Francis Trez Cole

I will share my story about an other site that has sponcer members I do not go there any more. I was talking with a Kid who drove 4 hours to come to a blacksmithing meeting at my shop. when He told me I said I know some one in the same town. when I contacted them about meeting with this kid. There response was I wish you would not. I like the way you run this site. and if anyone was traveling I am sure any member would be glad to meet them in person. That is a credit to you and the openness of this site. Thanks for all your hard work.

there is an other site that has a VIP section personally I do not go there any more no content and it dose nothing for the advancement of Blacksmithing. There was a person hungry to get started drove 4 hours to get an over view and get started came to my shop. Knowing one of the VIP's lived in the same town. I contacted them to put the two of them together. What a great opportunity. The VIP's said I rather you did not. Well my point is at I forge I think any member would be willing to help and new comer, get them pointed in the right direction. That is a much better way to go.

in the big picture items that are decorative that are cast are brittle. Cast parts do not handle impact. Now if you get into ductile iron Which is cast like anvils and swedge blocks that is a different story. http://www.ductile.org/ With blacksmithing you do not have the porosity that comes with cast iron. In blacksmith you get a much more solid product.

it is not the tool it is the person using it.

here is a picture of a set they are very easy to make

It is a good question. Yes you can make them with the right skill set. With practice blades in the $15 range and competition blades around $100. it is hardly worth the time and money to make your own. As you go through your journey in to blacksmithing. There will be things you will want and you just never get around to make them. Then other things will spark your intrest and you will find yourself going in a more productive direction. A friend makes swords with great bronze fittings. all his equipment is specialized to the process. You can go any direction you mind takes you.

It is mostly back up. in the switching from an individual account to the association's account things got messed up the new web editor is working hard at it. That is what the President told me last week. If there is anything I might have on file let me know what you are looking for most of the information was in the clinker breakers.

a rounding hammer has its advantages as well as disadvantages. The key is hammer technique more so than the hammer. If you have a square hammer and use the edges you will get aggressive movement of the metal. I use a rounding hammer for mass movement but the fine detail I like a small radius edge. An example of this that I saw demonstrated this last year was hammering the center blade of a compass the rounding hammer did not give me the results I needed to complete the project. I went back to my old cross peen with a very little radius was able to get the compass done in just one try.

nice adjusting the basket twist is work a screw driver helps a lot. great spoon

I have seen one driven in to a piece of pipe then the pipe forged down to fit the hardie hole. Sure you would be a little higher but would be easier. I will look for a picture of it

well I am the odd man out I prefer the fiberglass. For me there are many reasons I have posted many points on the subject. But most of all I like a handle that is 16" long and wood handles on the market are only rated for a 4# hammer at the most. I use a 5# hammer. one of the other points here in Florida the weather is not kind to wood. Then you used the word ergonomics wood dose not make a good ergonomic correct hammer handle. As with Blacksmiths of old as new innovations came forward they used them like the power hammer, drill press and welder. Skill and holding a hammer the right way is the best protection for the body.

nicely done.

if you want to do that for a first project it may discourage you. There are some advance skills needed to make it. If you had a truck spring you could pull it off. But before you try. you will have to learn how divide metal and separate it. Then you can do that type of project.

nice tongs keep up the good work

they are a good start the only thing I would add is you need to have a style for the end of the hook the blunt end makes them look unfinished. keep going you are on the right track

this may help you http://www.diehlsteel.com/products/h-13.html?gclid=CIGu4s-ijrYCFQ-znQodMxEAfQ

when doing restoration work it is a must if that is what the original is made of. plugging in mild steel into a wrought iron gate is not a great choice

With new students that I teach the first thing I do is give them an hammer with a fiberglass handle if you make the mistake and grip it will help with arm pain. Slow your pace down and work on drawing out a bunch of stock. If you work with 3/4" stock and draw it down to 3/8" leaving 3" at one end and cutting it off at a length for tongs you will have a few tong blanks. slow down and pay attention for a while it will become second nature.

Johnnie this is the one I made using the method I described. hope it helps it is 1 1/2" x 2 1/2"

what I have found with power tools in the last 3 years. They are all made outside of the USA and do not hold up so better to have the exchange warranty for 20 bucks for 2 years and just bring it back to the store and get a new one for an other 20 bucks I used an old table saw to make my base

the other thing that is important is the image when you make it should be in reverse so when you burn the wood it is the right way, I have used 1/8"x 1/2" strap bent it to the shape and welded it to a plate after shaped. worked very well

excellent work I like the style you used on your feathers very clean

I made one myself. I used 2 1/2" x 1/2 steel for my dies I buy full 20' lengths of mild steel have used it for 3 years with no problem. I have a standard length that I cut them to and stack up in storage until I need them to make a die. as far as the radios it needs to be across the with thickness not the width. I made a scissors type tool with adjustable end to keep the top blade level slow and even is the way to go an other thing you can make is gas burners for gas forge. Heck it down on a 3/4" mandrel cut and weld on a piece of 3/4" black pipe. If you are making them whats a few extras cheaper than the cast fitting.

here is a link that will help you with pricing http://www.wisconsinwoodchuck.net/treasures.htm

yes the FABA site has been down they are working on it. the technique is not that hard its betting the proportions right. that is important.