chris freeman

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  1. Neil, As I did state in the first or second post, I did normalize. 3 heats. I truly think it decarbed because of too many heats. I guess from the way I worded it it sounds like that. I ment to say, I normalized 3x then brought it back up to temp and quenched. Thanks though.
  2. yes I did normalize it. I brought it up to critical temp then reduced it to just under and quenched. I didn't think I over heated it. They weren't course crystals. they were actually very fine. I actually probably heated it too many times during the forging process. I bet I did get excessive decarb from that.
  3. I've been using canola oil for years now. I've not had many problems except for recently. I have been trying to get a big bowie knife quenched. I forged it out of leaf spring. It would not harden. At least with a file check. The file seemed to dig in every time. I tried 3 or 4 times. Finally I tried water. The file seemed to dig even still but it warped my blade. I tried to straighten it and it broke. The broken ends were very crystallized. I guess it hardened. But why didn't the file skate off? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Chris
  4. I live in Colorado and I hear alot that forced air is recommended here. I see alot of atmospheric burners here so, what gives? Personally I think it's a pain in the xxx to have forced air. I am currently in the process of deciding on building new burners that are either Frosty's T burner style or bell reducer style. I was wondering what the difference is between the two. Does anyone have any insight on which is better? I'm looking at both styles but am kinda leaning towards the T burners. I'm thinking that since I'm at @ 5000' above sea level then the T burner would produce more O2 mixture. So????? Thanks, Chris
  5. Thanks a ton guys! I'll start with the floor. keep ya posted.
  6. I don't have any idea of what I would swap my blower and gas jet with. I'm a single dad of 3 teenage boys so I do everything on a budget as I always have. If I can build it I will. I buy materials as needed though. I did but the plans for that forge 10 years ago. Is there a post with a tutorial to show me how to build a better forge? I'm all for it. Actually I'd like to get the one I have working well instead of rebuilding a whole new one. I've always been that way. I will also redo my profile so it's done right. Thanks for the help Frosty I guess I meant a tutorial for a different burner.
  7. No it's just a 1" brick, I thought about that and am going to insulate it.
  8. Thanks Mikey, I actually bought the plans for the forge and burner 10 years ago and i know it's a good design as a lot of smiths have used it and still do. I just don't know if the mods that I've done have made it not do as well. I'm not familiar with baffled walls, although the flame is kinda hard to see, I do know what it's supposed to look like and it is a good crisp blue flame. I thought i was using the proper castable refractory. It fires real well and does withstand the heat very well. It does not burn, melt or deform at all. I've used stuff that didn't withstand that kind of heat but this stuff that I ordered does and it hardens very well. I just don't like the cracking. If you have a suggestions on something better then please, I'm all ears.
  9. By the way, the doors have 1.5" of kaowool lining as well. The space as of right now is about 10" deep X 6" high. I don't know how to get the cubic inches but that's the space I'm heating. I guess the other question I have is, is that too much area for one burner with forced air. I live in Colorado so I can't do atmospheric. Please and thank you again for any help. Chris
  10. This is not the first time i have applied refractory cement to my forge. In fact I've done it several times. I've been having a hard time getting my forge up to welding temp and staying there long enough to weld at a efficient rate. I doubled up the kaowool hoping that reducing the space would help. I only have one burner in my propane bottle forge. I applied a coat of refractory then filled in the cracks that weren't actually too bad. When That cured the cracks were much worse. I let it cure for 48 hours both times. I want to fire it but don't want any cracks as the goal is to not let any heat escape to behind the refractory lining. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how they took care of it. I could fill in the cracks again but it seems that they would just come back through. I also was wondering if I should fill in the cracks then fire it on low heat. then obviously increase to complete the firing process. Thanks, Chris
  11. There are a few tutorial on you tube on how to make a pneumatic graver machine. That's the route I'm going.
  12. good stuff. i aggree. usually thats how it goes and always has. if i can just fix it i will. -chris
  13. hey dave, if i quench it in canola oil, will that work for hardening it? it's all i have right now.
  14. yeah, the whole " make new ones" is the best advise. they are very old. and i have already cut off the mushroomed ends. the buiseness ends are fine but some of the striked ends are cracking. i know they're not wrought iron or even low carbon steal because they spark like XXXX. very vibrant... another words i've done a spark test on all of them.