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teenylittlemetalguy

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Everything posted by teenylittlemetalguy

  1. teenylittlemetalguy
    I remembered the tongs wrong, I thought I modified a different pair. these are ugly but you will get the idea.they were a set I made a log time ago so I did not mind playing with the idea. you can see the forged notch in the last photo.
  2. teenylittlemetalguy
    1400f for 8-10hrs
  3. teenylittlemetalguy
    yep. 1360f for 8-10 hrs is what they recommend in steve midgetts book.
  4. teenylittlemetalguy
    there is a steep learning curve for Mokume, any practice is better than none. try out silver. there will not be much difference when you get to gold except temps.
  5. teenylittlemetalguy
    Seattle? cool you are close. have you done any Mokume before? It is not really easy to get good results and there is actually a lot of wasted material learning Mokume. I would highly recommend not starting with precious metals. copper and nickel or copper and brass is a good place to start. I am told 1360f for 8-10hrs is a good place to start for copper/ nickel. copper/ brass 1580f for 8-10 hrs. I stay away from precious metals other than silver as I am not doing much jewelry. someone else may have advise on those.
  6. teenylittlemetalguy
    Welcome Adler. Where are you located? the additional heat is fairly inconsequential. The charcoal is there to absorb oxygen before the copper can get it and form an oxide that blocks the weld. What metals are you planning to weld?
  7. teenylittlemetalguy
    heck if you make it up we will throw a forge party and light a fire to cook that coffee on. Fantastic knife by the way.
  8. teenylittlemetalguy
    See you are getting even with me already Frosty.. maybe the tongs don't look good enough to share... ha! I will take a picture and post soon. they are not amazing. I had a pair of straight jaw homemade scrolling tongs and we just modified them to hold diagonal. what I really need now is to build a 90 deg jaw set that do the same thing. Love the scroll Jim. I think Diagonal looks so dang good in general. seeing my results brought back excitement like I had making my first decorative bend.
  9. teenylittlemetalguy
    happy to help. would love to see what you make.
  10. teenylittlemetalguy
    my buddy referenced the Steve Midgett book. it has a small chart that says 1360f for 8-10hrs for; Silver to Copper, nickel silver, bronze, kuromido and shakudo.
  11. teenylittlemetalguy
    Typically you would clean the dross off before pouring. The charcoal would go with it so you had a clean pour.
  12. teenylittlemetalguy
    No problem making a torsion plate, I was just excited and hurried it. I have some from TLP that would have worked but were all bigger than my container. I will now just make a bigger container. I don't want to use ss foil. i have some friends that do a lot of diffusion welding and I have been meaning to ask if they have a simple temp chart. Will let you know what they say.
  13. teenylittlemetalguy
    Since I seem to be able to post now... The whole point of staying below the eutectic point is to insure it is not a TLP weld. Because of entropy IF anything melts then the resulting alloy can be ANY ratio. Just because you have 50/50 Au/ Cu does not mean that the alloy is 50/50 unless you melt it all and know that there is no other possible combonation.
  14. teenylittlemetalguy
    Pv, my billet was in 10+hours. I am pretty certain it is clamping issue. I will retry soon. I am also experienced with TLP welds and making the change to solid state, I agree that diffusion welds need to be consolidated but I have had good luck withTLP and only consolidating 35% or so. Sounds like the solid state welds need a little more than that. Which is not what I expected. I keep getting forbidden on posts but would love to compare notes with you
  15. teenylittlemetalguy
    We sound like we are at eye exact same place. I just finished my temp control and have made one mostly unsuccessful run. i have been told by a pro that they set it about 50deg f cooler than eutectic. The reason is if there is any melt at all the resulting alloy could mix in ANY proportion along the melt line so you must protect for the lowest melt point. another thing I learned is that solid state billets are fragile until about 50% consolidated by forging.
  16. teenylittlemetalguy
    cool, I am near the Boniface gate. the issue being I have a new kid so not much time. I will PM you my phone # and we could talk a bit. the upcoming meeting is in town on the south side.
  17. teenylittlemetalguy
    where are you? I don't see a location in your info
  18. teenylittlemetalguy
    Amazing as always!
  19. teenylittlemetalguy
    The holes in the trunnions could have been feed and drain. I think the pressure concept is correct, that flange was there for a reason. Neat to see,
  20. teenylittlemetalguy
    I gotta step in here for a second. I am lucky enough to visit with frosty several times a year either at the meetings or at each other's workshops. It is always entertaining and educational. I have always been a maker but frosty has opened my eyes to new things and motivated me more than once. IMHO the world needs more characters like him. Aside from natural personality his life experience came from DOING things and that I think is most important. We will never have much to share with others like these fine examples do unless we get out there and do stuff. Even failures add to our value in the long run.
  21. teenylittlemetalguy
    the vinegar was cheap at costco.$2 a gallon and I don't have to mess around with a bunch of small different shape containers again after filling up a pail. I was planning on comparing activated charcoal like you have and regular hardwood lump like I have. bet the grinder works well. I have wanted to build a small ball mill for years now then I could do a lifetime supply in one batch... Heh heh....
  22. teenylittlemetalguy
    Using it I have had surfaces stick without even using a hammer. of course you need to hammer it all tight and solid but you can feel an initial stick. I find it comforting knowing the surfaces want to go together instead of fighting me. I like your prep work. vinegar is under used in most shops. I keep a 5 gal pail of it handy myself. I have not tried the wd40 trick I will give it a whirl.
  23. teenylittlemetalguy
    glad you got a chance to use it. would love to see the knife when you get it done.
  24. teenylittlemetalguy
    jerry is right some are lower temp. I use 3000 deg rated ones on the floor of my large forge. Should warn you that soft brick is a consumable. They are good and cheap but they are brittle. Kaowool lasts much longer but is not as easy to rearrange for a brick pile design.
  25. teenylittlemetalguy
    the fire will not be offended if one jaw is longer than the other... I have never seen anyone slit and drift a tiny hole for a rivet before, I would like to see the tooling.
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