eseemann

I look forward to seeing it.

Well I have a few new burners I am messing around with. The pictures of the burner in the forge are using .045 mig tip, 3/4 inch pipe and no flare. The one out of the forge is the same mig tipe and a 1 inch pipe with a 1 1/2 inch flare also at 5 and 10 PSI. Thanks to Broomhead for spotting me the mig tips. Well I have a few new burners I am messing around with. The pictures of the burner in the forge are using .045 mig tip, 3/4 inch pipe and no flare. The one out of the forge is the same mig tipe and a 1 inch pipe with a 1 1/2 inch flare also at 5 and 10 PSI. Thanks to Broomhead for spotting me the mig tips.

My Dad was a book publisher and printer. He told me that glue from fish bones and the like were like that. Stronger than need be and last for centuries.

Thomas, any way you look at it there were not Punji Sitcks but anything that has that much of a microbe resort on each arrow is going to end badly for the guy getting shot. I had not thought about that angle. When you think about it the hide glue sounds a good bit like the stuff they would use in middle school science.

Good looking arrowhead. That is a wicked looking hot cut tool.

That is some for real knifeage!

I we could manage a forge that works in a vacuum (induction maybe?) now that would be something. (silly thought)

I see an good justification for an electric smoker. That way you can wrap the heavy extension cord around the anvil and not waste power since after a few hours there will be brisket. I have other lines of thought to rationalize a gas grill and wood smoker. Smoked beef/pork/chicken needs no reason!

Thanks for the info I think I will try it from on piece first.

Rick, I cannot find words to think about how uncomfortable, messy and dangerous working on a self-coating/non-stick anvil would be. I can see that setting your work on a 1/10 of a mm of scale would be like graphite packing lubricant so that when you give the steel a good hit the steel is more likely to skid off in a random direction than not. Not to mention that you can never really clean it off, it sounds like the yellow pine pollen in Florida. Yup, I do see a magnetic anvil, no matter how neat it sounds, is a bad thing.

I have always loved the look of a broad axe head and I wonder if I could use mild steel for the body and forge weld in 1080 or 5160 for the blade? I could also use some of the plough steel for the cutting blade. Thanks

I know this may be an ignorant question but why would a magnetized anvil be a bad thing?

Dink, I am at a loss, it looks like a few things but not like any one I can find, good luck with it.

That is going to be cool if it works! Good luck.

Thanks Dan, first I need to concur the spoon!

Dan, Where did you get your wheels?

Amazon has O-1 starting at $11.00 for a 3/32" by 1/2" by 18" bar.

Good to know, I have stopped guessing about this stuff a while ago so I ask now. I was reading a post about hexavalent chrome problems from overheated stainless steel but since so many people use SS flares on the end of SA burners I am left to conclude this is not a problem. My best guess to why this is not a problem is the time it takes for a flare to burn up is long enough that a well vented shop will not build up enough free floating hexavalent chrome to be an issue.

I am betting on Dinkytoy's anvil weighing 42 KG.

Dinkytoy, Can you read the letters on the anvil? I think it is H I B E U abd the number 42 (inverted). Maybe you can put some paper (thin) over it and use some lump charcoal to trace the letters.

Thanks Dodge, that will make things a good bit simpler for me since there is a heck of a lot more options with galvanized than not around here.

The guy in the video posts earlier in this thread used a 1080/15n20 combo. This is more of a medieval style of blade that were described as looking like small axes. Thanks to DARPA now we can watch a blacksmith put his own razor to his own neck.