petere76

Dillon, Yes. You can lead with either the 2 in or the 8 in contact wheels. You can establish the platten at whatever angle you want in regard the rest. Also you can rotate the arm so that the slack portion of the belt is any number of other orientations on the radius of its swing. It's a single pivot point offest toward the 8 in wheel end. Peter

Thanks Curley and company for the ideas. Peter

Sam, They look great. Getting paid is a good thing bro. Peter

After many years of wrestling with the bench mounted floor sander and watching things fly across the shop, I decided to build a belt grinder. Dereck Glazier at the New England School of Metalwork organized a group build and we produced a re-engineered version of the no-weld grinder. This model is welded and utilizes most of the design elements popular in the various models you can buy plans for. Dereck did a fantastic and through job on this project and everone involved had a great time. Several of the fellow smiths in attendance had built tire hammers last year with Clay. Everyone knew what to do and got down to it without much delay. We had everything welded, assembled, wired, fitted and tested in about 9 hours. 8 In and 2 in contact wheels, mfg. Beaumont metals. I driver pulley and one idler pulley that is adjustable for tracking. 1.5 HP HD Motor. 4 speed matched step pulleys. Heavy duty pillow blocks with grease fittings are fixed to .25 in angle base. 3 axis adjustable platen. Tubular constrcution allows infinite adjustment within range. All tube penetrations are reinforced to avoid any deformity when tightened. They will not crush. One 3/4 in wrench is the only required tooling. I try to keep the shop modular so we can use as much of the floor space (36 x 24poured slab) as possible. To this end I mount most of my tooling so it is movable. The Grinder is mounted on .75 in HD board, sandwiched with a .75 in piece of stall matting to act as a vibration damper. The assemply is through bolted to a .5 in piece of scrap plate we had out back. The legs are 2 x 2 angle and the frame is stiffened with a shelf. 4 casters, 2 fixed and 2 swivel complete the assembly. Because it can move the height of the unit is just under the benches in the shop, this way where ever you work you can clamp the unit in place for added stability. I will add a piece of expanded metal for the shelf when I generate some scrap. The iron work was all cleaned, primed and painted out in gloss haze gray. I ordered up some belts from POPS Knife supply. Very reasonable pricing. I tested the unit this afternoon with a 50 grit hogging belt. It worked like a charm and I was suitably impressed. My estimated cost total is about $1200 USD. I did not include the gas, lodging costs for the group build event or my own shop time. I used scrap steel we had on hand for the frame. Upon review, a very reasonable cost for a versitile grinder. If you are in the market for a grinder consider this option. Photos attached. Tel me what you think? Any ideas on improvements or tooling I may have overlooked? Peter

Curley, In re. your combo die set up on the tire hammer. Did you make two new dies upperlower or buy them? I was thinking of doing that for my own tire hammer. Care to share the details? I made and use a small fuller type die on the flat that moves iron well enough but it is not very agressive (low rise). The combo dies I have seemn on the self contained hammers (Glazier, Striker etc) work very efficently but those hammers are a lot tighter than the typical TH set up. Thanks, Peter

Sam...you the man bro. Thanks for doing for others, thats truly what makes our crazy world go around. You set a great example. Peter

Gents, Austria produces some exceptional metal work, both modern and traditional. Liebeeher Crane corp comes to mind. They produce unbelievalbe machinery out of a small factory near Bludens. Spent some time there surveying machinery for delivery and it was impressive. The folks working the facility were multi generatioanal employees from the same famlies. The only time they took off was for mandatory military service between 17-19 years of age. Other than that, most were employed in one place (company) for their entire career. From an Amercian perspective it was an eye opener in regard the employer vs employee relationship we are used to seeing. The local environment supplied world class skiing, good fly fishing, great food and very friendly and brotherly people. Peter

Luke, Just a suggestion. Dont spend the money on the high end belts if you are just starting out. You will go through a few in the learning process. 3m brand, alu oxide at $4.50 or less is a good place to start. Get a good hogging belt like a 50 grit for the rough stuff. a few 120 grit for the mid range and a 220 for a finish. These will get you started. If you want the ultimate mirror finish you need to go higher and thats one place that the pros spend the money on the high end belts. Good luck. Peter

Nice work Dave. Can never have enough tongs. Where did you get the combo dies for the Tire Hammer? Peter

Congratulations. Waylon is off to a great start.

Google-POPS Knife supply. Big selection of all your needs for knife production and the prices are very reasonable. If you call when they are open (1600 -2000 M-F EST) the gentleman is very knowledgable and will help you any way he can. Good luck with your project. Peter

Black, I am always looking at scrap piles. Scrounging is afterall both an art form and sport. My supply bin is full of an assortment of old vehicle components. Always ask before taking anything and be considerate and dont leave a mess. Does not hurt to come around with a smal forged gift or a cold beer as a thank you either. In the end these folks become your friends and if you keep them smiling everone is happy. I got a bunch of tool steel from a logging outfit when they changed out blades on their chipper grinders. Hit up the auto/truck/skidder repair places. Look for axles, leaf springs, torsion bars and ball joint pivot arms. All good quality steels that you can make into tooling. The leaf springs make decent edge tools. The coil springs make good struck tooling (punches and chisels). Be careful with shock units that have intergal springs. You want the shafting but in cutting the casing apart you are releasing the spring tension. Be guided accordingly because these things come apart with force. I also scrounge, with permission, at a local metal fab facility that is rather big. Mostly mild structural pieces but they are big drops. They have dumpsters that are the size of 40 Ft containers. I get in there and prowl around. Be careful when you are on someone elses job site. Wear proper PPE (gloves, goggles,ST boots, etc) and don't take any chances. You aren't covered for any accidents and they dont need the hassel of a non-employee injury. Good luck hunting. Peter

