eseemann

Nobody, The next time you are in Madison County take a min to stop at the "Ghost Town" flea market on hiway 72 west of indoor fleamarket heading toward Athens. They have been a good place to find old worne out files that are American made and other neat stuff. I am going to be looking at the fleamarket in Ardmore for the nippers as well. I do not know the one near the landfill but I will take a look. E

I maybe I asked the wrong question. The main thing I would like to know is a recommendation of someone that can plasma/laser/water cut steel close to Huntsville (thanks Spanky). I am going to get better at tongs and spoons (I shall master the spoon one day!!!!) but for now I wanted a good set of tongs with out having to pay $35.00, I figured if I could get a batch of them cut out they would be good iron in the hat fodder that is all. I am not saying I will stop trying. Let me ask a different question. Take a look at the attached photo and tell me if this looks like something I should see about having laser/plasma/water cut and if there is no recommendations in Madison County Al I may call Morgan Metals and see what they would want to do it.

I can rent a cutter from a place in Decatur for $50,00 a day so I might just suggest we have us a big ole cutting party one day.

Thanks Spanky, One thing I would like to do is use some of the stock you gave me and if I can get them done in a good size batch give the Athens group a few sets for Iron in the hat. I will give them a call. BTW I am passing on some steel to a new smith including one from you.

I think I need to post some photos of the horrid and misshapen evidence of my past efforts, if it not that I have not seen the post of videos about making tongs, the problem is I stink at it. I know this should be one of the more basic skills a hobby smith like myself should know but I have tried in the past and it has not ended well. I have made one "set" in that the sort of fit together but not really. I get the feeling that wanting to cut blanks is like asking about straight razors with replaceable blades over at badger and blade. I have always had a problem free handing anything. This includes wood carving, carpentry, drawing and 3D smithing. Please understand that I am not saying it is too hard and I am not saying I can not learn to do this but right now I am not there. Thanks all.

Steve, that is what I was thinking as well. Arkie, I was wrong, it is 1/4" and what I have on hand but I do see your point.

I do have a sawzall and an angle grinder but I was hoping to have them cut a bit neater and easier. I have done a good bit of cutting with power and hand saws so I do understand what you are getting at.

Good Eve all, Like Harry Callahan once said "A man's GOT to know his limitations." and I think one of my limitations is I need more instruction (hands on) to make things such as tongs. I know it is (should be) not that hard but until I can get some hands on instructions at a workshop I think I need a plan "B". I would like to find some place in or around Huntsville to have some 3/16ish flat stock cut in to tong blanks. Any one have any recommendations? Thanks all.

You chair looks more comfortable then that one described in the books. Looks really good so far.

I saw this page a while back talking about bog iron http://www.hurstwic.org/history/articles/manufacturing/text/bog_iron.htm. It has a photo of the smith's anvil stone, it is a big one but I wonder how big it used to be.

I was at the Athens forge meeting last week (26 July) and the smith doing the demo was using a dry film molybdenum disulfide and graphite based lube and he said it did help a good bit in keeping the punch from getting stuck in the work.

A large number of guns collected in an L.A. gun buyback were melted down and turned in to rebar. I think they used some of that for the big sports venue (Staples Center maybe?). http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-me-ln-guns-melted-20130730-story.html Everyone always says rebar is the mystery meat or steel and all it has to do is be at least XXXX but you never know what else may be in there.

Chis, I like the way your trowels turned out, they look great.

I got to tell you a second time that it is one good looking work, Thanks for the info.

Russell, that is one nice bit of work. How long did it take from start to end? This may be a silly question but do people do the 1018/tool steel combos because the mild steel is easier to work or because it is cheaper?

Thanks, I will take a look at it tonight

Stormcow, Do you have a pic of your Rusty+tire clutch posted already? Notownkid, I think I am going to get a good bit of use out of him and I think he will enjoy it,

Billy, Thanks for the insight, I had not thought of ti as the effort required to move the leg and stay on the other foot. I took a look at "RUSTY" the Appalachian Power Hammer and that may be small enough to fit on my porch (no workshop yet) and do the job. According to the people that sell the "Rusty" plans you can get away with a smaller motor (1HP or less) than a lager hammer since you are moving a lighter hammer. I am going to keep the nephew, Frosty has a good point about the other uses for him. thanks

The main reason for the subject line is I have asked the members at the local Athens Forge meeting and the local smith does some very nice fine work on his treadle hammer. He has two power hammers to do the type of work one does with a power hammer. I have a 12 year old that I can draw on from time to time but he will never be very tall but he has his Granddaddy's build and will have a low center of gravity and be built like a fireplug, that will help in lifting an anvil. I have access to steel that I think should work for the hammer in the post but I do not have a good motor for a tire hammer. When I think of the cost of building a tire hammer (or belt grinder) the motor seems to be one of the highest cost single items. Is a bench top tire hammer practical? If it can hit about as hard as I can without getting tired I can live with it needing to make more strikes. Thanks for the input all.

Good Morning Folks, I would like to say to start with that I have been told that a foot powered hammer is not as good as a power hammer and that I can agree with. Right the only striker I have at hand is my 12 year old Nephew. With that in mind if I do not have the money or the space for a "real" power hammer would either of these hammers be an improvement over my right arm? I am 6' 8" tall and 310 lbs and I think there is some mechanical advantage to be had that I am missing out on right now.

Jacob If you weld/bronze braze that gap where the eye is bent over I think that joint might only last one or two life times worth of use. That must have taken some doing to get that chunk of steel in to that shape.

All, I have seen some wonderful works of art from people that were working with what us "New World" type would call trash. I guess I am being somewhat ethnocentric here. It is better than nothing and that is a fact.

I agree 100%! If you are going to make a product that has all the OHSA requirements for the industrial revolution it should look like it!

Well folks this is a new take on welding PPE. If I were going to take a photo of the item for sale I would make sure it had all the rivets installed so that if there are 3 on one side there are also 3 on the other side. Description: Outer covering is durable and impact-proof, convenient to observe wear well, and protect the head against hurt by spark. Hand hold design is easy to used. The Center Glasses Should Installed by Youself

Tribbles93, Where are you located?