Hillbillysmith

If I was able to find the heel, I would reattach it... But, sadly, I had no luck in doing so. I suspect the break happened long ago and it is long gone. I had hopes that it got broke at the scrap yard and I would be able find it. -Hillbilly

I acquired this little guy yesterday at the scrap yard for $0.26/lb!! Whilst missing practically an entire 1/3, it still weighed in at 124lbs. I will be going back to search the cast bin for the heel. I can't find any numbers to figure any weight system on it but it has 1889 casted on the base. Upon quick inspection, I could not decipher any steel face on it from cast as it appears to be all cast by looks of the broken section. -Hillbilly

Welding machines themselves are CALIBRATED to a specific output typically within 10%.... So, for example, if you set the machine at 100 amps; a calibration tolerance of 10% would be anywhere between 90-110 amps ACTUAL output. different welding rods (types/thickness) have a range of amperages according to the manufacturers' specs. Depending on thickness of material, volume of material, position, what you are trying to accomplish, and the polarity, the amperage will change.... -Hillbilly

I literally think my IQ dropped a few points watching that video.... Excellent talent J.C, best be sure to put that on your resume. -Hillbilly

Most of the time it's about preference, BUT, the proof is in the product. Many different manufacturers make loads of quality equipment and consumables but Lincoln Electric has and owns affiliate companies who specialize in this type of application. Do the research and call the people who work with this stuff everyday. The welding suppliers like Airgas, Airco, Linde, OEMeyer, Aga, etc. just reference booklets distributed by the manufacturer themselves. For surfacing questions, contact some of the following; Weartech International Techalloy Metrode (^^owned by Lincoln Electric^^) Crown Alloys For what you are trying to accomplish, grading through sand and all, you'll want to be looking at abrasion resistance more than impact and the way you measure that is with a hardness scale. Brinnell and Rockwell are the most commonly used scales with the Rockwell C scale typically coming out on top. If you're just looking for something that is just stupid hard that will resist wear the most, look into a carbide coating like Royal 240 by Crown alloys. -Hillbilly

Personally, I would spark-test a near by spot on the horn for closer identification of the material used on the horn. Then, I would use slight localized preheat in the groove to be welded even if it was just wrought iron simply because of the sheer mass of the material and to drive off any moisture. I doubt there would be any oil or grease to speak of. -Hillbilly

I explained the flame-straightening method because I naturally assumed you would have a set of torches befor you would have an arbor press.... Pressing it would be faster. -Hillbilly

E-7014 will leave porosity and holes!!! The ONLY stick electrode that is designed for (let alone rated) downhill progression is E-6010 & E-6011. Thats it. Keep it in the horizontal position, counter-bow as I've explained, and carry on. -Hillbilly

You think thats bad, make that from 316 stainless!!! You've already welded one and now it smiles at you, turn it over so it frowns and measure how much arch it has from the table to the inside if the arch.... Shim the next one in the middle that much and clamp only at the ends after you get the three pieces tacked together then weld using the same parameters as you did before. Once you finish welding, let it cool just a bit (not till ice cold) and release it. To straighten the one thats already welded, take your oxy-fuel torch and heat the outside of the arch down the length only on the edges where the pieces got welded on. Not till it's red hot, just till you start to move colors. Apply a clamp to the center and drive the arch down slowly, little but at a time and let cool. Keep doing this until straight. -Hillbilly