Bob, Great idea. Let me know if you do a production run. Peter Carrabassett Valley Forge

Frosty, Right on the Japanese saws, very thin and they cut on the draw. I am suitably impressed ever time I see a Japanes timber frame building. The joinery is world class. The tooling the masters use last a life time. The chisel sets are amazing. I'm not 60 but I don't feel like I'm 40 anymore and somewaht moreso after a full day of heavy forging. I have not battled with any trees in the yard lately but I certainly keep you in mind when using the chain saw. Glad all is going well. Peter

Golfpro, If security is an issue, consider a signed non disclosure agreement before laying your cards out. These are fairly common in RD engineering circles outside of China. In China everything is fair game, they essentially have no IP law. Show something in China and they are making down the street, under a different chop the next day. Be guided accordingly. Planning and careful analysis should protect your idea and further its development process. Good luck with your idea Peter

We have had several blades fracture where a large segment will seperate. It appeard to be the result of how they were made and not impact or a shifting workpiece. Both of these consditons will take a disc out very quickly. Rigidity and alignment are critical on the chop saws. The free hand cuts are where the guys get into trouble. Take the time to securely clamp the work. We noted the manufacturer of that particular blade and never purchased them again. Price point is always a consideration on consumables but we now stick with the high end discs. You will catch some debris if one of these things flys apart and you are in front of it. Peter

Vaughn, Seems you ran into a 2 percenter...don't waste your time, they aren't worth it and likely never will be. Note the address tell your friends to steer clear.

Equipment is money, buildings are money and your time is money. Between purchasing and or making tooling you have a considerable investment in the set up. Add up the costs of a building and the monthly cost of power, gassses, coal, consumables and upkeep. Now sum the machinery, tooling and shop cost. This roough gross figure will help you determine the estimated houtly cost of operating your shop. Talk R&D for a project for a moment. Drawings have to be made. Special tooling that the project may require has to be fabricated and tested. Meetings with the client, where they may decided to alter or change the original concept. The development costs come out of your commission if you don't charge for that portion of the project you will not recover the costs. Add up all the costs, hidden and actual for any particualr undertaking and use that number when preparing the bid. As an example, even a small 1 man shop has an overhead cost of between 50 and 60 dollars an hour to opperate when you factor in your total costs. Like any production facility, the product run has to reflect the costs involved. Peter

Gents, Thank you for your kind thoughts. John & Frosty, "hanging bracket is not of the strongest configuration". I am with you on the support concept but the visual angle of exposure wanted the brace above the yard in this case. The funny part was, I had some "supervisory input" from the boss and at one point when I was slowly working away on the leaf details I was accused of not making rate. The peer product review is a great idea because it gives us a chance to get input on how the pieces are seen through the eyes of other folks that actually do make things. I have had experiences with individuals at shows that have suggested "better ideas" and they are not always going down the right road. Peter

Nice job Dave. Chisel/slitter taper or endless leaf machine? I recall seeing one of Clays tools (mild) that featured the flat, the taper and the leaf form but I dont think it would hold up under a steay diet of tool steel. How is the hammer working for ya? The tooling height requirement almost dictates that you make tooling for the aea occupied by the lower die. Peter

Had a request for an inside plant hanger, with some leaves. .5 in sq stock, on a 1.25 in backing plate. fullerd .75 in for the leaf area, riveted construction, inside oil finish. Would sell for @ $80-%110 USD, but in this case, it's a present for my wife Karen Grace's BD. Also ran off a 8 inch door knocker for a house warming. .75 skidder chain for the bail, mounted on a 3 in back plate. Hot oil OMO finish. Usually I sell the large door knockers for $120-$150 USD. Let me know what you guys think. Peter

Price point is a factor in the Wal-mart arena. As an example, i saw a china made, wall mount plant hanger. Just a simple 20 inches of 3/8square stock with a radius that stood off the wall maybe 12 inches. Short taper for the hook end and an offset flat with two rough screw holes. Not a lot of hand work but obviously it took some time. price $4.50 . Now, take a 10 foot section of 3/8 and you get 6 pieces. Process the 6 pieces, finish the 6 pieces and paint the 6 pieces. Most shops have a rate of around $50-$60 bucks an hour to run. Assuming it took an hour to do the 6 pieces, you would have to charge 10 bucks a copy just to cover cost.

Good idea on the hanging glass enclosed candle. I hope they sell. Where did you get the candles in the glass and what are they called? Seen a smaller version in Churches but nothing that large. I'm looking to do a set of table lites with forged surrounds for a resturant. The wax becomes an issue when it runs and the glass containment solves that problem. Peter

larry and BFM, Thanks for the reply. I make and treat most of the struck tools I use in the shop. Draw the temper on the business end and let the struck end aneal. However, the springs have always been a bit challenging for me. I got a pile of leaf spring stock, so i'll keep trying. Peter

Question, how do they manufacture leaf springs that are stacked with the rolled bolt connection. I have hardened sections of spring for power hammer tooling (flatters). A lot of the tooling breaks clean and shows fine grain on the cross section (very hard) . Not all the spring pieces fail this way but they are all treated the same way (non-mag, then a water quench). Is there a better way? Thanks, Peter