Hillbillysmith

I agree... I understand it throws sparks and slag, but it can make a wonderful cut if you know what you're doing. -Hillbilly

Bud light soda.... -Hillbilly

First thing is first: how "flat" is FLAT to you???? You talking between 1/16"-1/8" or sub 0.020"? If you don't mind cutting, about the fastest thing you can do is cut off the top and stitch weld it to either C-channel or I-beam stringers on the bottom then reattach to frame.... If you want it in the 0.010"-0.020" flatness range, it's EXTREME work which is too much and too complicated to post on here. Not to mention you would need calibrated straight edges, feeler gauges, and layout bluing of that magnitude to check it.... -Hillbilly

I'm seriously thinking we need a little more common sense here people... It's a gear, they are SOLID. Regardless if it's cast STEEL or cast IRON, the density of either two is great. As JNewman stated, a 300 pound gear that is 3 FEET in diameter is not all that thick.... I do, however, agree with the rest as i would be opposed to welding such an item. Not because of strength issues, seeing as cast is welded and repaired all the time and put back into service, but because it is being used in a decorative manner. I weld and repair for a living and stick welding is DEFINITELY not a conscientious choice for decoration.... All too often people over-do things (ie; 1.5" rod for the legs on this project for instance) which just drive up the weight and cost. To displace a 300 pound load safely in a residential setting, four legs of a 3/4"-1" diameter will be sufficient, just distribute the load at the floor itself with 4"-6" pads (smaller gears perhaps?? B) ). Use the 3/4"-1" rods to set vertically between the teeth of the gear with a bottom plate on each rod for the gear to set on. Just be sure of the "twist factor once you get the gear set so it doesn't rotate and collapse the legs in that scenario but lets face it, it's a 300 pound gear which will not move all that easily. And, if you're worried about it being top-heavy and tipping over, just ensure that the diameter of which the tips of the legs at the floor set are of a larger diameter than the gear itself by approximately 25% (example; 36" table top [gear] the pattern of the legs at the floor would be 45"-48" diameter)..... Best of luck to you and please post pix for us all to see! -Hillbilly

How do you get such a smooth finish on the cone portion when forging???? I'm always left with tons of hammer marks... -Hillbilly

When you clean the tip; the tip cleaners are mini files and the shave off soot and metal which can fall into the tubing where your fuel gas (acetylene) and oxidizer (oxygen) mix (hence mixing chamber). With the debris in there, it restricted flow of your gasses. Since acetylene burns at a high rate of speed and since the mixing chamber has an oxygen content, it allowed the torch to create fire inside the mixing chamber..... What is meant by "crank up the acetylene until the soot burns away"; when you crack the valve and light the acetylene, look art the air 6-12 inches above the flame. There is black soot rolling off. When you turn up the acetylene high enough, that black soot will quit. That is optimal fuel gas before yo open the oxygen valve. You use the oxygen to balance the flame to a neutral flame meaning not too much oxygen (oxidizing flame) and not too much fuel gas (carberizing flame). -Hillbilly

Not sure how I forgot about the 1/7th rule for fuel gasses... I agree with this. -Hillbilly

Did you make sure to take the tip off before cleaning or turn the oxygen on while you cleaned it so you don't get debris down the head/tube????? I would say that could be the culprit or you have the wrong tip for the fuel gas you're using. Propane/natural gas is a different tip than acetylene. O-ring doesn't get replaced too often but never hurts. Buy a NEW tip and shoot some shop air through the rosebud head/tube. I've had issues before where a seemingly good tip with a proper cleaning just won't be up to par. -Hillbilly

Look online for the method of making an "orange peel cap" for piping.... I've done this with 3" pipe before. Best if luck. -Hillbilly

There's always cold bluing for firearms. That should turn it. -Hillbilly

I agree.... But tig welding what you describe CAN be done, just so it's known.... Definitely not an easy task but it's done everyday. Silver solder would've been my second choice for this. -Hillbilly