You are right, it's not "rocket science" but you ARE the one ASKING the questions.... I completely understand that you want to go cheap as possible, as I do the same on everything, but buying a set of pre-existing plans for you to study and familiarize yourself with the operational assembly and other mechanical aspects of the item THEN you can figure out how you can substitute different material. Anything powered be it mechanical, hydraulic, pneumatic, steam, diesel, electric, gasoline, PTO, etc. have momentum, inertia, and other forces working with and against it. 1) Making the overall machine big/heavy enough is one factor you need to consider. 2) The energy required to drive the hammer needs to be powerful enough. 3) The mass of the hammer needs to be heavy enough to form / deform / mold / shape the size and shape of the material you are forging. 4) The anvil (and hammer) NEEDS to be solid otherwise you will have a loss of energy transfer due to vibration and sound caused by that vibration. 5) The entire machine needs to be build/assembled with enough structural soundness to handle the abuse the power hammer will be inflicting upon itself. Answering your initial questions: 1) The ram will be solid in some way, shape, or form. You could either use a solid piece of steel or use a tube and fill it with sand or lead but, if you use filled tubing, expect quicker deformation and warping of the tube due to less structural soundness of the tube itself. 2) Not really. The most ideal way is to buy a drawing plan and work from that. You can, however, do more and more research on how these different types of machines are build because they are all built differently according to their power source and intended purpose. 3) Solid, solid, solid..... The more density (with proper strength and hardness) the better, creating more inertia. 4) I am assuming you speak of railroad rail (the track the train drives on)( instead of the car's axel. There are distributors that deal in railroad rail to the public and it is sold by the yard (3 feet 91.44 cm) and weighs 33+ lbs. per foot (100 lbs. per yard). Again, do more research as I do not recall the specific distributor. 5) This should be the amount of power the machine will produce. Can be calculated by factoring the weight of the "hammer" along with the speed in which it will strike. This will only be an approximation due to other extenuating factors such as trying to calculate acceleration over that short distance, wind resistance for the shape/ size/ surface texture/ temperature/ etc. of the "hammer", friction of the pivot points, etc. (most of which are negligible but they do exist). In my opinion, I think you need to get MUCH more information on the basic principles of how different power hammers work, designs of the different machines, why those designs are used, as well as principles of forging. I only say this because a few of your questions are just plain common knowledge of the metalworking craft. It is understandable that since you are new and don't know certain things yet, asking questions is the best way to find the answers but, then again, if you are truly THAT new to this, you are definitely not ready to go building a power hammer. Seems like you are biting off more than you can chew. -Hillbilly

Where would I find the "postmaster" book that some on here refer to when others are looking for history and information on anvils?? Through all my searching I have been unsuccessful. Any and all help is appreciated. -Hillbilly

Ther are aluminum/copper extension cord charts available. Google it. 10ga over 100 feet should be suitable enough to run a 110v welder. The rest of the circuit wel be the issue.... Too much of a headache, just drill it out and bolt the hinge on. Cheaper than a 100 foot extension with no chance of a fire in the barn. -Hillbilly

DSW is spot on with his information. The best bang for your buck is going to be an old Lincoln Tombstone. As everybody says, they're "bullet proof". An AC/DC type machine is more desirable because they have more capability than an AC only machine but they are much more expensive. I have an old AC only tombstone that was my grandfather's and it sat in a dilapidated garage getting snowed and rained on for close to 20 years. I am in possession of the machine now an it works like a champ. I have only heard of 1 ever going bad, I mean SHOT and it was an extreme situation. All the coils inside the machine ended up melting into a big copper blob! :wacko: Other than that ONE incident, only thing I've heard of going bad are stupid things like a stinger, ground clamp, plug end getting ran over, etc. I would recommend an AC/DC type but if Its not in your budget, well, not much you can do about that. Gotta start somewhere! You can always upgrade. Here's a breakdown of the common welding rods and their capabilities: E-6010 is a high penetration electrode with a fast freezing puddle. Runs on DC+ polarity and is used on mild steel designed to penetrate deep into thicker material and good for filling gaps. Capable of welding through light rust and dirty material. E-6011 same as E-6010 but can be ran on either DC+ or AC polarity. E-6013 is a low penetration electrode with a fast(er) freezing puddle. Can be run on either DC+ or AC polarity and is used on mild steel designed for sheet metal applications. E-7018 is a medium penetration electrode with a fluid puddle. Can be ran on DC+ or AC polarity and is used on mild steel designed for structural applications typically superseding an E-6010/E-6011 root pass. This is what they call a low hydrogen electrode or "lo-hi". These are meant to be kept in a rod oven to keep moisture from wicking into the flux. *NOTE* E-7018, according to AWS D5.1 specification, can be ran on DC+ or AC but in reality, a lot of them run horrible on AC current. Some manufacturers have an E-7018 AC that is MEANT to be run on AC. These run much better than the typical ones. -Hillbilly

