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Hofi

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Everything posted by Hofi

  1. IS IT WORTH THE RISK??????????? Do not drive a car ! very risky the cause for lots of death and injery !!!!!! Do not go to sleep in bed !! Most of the people die there !!! Do not eat GARBEGE food very very risky !! Do not smoke ! very risky Do not drink alcohole and drive this is duble risky!! Do not miss and hit the anvil ! you''ll get the hammer in your forehead very risky and last DO NOT FALL IN LOVE this is very risky !!!!!!!!!!!! i am in love now for 53 years with the same woman VERY RISKY ! EVERY steel one uses for tooling 1045,4140,4340.s1,s7,m4,h13 is risky if NOT forged and used properly and according to the technical datta of the steel EVERY THING THAT WE DO WHILE FORGING IS RISKY WE MUST PAY ATTENTION TO SAFTY AND THE RIGHT WORKMAESHIP ALL THE TIME !!!! HOFI
  2. I Think that frightening any one that the H 13 IS DENGEROUSE is not the right way to explain the RIGHT use of a tool or the the steel it is made of Brian. Iam forging tools made from H13 now more then 20 years hundreds of chisels,punchs ,drifts and asorted fullers for Germany and here in Israel NONE of was split shatered or broken because people use them RIGHT. IF YOU MISS USE ANY TOOL IT WILL OR BRAKE OR SHUTTER OR CAUSE YOU DAMEGE OR ALL OF THEM TOGETHER!! I my self was hit in my forehead and operated from a shrapnel piece of a cooled chisle made from 4140 from the other side of the room when a demonstrator made a mistake and missused the chisel. as for the price .I have H13 chisles and all the other tools of my school for more then 20 years and they will go at least 10 years more what is 1.5 $ velue of the steel comper to 30 years of forging and I forge a lot belive me it is 5 cents a year and you work faster easyer and get better results. Hofi
  3. you DO NOT HAVE TO PRE HEAT just weld as simple as is .the plat is miled steeI again NO NEED to pre heat .Element is 110 % right Hofi
  4. SORRY Forgot to say that ALL my slitters,drifts,punches.hotcut chisles,fullers are forged out of H13 only the big once to slit the hammer heads all sizes the axes are made out of TUNGSTEN Hofi
  5. I allways do this job of slitting and drifting with two or if a very big job three slitters of the same size . if you use one slitter and you must cool it some times three times for slitting one hole in that time you lose lots of heat but if you have two or three slitters in the line you never loose time and heat and slit the hole faster and easyer. the bigest comition I had was three big enterence doors and three window railing consisting on 1250 holes in 20mm round steel ( o.8'' ) with this tree slitter system. Hofi
  6. For more information BP 1050 BP 1051 BP 1035 BP 1025 Hofi
  7. HERE I attuch yhree photo's of my anvil with the stand ,tray,water can. and hardy tools, fork,cutter,and the base for the cone not finished yet. you can not see the guid pins. in to foto's I sent before one can see very clear the pins in the base plate and the two holes in the bottom of the anvil hope it is clear now best Hofi
  8. The suction of 12x12'' chimney will be only a bit more effective then 12'' round hofi
  9. When one use a round chimney then 100% of the area is working as suction but if one use a squar or rectangle chimney one have to deduct the corners because all the 4 corners are causing big friction and the air in the corners is mooving very much slower. To calculate the righ area when useing sqar or rectangle one have to diduct aprox 15% off from the calculated area. 12x12''=144 less 15% =122.4 squar '' hofi
  10. To my humble opinion the 5/8'' plate is too thin . But if you have no choise you may use the plate and connect the ''legs'' with a triangl or t shape crossmember in 1/3 of the hight of the legs from the bottom this will hold the constrction together . But again the thicker the plate the better !!!!!! Best hofi
  11. Avadon here by I atuch two pic's of fast drawing that I made .Hope it will clear and answer your question Hofi
