teenylittlemetalguy

it doesn't like to stick to itself at all, just kind of slides around instead sticking. very frustrating material to try and weld to itself. it welds fine to mild steel, just not itself.

funny that you missed it as I also missed it several times myself. the reference to the reduction is under the reaction paragraph. "When heated with finely divided carbon it can be reduced to chromium metal with release of carbon dioxide. " right or wrong wikipedia was enough to make me try it.

I apologize for insulting anyone, arm chair was uncalled for, I know you do a lot for the forum Steve. I am just so frustrated because I worked 2 years to make this happen and my results were questioned because I don't have any documents to back up my claims, instead of people trying it. I am not a scientist and I don't pretend to be one, I am an avid hobby blacksmith, surely you can take my opinions with a grain of salt? here is a link to a reference of carbon reducing chromium oxide. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromium(III)_oxide I honestly do not care why it works. I care that it does work and that some people here may want that info.

Thomas and Steve, sorry if this was not the technical document you would have preferred. but since no one has documented a way of doing this before you may have to live with my best guesses based on my reading and my trials. I suggest instead of just being armchair quarterbacks you get out there and try it. then maybe you could add some constructive criticism and help us all out. go try it, it works.

thank you. the fact that you could weld leaf spring to mild is what made me question the whole problem in the first place. Iron itself is reducing like carbon is and that is why it works. let me know what you think of it.

For the last couple years I have been researching a way to forge weld leaf springs because I was told I could not and I am hard headed... all my results left me empty handed till now. I want to share this info with you, my brothers. If you only use known steels I think this would apply to 5160 as well. Examples: attached are a couple photos to show test welds. In one you will see a Faggot weld that has been forged in line with the long axis of the weld to test the strength (over one inch wide hammered down to 3/16”) with no weld failure. the one you will see most of is the loop I forged and then cut to prove its strength. bent the ends around easily with no delam, in fact I think you will find that Leaf spring welds nicer than most mild steel. Why it works: I think most of you would agree the issue with 5160 or leaf spring is the small amount of chromium content they add. Chromium Oxide forms upon heating and is very stable and unaffected even at high temps by most acids and common fluxes. to get around this I make sure I am running my gas burner in a reducing range and the real secret is to add finely ground real charcoal to my borax (50/50 mix by volume will work). It needs to be nearly dust to work. if you leave it the size of sand it will likely fail. Carbon will reduce the Chromium Oxide back to Chromium and the flux can wash it out of the way. I have been calling this Alaska flux. I am interested in someone trying it with a known 5160, I don’t have any on hand to try.if you can please let me know what you think. If you are one that has issues with welding mild steel in a gas forge you should give this a try, you will be very pleased. sorry about picture quality. the crud on the bottom of this is some left over slag from the plasma cut on the leaf spring. I do not close all the way as I want to be sure the flux covers the whole face of the weld. it is blurry but there is a scarf under the fuzz of the flux. hoop before cutting close up on the open hoop. you can see the line, it did not split down this far, I left it only a short weld to really show it.

I am with you. It was cheap and good.

I am honestly sad to hear you have to drink coffee from a machine.

that is interesting thomas, thanks for the info. I have never had that issue before.

I am speaking solely from the position on gas forges. no experience with solid fuel. the only way it messes things up is if you end up with a puddle of liquid metal in it. there are many people that want to claim that doing certain things poisons your forge for other things. it is mostly malarky. I think it is mostly used as an excuse for not being proficient in what is being done. I forge Iron, Copper, Brass, Steel, Monel, Aluminum and Silver all in the same forge that I make Mokume in and Forge weld steel.

Don't forget the whole eye needs to be at welding heat as well as the blade where you are trying to make the weld. It needs to be hot so it doesn't act like a spring and pull your blade apart when you make the weld.

I am in anchorage as well. Will PM you so we can talk.

I am glad you are going to repost that. I myself am still scrounging around for a 30gal drum for the interior.

I am so glad! It does turn color quickly. Seems to stay plenty strong for a long time, I have only ever added to it for a few years. It is fairly slow at my wintertime shop temps of around 45-55f. Summer temps of 60-70f really works faster so be careful in the summer there. Also be very careful about the fumes it you put a piece in hot. They are pretty irritating to the mucous membranes.

thank you, I really like it as is. One needs to concern themselves with function. I am sure it will be enjoyed by the recipient.

Your work is always so nice. please tell me the welds underneath are arc welds so I can sleep a little easier....

Glad to hear there is more in your plans. What size wire rope are you starting with? it squishes down so much I like to use larger than 1-1/4". New or recycled? I like to use new with the grease still in it, although some others clean it.

Good effort. I really like welded wire rope. You may want to try a lot more twisting at welding temps. It really helps close the gaps and solidify the welds.

It was a good meeting. really pleased to see all the new faces. A big Thank You for Jim and his family for hosting it!

not to be a curmudgeon but I like his music much more than his gates.

My first weld took me a while to get worked out. if you are using gas there is even more things that can cause you issues.some help is a good idea. 1/2" stock is a pretty forgiving size for a first weld it will hold heat a little bit longer so you can get comfortable with the process.

Thanks guys

I will pm you the info, all are welcome

bubba. I don't understand 60/40? I thought the name Shibuichi meant 25/75? Is that not the case? I guess it wouldn't surprise me but 60/ 40 is just new to me, I have made all mine 25 silver75 Cu. I bet your works much easier than mine.

Garages are for tools, not cars silly. It snows lots here and the can never goes inside.