rustyshackleford

Did you mean to attach a photo Ed?

ahhhh :/ did the same thing with a 'rifleman's' knife... same consquence too I was able to draw my tip back out, but I'm not sure if you'll be able to do it with your dirk (can't tell how thick it is

Looks stout! You could also add some shims under the curved part, weld it up more solidly and use it on end (mass under the striking area, &such)

No biggie, here:

Good tutorial Ed, thanks for taking the time to make it so through. I've been making some spears for 18th cent. reenacting almost identical in shape to the one shown (just smaller). I've had the problem that one side of the socket is aligned with the body of the spear, and the rest sits offset (effectively 'crooked' though the tip is inline with the centre axis). Any tips on preventing this? Perhaps knocking the socket area over the side of the anvil to offset before rolling it? I'll add a pic if it's not clear

further digressing from the topic (nice axes btw, I teach about 18th century native life), it's true all over NC. They got Eastern Va a while back, and now they're moving father down. Last time I was in New Bern I stopped in the first place they sold Pepsi and the lady working it was from NJ! She said tons of folk were moving down, even she noticed the attitude change. Even in little washington, the podunk town north of Newbern they wee coming. Now I'm up In Boone closer to you Yance, and it's had the same problems that the area surrounding Asheville has. Even the recession didn't bring house prices, and tons of folk live in Tn and commute. :angry: (can you tell I'm tired of living here?) back on subject: did you use mild steel or wrought?

why do I have to be poor and in college... :)

Newbie: some good advice here so far. If you can find someone willing, ask to use their anvil to gauge your needs. Going to meetings is a great way to do this. A Nimba is different than a Euro is different than one of Hoffman's, and each user will tell you that they favor theirs because of practice with that tool, and importantly, the technique that they brought with them when they began using it. Someone said earlier that Nimbas put the most mass under the face... but the squat design leads me to think otherwise (still a great anvil, statement just seems counterintuitive) weight, face width, horn shape (cone or curve), face hardness, and hardy size are some of the most important considerations when looking at these different brands. Everything else is really optional and will depend on your willingness to spend, as well as the technique that you already have/wish to develop.

seems like I've seen one where it wasn't twisted as well... great effort, should be interesting to see a refined product

Work In Progress

Heck, I want 'em and I'm only 2 hours away.... :/ oh well, I guess this is more in my price range these days: Press

Great stuff Jesse. I was poking around the clothing dept of Walmart last night and I found some of the clothes that you mentioned earlier in this topic. I didn't really have time to check them out, but I would guess they were at least on par with Dickies.

Shoot man, sounds like a reason to get together. Good luck with it all

what weapon? it's an educational tool (history or physics, take your pick). By that standard, a Hallal koshering knife is a 'weapon' o_o

Isn't overkill the name of the game?

I'm having difficulty visualizing this, will someone pull out the big crayons and draw me a pic?

As far as them being historically correct: No. Forks were reserved for holding meat while it was cut (with exceptions for persons of means, who *might* have a fork, but it would be much nicer). It was also much easier to make a spoon out of wood, horn, or pewter than valuable metal, even wrought iron. Which, btw, your implements are made from mild steel, not wrought. For a ren faire: Yes, these are fine, but you may find that a wooden spoon has a better feel in your mouth because the metal spoon's shape is different than your home utensils, and you may bang your teeth (ouch)

Honestly man, buy one or make it out of Al or plastic. 1/4"x8"x3' piece of steel is 20.4 lbs, and that's before you pack on support pieces. if that's the route you want to go, you better get real on some forearm strength: forearm training

that thing may be junk, but it's perfect for this application. when I repaired my PW, I didn't get a perfect right angle on the piece I added, so it's kinda a pain to work with hardy tools.

143lb (have to check again on that figure) PW Face broken a heel corner (wrought still intact), some edge damage, some pitting, some torch gouging (very little) $99, and I'm sure the friend I bought it from didn't pay that much for it. Easily repaired with truck leaf spring and mig 47lb 'USA' ASO $75 (yuck) has held up alright, purchased as cast from the factory no damage.

The 4.5" Hitachi is serving me well, and probably gets the most regular use (between it and the champion drill press). My high school welding shop (which was the community college shop as well) had Bosch and Milwaukees.

French rasp-making: YouTube - SARL FTP piqueur de r

if they were authentic, would hey not be wrought? Neat project

Is that you with Hofi, or Jesse James? :p