  12. My name was mentioned here several times and i woul like to make my ''anvil stand'' system clear. Pic 1 the complete anvil stand consisting on 1 3/4'' steel plate cut acc to the anvil base pattern, grinded the legs are 2''x4'' hollow rectangle 1/4'' thick cut in 23 degrees a plate with an 1/2'' hole drilled welded to the bottom of the leg to secure the anvil to the floor from traveling. The plate is cut with an extension on the prichel hole sid to get more stability,more comfort when forging and for a place for the water can. Pic 2 the slot cut is under the prichel hole to let the drifts and other tools to get to the floor and for many other uses. Pic 3 -4 in the bottom of the anvil there are two holes that seats on the conical pins to prevent the anvil from moving on the plate. I use skaflex 11 fc to glue the anvil to the base to prevent the noise completely and absolutely ! (i never take the anvil apart) but if one wants to be able to take them apart smear the bottom of the anvil with a thin layer of oil before putting the anvil in place on the sikaflex. Hofi
  13. IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2009 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP1064 Slitting and Drifting by Uri Hofi The chisel. Mark the bar with the chisel. Pour some of the lube into the mark. Hit the chisel with the hammer only 2-3 times. Pour more lube into the hole. Repeat with the hammering and lube but DO NOT go all the way through the metal. Turn the steel over and repeat the same process from the other side. As the chisel will go through the metal this time, use a cutting plate to protect the face of the anvil. Mark the metal with the chisel, pour lube into the mark and hit the chisel with the hammer 2-3 times. You can see the fire that comes out from the slot because of the coke burning. Hammer the chisle into the steel and add more lube until you complete the slot . The finished slot. Drifting Align your drift into the hole. Place the metal and drift over a prichel hole so the drift can go through the metal. Hit the drift with the hammer 2-3 times. Remove the drift from the hole. Pour more lubricant into the hole. This allows the drift to slide through the metal easier. Hit it 2-3 more times and add more lube. DO NOT go all the way through the metal. Turn the metal over and now pour in lube and drift from the other side. The finished hole.
  14. IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2009 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP1062 Pyramid Template by Uri Hofi When I want or need to produce geometrical parts like pyramids, cones, pipe joinery, I like very much to use pattern development geometry or volume geometry. I am going here to demonstrate the pattern development of a pyramid, that the base is 7 inches and the height is 6 inches. The tools Thick cardboard, compass, ruler, right angle, Japanese knife and a sharpie. Mark on the cardboard long line with the right angel Two right angel lines to the first line 4 inches apart With the compass mark to both sides 8 inches and down to the bottom With the same 8 inch mark the 45 degrees. Line point on both sides Connect the bisect points to the apex and we get the 45 degrees lines Open the compass to 7 inches, the size of the pyramid base and mark the four corners of the square Connect the point 1-2-3-4 to get a square, connect points 1-3 with a line and we get plan a the view of the pyramid from above. Raise from points 1-3 up to bisect the upper parallel line Mark 6 inches that will demonstrate the height of the pyramid Mark the apex with o and then we get plan b the way we see the pyramid from the side on the diamond The finished plan a--b Now we are ready to develop the elevation of the pyramid templet Open the compass from point o to 1 and draw a circle as shown Open the compass to 7 inches of plan a and draw the marks on the circle starting from point 1 and on Mark the sections 1-2-3-4-1' Connect this points with lines which are the cords of the arc, then draw in the radial lines to the apex o With a Japanese knife cut the frame lines of the developed elevation outer lines 0-1-2-3-4-1'-0 Take the template out Cut shallow cuts along the radial lines and fold Get the pyramid 6 inches height 7 inches wide The tools again If one knows the basic rules of the volume geometry a templet like this takes no more then 15 minutes to do with the very simple tools Of the shop no computer no equations no mathematics
  15. IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2009 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP1060 Hinges and Lock Latches by Uri Hofi All the photos are of a commission of door hinges and lock latches Hinges and shafts for 4 doors Long latches for the upper part of the door. Latches for the bottom part of the door. Detail of the latch.
