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I Forge Iron

Hofi

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Everything posted by Hofi

  1. pic 1 The forge front door close pic 2 The front dor open (4 1/2'' ) pic 3 The openning mechanisem ( holding with friction ) pic 4 The rear door close pic 5 The rear door open (sits on the side pins ) pic 6 The air inlet full open pic 7 The air inlet half open pic 8 The air inlet closed The air inlet is adjusted when the ''wings'' outer part of the berner is been rotated according to the type of fire one needs (oxidised,natueral or retarded ) The importent part of the burner are the wings on the sides of the outer part of the burner .They give the air a rotational moovment into the burner and by this a much better mixing properties of air/gas and therfor better and more economic fire . the burner is operating on interval of 0.2-1.3 pounds pic 9 Look from the side pic 10 7/8'' squer steel heated to length of 10-11'' Hofi
  2. ALL the leaves are forged ONLY with the air hammer!!!!!!!!!!!! one heat to forge and preper the basic form and the second to forge the leaf. Some times a leaf is forged in one heat only. for the forging process one need two type of dies 1 combination dies to preper the basic form 2 crown dies to forge the leaf between those two one can forge all this type of natural organic forms I keep all the time 4-5 pieces of steel in the gas forge. I preper now a set of pics about the gas forge ,the most interesting thing is the burner IF finish to day I ''ll submit the pics Hofi
  3. 40 leaves forged in 2 hours from 3/4'' steel with two air hammers ,shahinler 50 kg and anyang 25 with my new desigened gas forge Hofi
  4. If the ''compressor ramm'' is opperating and the ''hammer ramm''is not operating an the machine is oiled thre can be two rerasons to the failier i the ''opperating valv'' on the right side of the hammer is not in the right possision 2 there are two rubber pipes conected to the ''hammer ramm'' the bottom one is burst (you can heaer it when you run the hammer) replace the pipe . N o t an eassy job ,and you must fined a high preassor pipe or mail the agents and get one check also the v driving belts if they are not in order change them too this is the first thing to do !!!!!!!!! Not an eassy job too best luck hofi hofi
  5. to conect the ends for the air suply you can use an used inner motorcicle tube cut to length use thin steel wire and pliers and fasten it .and you have a flexible air conection .when I started 20 years ago all my forges were conected in this way .One of them worked 10 years . if you need to cange once in 10 year it is not a problam ,you have allways enough inner tubes. Hofi
  6. Some of my tools for the'' hardey hole'' . Most of my hardey hole tools are forged from one piece of steel.some times I make the tools into the prichel hole as the ''nailer'' in pic 10. if I need to rotate the tool while forging . most of them are forged from rear exel steel Hofi
  7. I dont believe so. I've only seen tungsten carbide being brazed on to the tool base. __________________ Freelance Fabber is right as I said on the thread befor the TUNGSTEN CARBIDE can be brazed only !! brazing= glue . Hofi
  8. HOW VERY WONDEFULL ADRIAN !!!!!!! My smithy whice is much bigger is also lokated in the natueral serounding ,horse stable and cow burn from both sides olive and fig trees around and the mountains of shamaria in the east. for me it is like forging in the natuer . Ivery much understand the spritueal mood while forging in such an atmosphere bravo adrian hofi
  9. Sam you can not weld tungsten you can braze the tungsten with silver rod. and you can not forge it .The tungsten will shutter !!! be carfull !!!!!!!!! All my tools are ''HOT FIT'' AND IF YOU DO IT YOU MUST TAKE UNDER CONSIDERATION THAT THE EXPANTION/SHRINK FACTOR IS DIFFERENT THEN THE MANDREL YOU PUT ON!! The whole system is explained on -hofi 1013 BP- I attuch more tooling that I made the last half a year. Before you start you must check if the tungsten you have is hard or soft with a file if it is the hard one you can do nothing only the soft one you can file or grind or cut on the lathe. Thomas Dean the name is ALFRED and not ALBERT. The attuched 4'' round in 4''round is the one I made in my smithy and I still have it with me while Habermman was in my smithy and I showed him the slitting possibility with the tungsten whice he never new about it before HOFI
  10. THANK YOU AVADON for showing the dvd (this was part 2).if one puts ''hofi anvil '' on'' you tube ''one can have the first part that explains the advanteges of the anvil. On those dvds the sikaflex 11 fc is not yet between the anvil and the base . The moment one puts the glue there will be no ring at all. NO NEED to put send or led into the legs to stop the ringing it dose not help (I was there allready) it is just wast of time and money Hofi
  11. I think that to fill the the R.H.S hollow legs of the anvil base with either send or led is a wast of time and money. just for the fun of itI tryed it .It DOSE NOT STOP the ring and the waight of the led one just donot need. If one wants to privent the anvil from mooving just bolt it to the floor very fast and easy Hofi