*CLARIFICATION* multiple cylinders run from a single engine, pump, valve combination will self-equalize due to path of least resistance... Trying to run multiple cylinders with multiple power sources is a WHOLE NEW BALL GAME. -Hillbilly

Should not matter as the hydraulic fluid will equalize during pressing operation unless you are trying to press something with an odd shape like a pentagon, triangle, trapezoid, etc. which will create an unbalancing situation regardless. Just be sure you have a pump rated for the flow and pressure needed and enough power to back up the pump. -Hillbilly

Anachronist 58: DCEN is only used in a CV (constant voltage) operation when the flux cored wire is of a self-shielded type (innershield). Gas shielded flux cored wire (outershield or dual shield) is still run on DCEP. Just so nobody gets confused. -Hillbilly

Disassemble torch entirely and pray out with brake cleaner until residue is clean and blow out with air.... -Hillbilly

I believe everything stated here has, in fact, been in the interest of the initiated discussion about copper (everything from line/unlined cookware, water delivery systems, to the hardware used in the distillation process).... Copper is an amazing element as well as its alloys. Copper can be used as a transition material when welded to practically all other metals, it is an alloying element (in some degree) in practically all other metals (carbon steels, stainless steels, aluminum, brass, bronze, aluminum, titanium, the list goes on and on...). Yes, it is toxic to SOME DEGREE but realize; it is also an essential element/mineral vital for human life just as iron (Fe), calcium (Ca), carbon ©, silicon (Si), magnesium (Mg), sodium (Na), potassium (K), ALL of which are on the periodic table. As said, it more the matter of quality vs. quantity (too much of a good thing can be a bad thing) as well as combining one element or compound with another (bleach and ammonia for instance). Combining copper with acidic foods especially at elevated temperatures causes the acid to extract excessive amounts of copper as well as possible copper oxides from the container allowing it to be ingested. Copper is used for water lines because of its anti-microbial properties as water is typically considered a neutrally balanced liquid (PH 7 give or take) even with water at elevated temps, it will not pull any bad amounts of the element. Everything in terms of knowledge of the alloy as well as its effects to its food grade properties stated by Sam and everybody else is valid. Far as the solder goes, only certain (cadmium/lead free plumbing solder) is currently considered to be up to food grade quality. Trusting the container; yes (as long as you are informed of the caution of acidic foods), trust in the unknown "solder" used as a joining material; absolutely NO. If you question it, best play on the safe side. -Hillbilly

shouldn't have any troubles only doing a 45 especially with that large of radius. I agree, test piece it first. And, if you are that worried about it, then use a dye penetrant and inspect the inside and outside radii for cracking. -Hillbilly

My thoughts exactly Ian. Jr used to have "Knowledge must be shared or else it lies dead in the mind" as his 'signature'. These words among a FEW others have been permanently etched upon my memory. Words of the wise from a few of the old dogs. I agree, many things on here become a pi$$ing match between many talented people which is sad. I have come to learn that there are 101 ways to skin a cat, therefore, not ONE way is correct in the welding industry. -Hillbilly P.S; Has anything happened to Jr (irnsrgn)?? Haven"t heard from or seen anything from him in a LONG time...

