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I Forge Iron

Hofi

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Everything posted by Hofi

  1. Sorry for being so late with the answer was very busy with a visit from the USA. The 54 photo you reffer too is not clear enough the hammer head es hiding the position of the hand. So I took new photo's of the position from two different angels to have a clear sight of the hammer holding 1 flat to the anvil (when I forge with all the hammer face) 2 25-30 gegrees 3 45 degrees what ever angel the hammer is tilted too always I forge when the hit is 90 degrees to the anvil. one can very clear see that the thumb is suporting the handle from the side N E V E R ON TOP HOFI
  2. 100 3/8 '' holes that were chisele/slittered + driftes in 9/16'' and 5/8'' round steel 1045 for tongs order for Germany . All the holes werte forged within 3.5 hours with the two chisels and 8 drift in the att photo's. The 8 drifte are used one for a hole and falls dowen to the cooling water under the anvil prichel hole then only after the use of al the 8 you take them out of the water and start again. The chisels are never coold evry hole I use one chisel and put aside to cool and then for the next hole i take the second chisel and so on For bigger holes som times I use 3 chisels because the cooling siquence is longer. From time to time every 5 holes I deep the chisels in moly/graphyte solution to smoose and rase the cut.
  3. the photo's att are tools that were forged on a two day woekshop at my smithy dedicated to to cutting tools forged out of niled steel with forge welded wedge for the cutting edge knives ,wood carving tools,axes,throwing knives. The grinding is not finished yet A BP was made on the proces of the axe ,slitting the eye,forging the eye,forfing the cutting side, forging the steel wedge, cuting the slot to insert the wedge, inserting the wedge and forge welding . and final air hammer forging and oil quenching. the hammer is a Japanes style hammer for the forge welding Hofi
  4. some times I write cptal letter just because I like them very much and no other reason and also because my eye sight is not as good as it was 50 year ago. best regards Hofi
  5. No !!!!!!!!!!!! We tilt the hammer allways out wards and then ther is no problam only vrty rear we tilt the hammer towerds us and that is only for a short time hofi
  6. Archipile I do not see the thread as a DEBATE it is more information about a very interesting problam in the blacksmithing craft for more the 1000 years now. The idias are coming fron different aproch,education,cultuer,tredithion and belives you read learn try and muster what you think is ''best for you'' as many americans say but use you comonsence and make you desicision by lots of thinking ang trying the systems. I have prepered a compleat different aproch to the slitting and punching a hole or a decorated hole but this is to long for the thread it will come like a BP sorry abou thar Hofi
  7. On 02-10-09 Isaid I will answer the questions in due time , most of the time I stand for my words but this time first I was very very busy with lots of tools forgong for Germany ,England and the USA,(hammers,tongs,chisles,punches,drifts )and other projects and my photograffer in the last two month is which is studying electricity is going through ''sevear exams''on the subject ,so i''ll try to do my best with what we have in hand. Divermike enplanes it al very well I will try to go more in details. When one looks at the BP on can see in the sequence of the photo's that my wrist is moving 45 degrees from the start raising the hammer to the end hitting point. this is very important part of the raising of the hammer and the accelerating down forging hit.(will be explained more later) . I (or we) are having a problem with the photo;]'s of the BP the photo's are still photo's we can NOT show how it is in the reality of the dynamics swinging movement of the forging In the dynamics I even more loos my grip on the handle and the palm of the hand is more parallel to the anvil one use the shoulder joint , the elbow, the wrist and the pivoting of the hold of the hammer in the palm of the hand between the fingers when the thumb is NOT pressed to the handle from the side it only supports it. Why I hold (do not like the word hold) the hammer handle in a very loose grip? 1 our power is limited the harder we hold the handle the less power we have for forging 2 If one holds the hammer strong he can NOT accelerate the hammer and get the max velocity 3 in the friction of second when the hammer will hit the steel I loose the grip completely and we already have the aim we have the velocity the hammer do not need us any more ''let it go'' 4 then the hammer bounced because of the reaction and I use the wrist and the finger pivoting to raise the hammer and make the leverage between the hammer head and the shoulder shoeter and then it is very easy to raise the hammer 5 I one hold the hammer loose Nvibration will come to his hand very impotent is to understand why the palm of the hand must be as more parallel to the anvil and NOT right angle to the anvil . when raising the hammer and the palm of the hand is right angle to the anvil the wrist is moving to the limit of the joint and damage it but if the palm of the hand is almost parallel to the anvil there is NO limit to the movement and therefore NO damage. Also very impotent is that when I want to tilt the hammer and forge with the edge which I do very often I change the angel between my thumb and fingers and not by changing the angle of the palm of the hand. As for you question on my standing and forging ai adid not understand and therefore can not answer. as for what Gerald B wrote with 85 % i complitly disagree!! and this forum is NOT the place to discuss it. I was invited to demonstrate in England 6 times foue times for BABA CONFERENCES ANS AND AGM and twice as a sole demonstrator for the farrier assoc in their centinary not because of my beuty. in my last demonstration in iron bridge 2007 I gave a lecturer about my system of forging and more then 50 hammers were sold to day more the 300 hofi hammers are being used in England. the time that some one is or was spending near or with the ''black material'' dose not make him necessarily a good blacksmith or teacher. one can forge fantastic design but from the point of view of the hammer use he can be very bad. in 1994 I gave a lecturer in England again about my system and one of the blacksmith which is a very good friend of me now said '' mr hofi I am a son of a blacksmith grandson of a blacksmith 7 generations this is the first time for me to hear a lecturer about a hammer '' my answer was yes you were born to your fathers and grandfathers hammer and you never asked a very simple question WHY? AS FOR YOUR LAST PHRASE I would leave the baby and get rid of the dirty water for me the dirty water are the bad things that the tradition is carrying with. Hofi
  8. Hofi

