teenylittlemetalguy

I am hoping we could talk about the hardware store cash account you mentioned. I could really use a discount there. Also has anyone else tried out Lee Sauders way of forging corners? I did a couple and was surprised how well it works, I hope to do a couple more at the the meeting. I wouldn't feel too bad about making the error Frosty, we all looked at it and it didn't dawn on us to check...at least you have an excuse... As a last note, I am looking for some scrap grating to purchase if anyone has some. I need some 16-24" square chunk to make a small plasma cutting table with. I will bring cash.

I figured propane was excessive.i was guessing you were making charcoal. It's what I would do in your shoes. I worry about the mess with waste oil, but I bet you need a way to burn waste oil anyway.

Obviously I like the two brick forge. It is ideal for a first because it is easy, cheap and provides plenty of heat. Admittedly it's main limitation is width, but even many wider projects can be done if planned out. I have made several hammer heads in one and a couple small 'hawks I wouldn't be surprised if a blade smith could point out an issue or two with its use for blades. I am not a blade smith but have made many blades in them and had no issues. I have since made larger forges and the lessons learned on the little ones saved me from expensive mistakes on larger ones. I like to use full solid sides to support my bricks. The sides of the brick don't get hot but the metal does conduct back and the sides get hot using metal sides. unless you plan on forge welding you would not have to coat the interior but it does help. If forge welding do coat the interior to protect it from flux. With heavy use plan on regular brick changes. solid side supports extend brick life as well.

It can be hard learning by yourself but not impossible. I know I really enjoy bouncing ideas off of other group members. Consider yourself one of the group and let us know what we can do to help. We will keep eyes open for anvils and anvil substitutes we normally do. I am in Anchorage. When you get dates and times set to come in let us know and we can work something out, with either Frosty or me. There are some others that may offer as well but just not see this post. I will PM you my info. What are you using for heat out there? We are mostly propane here.

Frosty, you can make Mt View jokes and still enjoy dinner. 8-) I love that they pretend to not know what people think of it. one would not be surprised to find out that there is two spherical reserve tanks buried at its base....

worst water tower ever....

I was good. he was flexible and we ended up cover a wider variety of topics. hit one of us up at the next meet and we can fill you in. we all came away with some new indexed top tools and a lot to think about. the heat treating topic we covered was eye opening. sunday he did a nice bear head demo.

since I was named for a Wagner opera (Tristan and Isolde) you would think I would have know that... but I am not cultured enough. I am going to find that story though, sounds worth reading.

wow, that sounds like a fantastic story. thank you for the pictures it worked this time.

I copied and googled and no tongs came up. 8-( I was surprised at how thick of a cross section the tongs were. I expected more delicate tongs as metal was expensive. guess he built them to last.

Sorry John, I misunderstood what you said. 7 am is too early. Pat wants to start about 9:30.

John, glad to hear you are making it. I talked to pat earlier and he knew of 3 more so with Frosty's 6 and the club members sounds like we are doing pretty decent. Maybe 20ish. Bryan is staying at my place and Jim is bringing his truck for my stuff but we could use an extra seat if you don't mind. I should be in the shop by 7:30 we plan to leave at 8. Halibut tacos sound great! I like the way you guys think.

He seems to have made a study of the candlesticks so it should be really good. I am oddly excited about the trace hook for some reason. maybe its the curves, I am a sucker for curves. I think I have spare 5/8 round if you need. I think Pat was going to pick up some more of the stock sized when he got the 4140, but not sure if he did or not.

No sweat on the wax, I have lots. only a scrap will fit in the handle anyway. I am going to put a bigger chunk in my toolbag, if I remember... I am so excited, this class has only been 2 years in the making. I already have everything laid out to go. Here is the list of other materials Mark Aspery asked us to have handy. 3/8 round bar in 6 inch lengths for making a short length of chain. Plussome spare 10-inch lengths for making a ring.1/2-inch round and square stock.6-inch length of 5/8 round for making a trace hook.3/4-inch by 1/4 inch flat bar - miner’s candlestick.

I appreciate the thought. should be pretty easy with my new tool basket. the worst part is the anvil is a bear to load all alone without a crane.

I am sure. we typically meet at my place and ride together when we can. I am concerned about weight this time. Jim will have a lot of gear I think and I will be loaded for bear.

I will be there! so dang excited. this has been two years in the making.

It is a straight hole 2-1/8" wide and extends the entire length of the bricks (9") . With this style to run right it must be a pass through design otherwise it won't burn complete. I prop a brick near the back door but leave it slightly ajar to help keep the heat in. but it runs just as well with nothing covering the back opening.

2-1/8" hole saw is what I used to cut the bricks and make the interior. Hourly consumption? never bothered to calculate it. a small propane tank lasts a very long time. I have the .025" tip in there and typically run 2-5 lbs of pressure and 8 lbs for welding.

Well worth the time. If your goal is to get metal hot then this is perfect . It is cheap, easy and hot. I weld with mine all the time.

Mechanics are really undervalued in my opinion, my dad was one the same age as your grand dad and the amount of skill involved was really an eye opener for me. I wish I had paid more attention then. Metalwork and mechanical skills seems to run in families. I had foundry men, machinists and mechanics all through my family. Not surprised you are drawn to it as well since you have a mechanic in the family.

I have made some. it turned greyish on me using ammonia fuming. but there are lots of different ratios it can be alloyed in and that could effect the patina greatly. I did 75 AG / 25CU but some use more silver.

I did not use a reducer but people do it and it works. here is a picture of how I do it. I adapted mine to run on a flexible hose. I prefer my burners on the bottom pointing up or on the side so I don't have to worry about the supply getting hot. I am also attaching Frosty's instructions for anyone that missed it. T Burner Directions finished.pdf