I think you are biting off more than you can chew at the moment ESPECIALLY if you are wanting to join aluminum AND cast it but don't know how to do either one.... One thing at a time: if you are wanting to join aluminum, pick a process. The available choices you have are; SMAW (stick), GMAW (mig), GTAW (tig), OAW (oxy-fuel), soldering, riveting, and epoxy. The process you choose will be solely dependent upon what you are trying to accomplish. Welding is the most commonly used joining process and out of the welding processes, GMAW (mig) and GTAW (tig) are used the most with tig having the higher quality and better visual appearance as compared to mig. With the tig welding process, high-frequency AC current is used with an argon or argon/helium mixed gas is used. Helium is added because it has a higher ionization potential than argon which creates a "hotter" arc, meant for thicker sections but only a maximum of 75% helium mix is used since argon is needed for the "cleaning action" to break down the oxides that form on aluminum at atmospheric temperatures. Argon is most commonly used as the cost is approximately 1/4 that of a helium mix. Tig has the highest initial cost but is worth it for quality and appearance. With the mig welding process, DCEP current is used with the same gases as tig for the same reasons. Both mig and tig welding can be used to join MANY different alloys in addition to aluminum. A preheat is usually used on thick sections of aluminum (thick, in this case being 1/4" or thicker) because of the high thermal conductivity associated with the material. The best thing you can do has already been suggested; take some welding courses at the local technical/career center then make your decision. "You need to learn to walk before you can run"!! :ph34r: -Hillbilly

Are you asking how HARD or how STRONG aluminum is?? These two terms can mean VERY different things!! If you are referring to aluminum's HARDNESS (such as Rockwell A/B/C scales, Brinell, etc.) then it is quite soft. Obviously, various grades and forms of those grades will differ but in general, aluminum is soft. You definitely won't be making a knife out of it any time soon.... Far as STRENGTH goes, the different grades vary SIGNIFICANTLY as Frozenforge has said. Structurally, aluminum (given the proper grade for the application) can be equally as strong as structural (A36) steel with roughly 1/3 the total weight. In situations like this, you have to be very specific when asking the strength/hardness/toughness/ductility/brittleness of a certain material being used under specific applications whether it's a statically loaded or cyclically loaded structure, a chemically or corrosively resistant tank, color matching (when welded) after anodizing for something artistic, etc, etc. the list goes on and on... The strength of aluminum drops when welded especially certain alloys that are heat-treatable alloys such as 6061-T6, which is a very commonly used material. The right questions get the right answers. -Hillbilly

Tips are just clogged from soot?? Get a set of tip cleaners from Home Depot and clean the orifices out first. Then you can spray them with anti-spatter (it is solvent-based, also great for removing paint from metal *hint*) and let all the soot run out. Then soak in acetone to clean out the anti-spatter. Lastly, blow out with compressed air and be sure it is dry dry DRY before you put back together. -Hillbilly

John M, you are certainly correct with the densities of the different materials and such (I/H-beam vs RR rail) for use as an anvil but I have to question something as I am curious and love an intellectual debate of materials science :D 1) Far as material choices go: think about back in the day when anvils were manufactured as an entire wrought iron body with a heat treatable alloy (tool steel) affixed to the face to be more impact resistant and keep from chipping. If the typical structural material of an I/H-beam (A36) is too soft, what about the wrought iron from the olden days?? Other than the fact the wrought iron was solid with no spaces under the face like a beam would be with just a plate welded to it. 2) You made the comment about the composition of the material was designed to spread the stress. To my knowledge, the overall surface area of the load-bearing structure is what spreads the stress and the type of material being used is softer making it more ductile to keep from failing whilst moving from mother nature and any causes of vibration or impact. I'm not arguing with what you're saying because I believe it to be valid but I'd like you to clarify if I'm incorrect or if I'm just going further in depth. I, too, work in the manufacturing field as a welder/fabricator. -Hillbilly

If it's a non-structural application and you don't want to worry about it breaking, drill and bolt it. But if you truly are set in your ways of welding it, preheat to minimum of 350 degrees and weld with a nickel-based filler material such as E-309 (as jmccustomknives said). Any 300-series stainless will work but more costly than mild steel filler. With same preheat, use E-7018 rod and peen the weld to reduce cracking. Far as post weld heat treatment; I find that unless the tooling material is THIN or classified under the "Air-Cooled" type, just let it cool in the ambient atmosphere (roughly 70ish degrees). -Hillbilly