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I Forge Iron

J. Bennett

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  • Location
    Oregon
  • Interests
    Smithing/steel making
  • Occupation
    Build planes

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  1. Hello. I'm looking for a home, surface nitriding technique, if that is possible. It's more for a durable surface coloring system, than a hardening scenario. I know they do that for high end plumbing fixtures and such, but in a million dollar vapor deposit chamber. Any cool ideas out there? Thanks.
  2. Yeah, I'll have to keep the pre heat to a minimum so it sucks the heat out of the weld faster.
  3. The steel face is awful thin. Down to about 1/8 inch. A cracked edge on 1 corner. It's a block anvil. Lots of rebound and no ring. Typical Fisher. I hope to keep it's personality. EDIT: Can't find a pic of the old girl. Here is a place to go, to see some of my more, refined thermite escapades.... YouTube - steelace1p1's Channel
  4. Those are good points! I chose 4340 because even in it's annealed state, it's quite stiff. Heck, even at forging temps, it's quite stiff. As for the information, I'm going on something like my 275th pound of thermite over the years. Lots of trial and almost as much error.;) An occasional success, here, and there. I do , finally, have the refractory down though. Took awhile....
  5. Thanks. Yeah, me too. That's my favorite anvil. Going to use 4340 sheet. 1" thick. I got the refractory down to use for the form. Should take about an 8 pound charge, to produce a 4 pound weld. I can always do 2 runs, if there isn't enough.
  6. I'm going to try it. It might take 2 runs. You just need to make a form, put the anvil on it's side and pre heat the joint/face with a big rose bud. That's all. I have a favorite Fisher that needs a new face. I'll post it if y'all want. ... when I get around to it.
  7. That's true. I heard someone say once; "You need the right combination brains and brass when messing with large thermite charges. Too much of one and not the other, will inevitably get you in some form of trouble". Welcome, BTW. Don't be afraid to ask the bold questions and try new stuff.
  8. Happy b-day!!!!!

  9. Hi ya Steve. Yep. You still need a lot of heat for alloying tungsten though. That's were ferro alloying chems come in handy.
  10. Cool links, as usual Czar:) You don't need to reach the melting point of refractory alloys.. BUT you should try to get close. I did it, but used ferro tungsten. a little easier than using elemental tungsten. here is how I did it. YouTube - Boiling Iron
  11. Can do! Grandpa was a SeaBee, (plank holder), and was stationed at Pearl when it happened. His unit was the first on the scene, and began work, even as the attack was going on.
  12. Wow. It's not Rodeo season, so you must have been lost.
  13. Nice. I like this site, although I mostly lurk here. Lots of good stuff in the archives. The alchemy and formulas, is right up my alley, so to speak. A little off topic, but someone said you can't throw a dirt clod in Oregon without hitting a smith. We need a giant hammer-in here. I'd volunteer, but I only have an acre.
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