT again because it is not heat withstanding steel !!! GET a piece of good steel and you get a good tool that will last longer and save lots of time and frustration!!! Hofi

HELLO PHIL NOW that I saw the photos on the member gallery and they are clear and focused I can tell u that this hammer was forged by the big blu when he still was using the touchmark I gave him ( that says ''HOFI''in hebrew) under the agreement we have between us. WHICH HE BREACHED meanwhile. if the handle is loos heat the hammer eye with a rosebud easy both sides to 200 degrees and hammer the handl out with a 5/8x 1'' flat steel wait until cool down and clean the remaining glue in the hammer eye and on the handle and glue again with sikaflex 11 fc let it set for 48 hours and clean brush it with a rotating brush with 8 thou thick steel fibers not on very high speed. HOFI

Hello richard thank you for the compliment. the anvil is still under test but very soon we''ll go for the market. My intenational agent is Johannes Angele from ANGELE MASCINENBAU ANGELE-Schmiedetechnik | alles rund um's schmieden: Herzlich Willkommen JOHANNES@ANGELE.DE We have not yet pointed an agent in the USA already some sold from Germany may be in the near futuer U may get the anvil and stand fron IFI stor HOFI

more foto's

This is my design of anvil base for my ''HOFI'' anvil and for ALL the others too. steel plate 13/4'' cut to the anvil base pattern. two conicel pins are seatting into the anvil to hold it a water can dowen the line of prichel holes the 3 legs are from RHS steel 2x4'' cut in 23 degrees with a steel plate on the bottom. the toiols trat is swiwel and hight adjust. the plat is grinded and the bottom of the anvil too . between them there is a thin layer of sikaflex 11 fc that takes away the noise of forging and acts like a spring while forging Hofi

the original question was ABOUT ''LOOS HANDLE'' In ALL my 20 years of forging I never wedged a hammer ALLWAYS GLUED the handle to the hammer head . I started with 6 hours set epoxy and I still have hammers that are holding after 20 years !!!!!!!!! 6 years ago I started to use SIKAFLEX 11 FC and all the hammers that I forged and cast I used the SICA PU GLUE are holding without any problam. The advantege of the SIKA is that it holds much better and because of the rubber like natuer it absorbs the vibration much better . and I am speaking about more then 1000 hammers that I sold in that 6 years time. as for preserving the wood . In the last 10 years I used WD-40 .it is easy to use soaks very good into the wood and after 2 days there is no smell what so ever. I sprey it very thoroughly twice and let it dry for 2 days. NO complain about the smell. I do it only once in the hammer life time and Israel is a hot dry country !!. I LIKE my handles to be as SMOOSE + SLICK as possible the more the better and I never had a blster in my hand,and I am forging hours long . IF ONE HOLD / GUID the hammer right he will never get a blister !!!!!!! Hofi