rustyshackleford

I got somewhat disaffected when I began to 'smith, and other things like going to school interfered (although that boredom usually kindled my interest, pun intended). the disafection came from poor technique, and lack of resources. That was five or six years ago, and things are different now. As I've mentioned, I am now trying to turn my avocation into a vocation, and that provides a lot of fuel (oh I'm on a roll today). This past week I felt a little burned out because I have been diligently working on my items, but have had few buyers. I'm mostly over that now as a Trade Faire is soon approaching, and with it, the potential for a wholesale account. That being said, I am not near my forge everyday, and the drive to make items give me vigor. I make one or two types every time I fire it up, and the experience offers me a new challenge, and by the last item, a new product (typically) under my belt. I feel my biggest drawback is a lack of artistic creativity. I have great spatial skills, but the other also serves to discourage me. Lots of duality. To quote vonnegut: "And so it goes." :)

I forged for about five hours today It felt good t get back to it. I've been looking at Penland's offerings for next fall, is anyone else planning on attending?

Got the PW for $100, the other for $75. heel on the PW was chipped, repaired by me with leaf spring and MIG.

I enjoy the look of a swedish hammer, it seems like it would be affective at fullering (not to open a discussion on effective hammering technique). That being said I've never used on, always german pattern, or american (with the octagonal style head). Can anyone attest to a Swedish? I plan on aquiring one soon, and would love to know what you guys think

I'm keen to make a veiner soon so that I can start banging these out. I tend to keep my stems shorter to the leaf. To take a survey, how many use a loose chisel, home made veiner, or commercial veiner (a la centaur/Kayne)? other than the length, my method is almost identical to yours for wrapping the stem

I am considering going there to continue my extended education, since I'm as close as I am

wish we had that up here. It's already getting chilly

Seconded on the interest! I am looking to incorperate a gas burner as part of my shop, and this design is appealing to the eye and the wallet

I got a bunch of those and did the same thing. cast them into slimfast cans b/c they were steel instead of Al.

I just talked to Hern, their 11x11x4 block is something crazy like 130. they also have hardy mandrels for 25. all cast grey I beleive. floor mandrel is 550

Coal!!!! I would estimate 150lbs price? f-r-e-e! story is, a truck tipped over in the road, and spilled it all. I asked the guy whose lot it was in, and got permission for it all. I'm so releived, I was just running out. a local school has some for free too, and I'm going to get it as well since they converted to electric

Anyone know of, or dealt with, Hern Iron works in OH? they have some swages for sale, mandrels too

yes! see, I knew I had not looked hard enough, my thanks!

I make repro trade rings from the eighteenth cent. I'm wanting to get into silver smithing, but can't find a good source for materials, short of ordering online, which I abhor the thought of. anyone know if *cring* ebay is a good source for raw materials?

speaking of the last post.... what's the story on those guys? what are their prices, especially for those vaughns. do they have an analogue here in the US? I know centaur carries an 108lb, but.... dang.

western nc/blue ridge/ "high country"/whatever. the place has been stripped of what little history it ever had, and what you are fortunate enough to find is over priced, due to the tourist market. in an adjacent county there is a man that used to sell anvils, but on a recent trip, he had but two, complaining of the high prices ($3/lb+) that he was having to pay for them. a ~250 lb vulcan was for sale for $750. he also had some sledges, one of which was a cross pien (the others double or straight railroad types). I have yet to make a trip down to Kayne and son for their monthly meetings, and would love to talk to all smiths who live in NC

creative, and ultimately better than mine (I don't have one...) but there's two of you...why doesn't one of you just act as a striker?

I feel traitorous for helping you with this.... skaters choose rails that are very smooth on top, so that they may have a longer grind per attempt. Disrupt the flow and discourage the riders. "Nubbins" perhaps? make them gentle, for hands though. Perhaps a finial type design would suit the application

I would use the stainless for this project. 1.Find a base about 1/4"=1/2' thick, make it circular with a tab on the back. 2.TIG on a vertical hinge to this tab. 3.Find a similar size stainless tube, cut it about 3" tall, then mark an inch from the top, and cut most of the way through the pipe, leaving a 1" square tab. 4.Opposite of this tab, and at the bottom, weld your other hinge tab, making sure it seats with the other properly. 5.Bend the 1" tab at the front down, finish the hinge at the back, and 6.Find a disk that will fit into your pipe. Attach a knob to this and clean it all up. When using, press the patty, then twist the disc as you lift it, to break any suction. hope it makes sense, ask if it doesn't!

often small tools of a spring persuasion would be tempered in either lead or sheep tallow. heat the medium, insert the piece, cook it and cool it. Now, that is for springs, not what you asked about, but I'm sure a similar process would be adequate. Making gravers perhaps you can use this if you can find graver blanks. I know that some ameture locksmiths use brick strapping for their tools, although this may prove too thin.

I'm rather impressed, especially for an inaugural attempt!

not that there is a question about public opinion, but my friend owns one of these, as well as the next size up from Lowes/HD. He and I concur that both are too small even for a hobby blacksmith like him. You obviously know the application, but there's my $.02; hope you enjoy your rig!

I'm sure it's been answered elsewhere before, but what is a ballpark for the materials?...new, let's say

I have, just recently in fact. The base stock was some 3"x.25" sq. (give or take on the length) and the finished shears are about 2" long. I'm sure you were thinking of something a little larger but there is an example of the small end of things. they are pretty basic to make. Shape the blade (half a leaf, beveled if you want), forge the tang out (simple tapering). The hardest partis remembering to place the base of the tangs on the cutting edge side, and making enough space for the rivet boss that will still allow the shears to close parallel to each other. if/when I can get some pictures I will show it in a blueprint. Hope this helped, if it didn't ask what you need to!

you are correct frosty, and it may be my ignorance, but refacing seems like a valid idea for it. However, it's not that big of a deal as it's my "traveler". I have not checked yet Matt, what's a good test, grinding some hidden portion for sparks? I do know that it's getting a low spot or two from poor hammer technique, alas! ;)