  12. I use two basic and simple ways to hold tools while forging with air hammer. In the first 4 pic's a.b.c.d there is a colar fabricated from 11/8'' square steel that seats free around the bottom die with holes to insert the tools needed The second system in pic's e.f.g.h.i i use a heavy duty c clam to hold the tools Hofi
  13. Usualy for ''upsetting'' I use a rosebud to heat. there are several reasons for it: 1 heat much faster 2 very local and acurate 3 If you heat no more then a bit less then twice the OD of the steel and rotate while hammering the ''upsetting '' will stay in the center 4 one can upset many more itemes in an hour . IF one is having no rosebud only gas forge one can use the system I show in the following pic's Take a piace of ceramic isolating hard board drill a hole very little more then the steel OD stick the steel into the hole and out no more then twice the OD of the steel and put in the gas forge. If I have many pieces of steel I use more blocks ,then when I am upsetting one the other two are still in the fire Hofi
  14. The very importent thing is to properly maitain the heating of the steel . I heat the steel in a system that I call '' progressive entery '' always I heat 3-4 pieces of the steel in the fire . one on tope of the fire the second a bit in the fire the theird deeper and so on. the air is very miled and in this way in the procces of forging I allways heet all the pieces together gradualy and i gain sevaral advanteges of the system. 1 save lots of fule 2 very little scale 3 no steel is burent 4 allways I have hot steel ready to forge 5 forge more formes in a given time 6 the steel is heated all the way into the center and eaven heat before forging I brush very shortly and then forge. then I forge on clean steel. after finishing the forging I deep the piece for a very short instent (a friction of a second) in water and brash again. the deeping in the water makes the residue scale to shrink and ''fall '' off on the final brush . it gives the steel and the forme a very clean and shiny look. Hofi
  15. COREX I am teacing in Holland with CEES PRONK AT ''MONDRA ''WORKS MONDRA OPLEIDINGEN AMBACHTSWEG 38 6673 DK ANDELST WWW.MONDRAOPLEIDINGEN.NL He is now calling for the next class may be in the fall. doug I just sent you a privet mail hope you got it ,any how I may be coming to teach in the fall Hofi
  16. The pic's are element forged during a 4 day basic class with me in Holland and Germany Hofi
  17. attuched some pic's taken in my gallery with the IFI Tshirts on Gary Cremeen that came to study wit me for two weeks ans Judith on of my students. Hofi
  18. If you look at Glens web site you may see that he is forging with a HOFI cast hammer Hofi
  19. Hello VALENTINE I am attuching here a drawing of the system I use to forge this type of holes. The drawing is based on 30 mm ODrond steel and 30 mm hole diameter because it is more clear to show and explain. First you go to the drawing board and draw the plan. on the upper part you can seethe 30mm steel the center line of the steel and the line A perpendicular to the steel AND THE CENTER OF THE FUTRER HOLE . on the crossing point you draw a line 30 degrees to the steel(30 degrees just as a sample but any othe angle is ok to). The C points are the place you put a centerpunch to mark the places of the futer hole slitting with the chisle from both sides. you mark them on the steel acc to the needed distance between the holes. Have you done this take the chisle which is sharpen in a v like shape and put the point on the center punch and anddrive the chisel to the center of the steel until the two slots colide as the drawing show. then tilt the chisel a bit more then 30 degrees and drive the chisle in more from both sides until you get a clean hole. now you have to preper a steel plate with a hole driled at 32 degrees abd drive the drift into the slot through the guiding hole in the plat . this system is very acurate and you do not need a templat to go from one hole to the other The 2 degrees more on the plate hole is because of the pressure on the drift that push it to be less then 30. hope thigs are clear Hofi
  20. 60 PERS OF TONGS PARTS SHISELED/SLITTED AND DRIFTED READY FOR THE NEXT AND LAST STAGE OF FORGING FOR GERMANY ''EYE'' nd ''woop 35mm'' tongs
  21. Hello morjens Nice hammer if you will shorten the peen 4-5 mm you''ll get the wghit you wanted and the hammer will be more ballanced. to forge with this type of hammer and NOT hitting your knakles you''ll have to hold the hammer the way I show in the 1000 BP'S and then you also have better control Happy hammring Hofi
  22. ON 1997 when I was first teaching at the ''ozark school'' Bob Patric was my student and he took two classes with me Hofi
  23. With the right tooling and some training you''ll master the proces. You must be very decisive and concentrae and you''ll have no problam. Hofi
  24. Craftbender hi I want to reffer to the handles from one point of view ,the design is very nice but the welding disturbs me . I think that if you make a ''hidden welding '' drill a 7/16'' hole in the back plate and weld in that hole to the handle ,it will hold very good and no one will see the weld. just my humble advice Hofi
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