eseemann

The best part is the end "Ok, thats good"

I need to find a coin I have kicking around with the words "To It" in it. That way I can get 'round to it.

The locksmith used a set of low (very low) speed cobalt bits and I got to tell you it was a slow process but he was able to drill in to the safe with very little trouble.

SmoothBore, I was able to talk to a 30+ year machine shop veteran from Detroit and he was telling me much the same thing. Do you have a suggestion to how I should sharpen my bits? I could use a Dremel if that would work. I always wonder if one name brand of drill bit is better than another. Ernest

Boot jack does sound like a good idea and unlike the one I had as a kid it will not flip end over end when you try and use it.

<script type="text/javascript"> // ![cdata[> I got to say it do look good.

It would but a unicycle is funnier!

Basher, I hate to out my self as a pack rat but I gots to be me. I have one such gear box but it is about 43:1 so I would not use it. Your comments sound like what I was suspecting. You would be amazed what you can get from Ebay these days. I still need to find me a someone down on thier luck with a unicycle to hock. :)

Nick, That is what I was thinking but since I have never seen one it makes me think there is more to it. I do think that a belt or some other flexible connector would shield it from the worst of the shock but I am an information security professional and I don't really know. Mo, very good question. Let's say you have a 3600 RPM motor and want to step it down 15:1 but have limited space. There are 15:1 gear boxes on Ebay that will handle more than 1HP in a nice and compact package for less than $50.00. You (I that is) could go from a 1.55" pulley to a 24"+ rear bike wheel (I need to find an unguarded unicycle) or use a 2 step process to go from 7.5:1 and then again 7.5:1. The larger pulleys can be at least $30.00 each not counting the smaller pulleys, belts and space involved. A 15:1 gearbox is about 6" to 10" square and the gearbox does not need a cage around pulleys and belts.

Good Morning folks, I have been doing some looking around and do not recall seeing a mechanical power hammer that used a speed reducing gearbox. Since speed reducing gearboxes are used in other types of applications such as electric vehicles but not power hammers it makes me think there may be a reason for this. My best guess would be that the gears would not hold up, long term that is, against the residual shock of the hammer. As always if I do not know what I am talking about please feel free to correct me, my wife should not have all the fun. Thanks all Ernest

Sgt. Yates, Sorry for leaving that out, one of the thing I have on my list is a small "Rusty" type power hammer. I am also going to want to attach mild steel handles to two part dies that will be high(er) carbon steel.

<script type="text/javascript"> // Mr. Coe, I will take a look at your tutorial today, thank you Sir.

Stormcrow, Thanks for the verification, to quote Marv from "Sin City" "I got a condition" when it comes to math. Most people do not know but in reality dyslexia is broken down in to 3 sub-groups covering reading/ visual input (dyslexia), writing/spelling/other types of hand/manual output (dysgraphia) and math/computational input/output (dyscalculia). I have enough dysgraphia and dyscalculia that I stink at drawing, free handing with a jig saw and doing the math (most). Just because it was looking me in the face with a large sign saying "look at me, I am the right answer!!!!" does not mean I can trust it. Darn sneaky numbers! (LOL) So I have this 3600 RPM 110 single phase that used to be part of a a belt drive table saw and even if I do not use if for a power hammer it should make a dandy (small) belt grinder. The motor has a 5/8" output on one side and a small (1/4") PTO coming off the other side. Two very nice things about this motor is it comes installed in a plastic housing (I can keep my ability to count to 10 with out taking off a shoe) and has a thermal reset switch so I am less likely to let the magic smoke out. So I am going to try to run two belts with an (approximately) 7:1 then go for the spare tire (or something for the last 8/9:1. That should bring it to under (about) 240 beats per min. The ram is a 24# pto/drive shaft and (about) 90# worth of RR track and steel plate. I may sound like a heavy machine gun put I think it will work. I will worry about removable dies for the next build. What do you folks think?

Afttist, "bronze-steel-cast iron fusion joint": sounds like a picture I would like to see. Sgt. Yates, The brazing rod I have right now will melt under an air propane torch so that seems to be closer to the 425 C then the melting point of steel, What should I ask for at the local welding shop if I want something that would be on the same lines (strength wise) as a mild steel O/A weld? thanks Ernest.

<script type="text/javascript"> // Please tell me if I understand the math correctly, the with the drive to spare tire ratio of 2.25:20 you end up with a speed reduction of 1:8.888, or there abouts. Is that correct? thanks

Dwarf, Sadly, a mix of low quality bits and impatience on my part is what does in most of my drill bits. I am a hobbyist so I have not yet gotten a set of good bits yet. Tell you the truth about what I planned on doing with this thing would be to use it for what ever it is best suited to. I think it could make a dandy bending die since if I can cut it with the band saw, and it is not cast iron. If it is mild steel I might grind it down to base metal and use it for axes with the addition of high carbon. I am easy going in this respect.

BigGunDoctor, It is about 3/8th to 1/2" thick, I think what ever it is was cast or drop forged since it does not seem to have any seems. Dwarf, I have not gotten around to cutting and or grinding yet. Since this thing, what ever it may be, looked like the type of thing that the IFI folks might recognize I wanted to ask before burning up a few drill bits. thanks all.

Good Morning folks, Anyone have any idea what this thing might have been in a past life? I picked it up some time ago during a trip to the scrap yard. I am trying to figure out what it might be made of. If nothing else i am going to cut some off and try and forge it. If it crumbles I will guess cast iron. If it does not I will think see about other tests. I have not yet spark tested it but I can and post a photo if any of you good folks are good at reading the sparks, so to speak. thanks Ernest

FlyingXS, I took another look at your two chunks of steel and all I got to say is Holy Cow! Good looking work so far, I love seeing people do with what they have at hand. Ernest

HW, Good to know, I have seen how flux eats, well, everything. I did not know if you needed to seal it like the wool. Would the rammable ceramic but the wool or something else?

DSW, I will see what I can do about finding a circuit that is as close to dedicated as I can. I do have a 5kw generator, can I run the welder off a generator since I know that it does have a 20 amp outlet.

This may be an ignorant question but do you need to coat ceramic board that is not on the floor of a forge? What i am wondering is if the board has the same issue with breaking down and giver off fibers like the wood has. I like the idea of a kiln shelving has a floor over the insulation, that sounds like a good way to go. thanks Ernest.

I feel I should give a plug to the place I got my motor. If any of you good folks need an AC motor for a power hammer or grinder and are near Huntsville you need to check out Midway Furniture & Appliance at , Madison, AL. Every time I go in there he has what I need. He has all sorts of appliance motors as well as bins full of sockets to replace ones that have been lost. He has everything from coins, Baseball cards, some power tools to tow bars for the car.

DSW, I shall do just that. I saw one helve hammer video on YouTube ( ) where the guy makes the comment "P.S.S. Small pink bicycle wheels are a perfectly legitimate clutch." Now this is chain driven but it is worth it for the comment. LOL. Ernest

I just got a 1 hp 3600 RPM ac motor that used to be part of a belt driven table saw. From these posts (if I understand correctly) something like a router speed control would not be my first choice to bring the RPMs down to th 1700 range. Is that correct? thanks Ernest