  16. IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2009 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP1059 Twists05 by Uri Hofi The elements in two versions are pickets for window railing. Material is flat steel 5/16 inches x 1-1/4 inches x 14 inches Marking the steel. In this case the element is in the middle 1-3/4'' from the middle to the sides will give 3-1/2'. With the compass we mark 5/16'' from both sides to leave 5/8 im the middle. The we connect the corners with a ruler on all four rectangles Grinding a notch on all four corners to help start the cut with the band saw. The cutting with the saw and the final cut. Heat with a rosebud in the center and twisting 180 degrees. Tthis operation and form is very beautiful on its own. Forging the small spirals from the cut points. Opening first with a screw driver. The forming with a small hammer all the four point. The same marking but now cutting with a hot cut chisel. The final cut. Forming two spirals only. Then heat in the center and twist 180 degrees, and finish the other two. The final form that we get with the hot cut system. and the spirles are been hammered to the sides a bit then the spireles overlap one another. the same can be done on squer steel here 1'' on all 4 corners. This is basics. The possibilities with the system are endless. This blueprint shows only the very basic forms which are beautiful but with different decoration and bigger steel we can forge very expressive forms. The man in the photos is Shay Vaknnin, a student of mine, that come twice a month to help me and learn.
  17. CHRIS FIRST OF ALL ''CONGRETULATION'' When I forged my first hammer 22 years ago (different from todays style) it took me 6 hours continuasly forging ,I was so happy and so very much joy thus when I came home I told my wife '' moove a side please to night I sleep with the hammer'' It was LONG time ago but I still remember this fantastic joy !! Hofi
  18. There are many sizes of this type press so I cannot answer the question. I only saw it working. Iis a very dengerous machin ! it is foot opperated and many people dameged sevirly one hand because of it. If you are going to use the press for your production pay attention that both hands ar out of the ramm place!! and do not let children to play with!!!!!!!!! HOFI
  19. This excentric prerss was used to cut lether patern with assoeted dies in our small lether factory. the stroke is all ways the same but the stage hight is adjusted with the wheel on the bottom HOFI
  20. sorry wrong button ALWIN I do not agree with your statement on paragraph 5 hammering section '' DO NOT USE YOUR WRIST'' to my opinion and experience the wrist is very important in speeding down (velocity in square) and raising up the hammer while forging. If one holds the hammer right with the palm of the hand almost parallel to the anvil with the thumb on the side and hold it light no harm and damage will happen. Hofi
  21. Hello erez can we meet on the chat now? Hofi

  22. If one calculate on 1832 degrees F the shrink/expantion factor is 1.2 % but on average forging temp which is 1500 F IT IS 1 % And those two numbers are easy to remember Hofi
  23. Alwin Not easy to teach and to learn and to understand blacksmithing or forging technique on the net. especiely when my English is not as good. The other thing is that most of the VDO's and photo's are taken from the side of the viewer the spctator and not the side of the blacksmith -the operator and there for the view is many times incorrect AND DECIVING But I''ll take the chalenge and try to answer your question the way I understood them. You''ll have to be patient with me because the preperation with the right photo's will take some time to preper. and I will post it here to this thread You do not have to apologise for asking questions to clear technique and to learn Just came home 10 pm forging 45 hammers and a bit tiered. best regards HOFI
  24. Hello harri i have with me only the hebrew translation of the resurch and artical that was printed years ago in the israely hosha quaterly . The moment i''ll get hold of the endlish version or how to get to the original i''ll send it to you best hofi
  25. Part 2 of the memmeluke artifax 010 -011 hinges 012 hing decoration 013-014 prt of bronze kneckless and the decoration 015 ring handle with decorated rhoset 016-017 hinge ,one can see the fibers of the wrought iron 018 row iron bars smelted and forged ready to forge 019 tools ( chisel, points of deeging tools or wepon)
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