Yes, DCRP is reverse polarity. Meaning you use a direct current (DC) machine and the rod is the positive end. Completely different than AC current..... The DCRP raises question to me because i have never used a hard facing rod on Reverse Polarity, only Straight Polarity. But if that is what the manufacturer specifies, do it...... 'Hillbilly

It gave an amperage range, what was specified polarity? -Hillbilly

Thank you Albert, you have been the most help with this. Especially explaining the effects the acids have on the physical appearance of the Damascus as elk as the links. -Hillbilly

I am not worried about human safety because the gun will not be fired. I know more about guns than my own boots. Between load and charge weights, type of powder n primers, chamber pressure, size of shot, etc. i am neither worried about my personal safety during three use of the etchant(s) because I'm not an idiot and am fully aware of the potential risks involved with the use if acids..... All i wanted to know is how well these particular acids would work as an etchant on a Damascus shotgun barrel..... I now have my info. Thank you for the concern. -Hillbilly

How well phosphoric acid work?? I'm just trying not to buy an etchant for this project. I already have 2 gaskins of phosphoric on hand. -Hillbilly

Ok, so how long do you usually let it set in the etchant if "slower is smoother"?? I was going to do multiple soaks to get the color results i desire with a 10-15 second maximum soak per dip followed by a distilled water rinse between each acid dip. -Hillbilly

Yes, i know about hydroflouric acid and yes that's what i speak of.... The acidic mixture contains BOTH hydroflouric AND nitric acids. We use it as a pickling solution for our stainless steel and inconel product to give a uniform finish among other reasons....... Thanks for the link. I'll read it when i get home and decide if I'll use this picking solution for it or not. -Hillbilly

I know the conventional equipment to use is ferric chloride for this but had anybody used hydroflouric and/or nitric acids??? I ask because this is easily accessible and readily available to me in quantity.... The movie i speak of is a pickling etchant for stainless and high nickel alloys.. Mind you, I'm working on a Damascus shotgun. -Hillbilly

Agreed

It can be done but if you're much of a beginner, then a 1/4" diameter will be difficult... Settings on your mig machine make the world of difference! I agree with Cavala, countersink the back side (welded side) of the plate. You can even put a minor chamfer on the end if the rod (same side) so it will give you a "V" groove in a circular shape and but the rod flush with the bottom side not recessed. Weld in the little circular groove FAST until it's full then grind. Remember, machine settings are key. -Hillbilly

That was my exact thought on the topic. I did not know about zirconium, tantalum, niobium, or vanadium so i thank you for that information.... So, Sam, would i have been correct to tell him to tig graze the joints with silicon bronze rod?? I believe I'll conduct an experiment on this subject. Weld, test, and record my data. -Hillbilly

This question is actually kind of indirectly directed toward him but i also know that there are MANY talented and intelligent welders out there who could potentially help so i don't want to possibly narrow my chances by only asking one person. -Hillbilly

I don't mean to sound cross on this one but I'm not looking for guesses only FACTS.... Somebody i know wants titanium welded to stainless for exhaust purposes. Can this be done in a shop setting?? I say shop setting because i know just combining the two materials can be done but it's through explosion welding, electron beam welding, and high pressure diffusion processing.... I told them it can't be done directly but could be tig brazed with an uncoated silicon bronze filler wire. But i also got to thinking, is there a transition material the the two materials will readily weld to individually???? Maybe cobalt in between or use cobalt filler AS the transition material?? Nickel based material like inconel, Monel, incalloy, hastalloy??? Any wisdom on the subject is appreciated..... *potentially experimentation with this subject* but it'll be an expensive experiment so little by little. B) With this, keep in mind, I'm trying to figure out a way to inhibit (as much as possible) the diffusion of the iron (Fe) chromium (Cr) and nickel (Ni) into the titanium side (primarily the Fe) and visa versa. To keep intermetallics from forming at any phase.... This is where i believe tig brazing is the only solution but the heat of the application is where my concern derives from the way of the braze. -Hillbilly

An old little guy like that is almost shop display quality.... Not saying it wouldn't be safe to use, i have no idea, but i would clean it up and stash it with the antiques. -Hillbilly