    HINGES+LOCKS

    FOR 150 YEARS OLD DOOR
  9. Hofi

    HINGES+LOCKS

    FOR 150 YEARS OLD DOOR IN AN OLD GLASS FACTORY
  10. Hofi

    HINGES+LOCKS

    FOR 150 YEARS OLD DOOR
  11. Hofi

    HINGES+LOCKS

    FOR 150 YEARS OLD DOOR
  12. Hofi

    HINGES+LOCKS

    FOR 150 YEARS OLD DOOR
  13. Hofi

    HINGES+LOCKS

    FOR 150 YEARS OLD DOOR
  14. Hofi

    HINGES+LOCKS

    FOR 150 YEARS OLD DOOR
  15. Hofi

    HINGES+LOCKS

    FOR 150 YEARS OLD DOOR
  16. Hofi

    HINGES+LOCKS

    FOR 150 YEARS OLD DOOR
  17. Hofi

    HINGES+LOCKS

    FOR 150 YEARS OLD DOOR
  18. Hofi

    HINGE+LOCKS

    FOR 150 YEARS OLD DOOR
  19. If one ensist to do it on the anvil the easyest way is to ''GO'' with the slitter fast as deep as you can and get a very thin layer dowen on the anvil face hit it a bit more but very easy only to cool the bottom until it is darken then turn over and put the slitter on the darken mark but tilt the sliter a bit and hit then the corner will start to cut and the slitter will shear it like scissors.
  20. Alwin the calculation of the shrink /expansion is acc to the BP the length of the slit no. on big od steel the calculation differs acc to what you want to achive Archipile on thin matirial to make sure you get a clean cut after the first hit open the vice a bit gigger then the slitter and finish there the pice will fall dowen in the openning Hofi
  21. You mean 6'' slit long half of pi x d no! I made the length of the slit 5.11'' means 130 mm because i wanted to get a nice hole all around. I went in with three gradualy growing drifts the last one was the same size of the cross beam and then after i heated the ''eye'' and pushed it in the ''eye'' shrinked on and hold the construction together. I use a lot this shrink calculation in many places in furnituer or other places that i want a good hold with out welding or rivetting .one of the coffy tables that i produce a lot (and i wan the first prize in a disigen competition in jerusalem netional museume) of the is based on the shrink hold and many tools too. Hofi hofi
  22. hello yes I do forge hammer slitters and sell need to know what size hole for handlu need hofi

  23. One can forge a flatter in many wawy that were mentioned above or can ''fabricate'' the flatter. Cut from a 2x2'' a 1'' slice and cut from round 1 1/4'' another 2 1/2'' long piece kneck it 1 1/2'' from the upper part and weld a good weld in the middle of the squar slice hold warp the kneck with 3/8 '' steel and creat the handle or hold in the kneck with a per of loacking tongs and this locking tong will be good for all the different flatters you may do in the future see sample of small flatter with loacking tongs above in the photo Hofi
  24. a latice work from 4''x4'' and in proportion the same from 3/4'' the tungsten slitter for the hydropress and three chisels for hand forging chisel/slitter order 40 assorted diameter 1/2''-9/16''-5/8''-3/4'' 10 each and the cuting geometry.befor and after grinding the BIG 4'' was forged at my smithy by a group of 5 people three strikers 8 lbs hammer one holding the tungsten chisel and the drifts and one on the fire. the first heat took one hour then another 13 heats to finish al together 3 hours. Hofi
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