petere76

Hey Dave, Do you have access to a lathe? You can make a full set of round tenion sets easily or square . If you undersize the hole you drill you can heat the stock and drift the hole to square or rectangle without much difficulty. If you want square tooling, set up square stock in a 4 jaw chuck and do the same thing. Note that sometimes you vise the tool and hammer the stock. This set up favors square tools although you can make round holder for the vise and it will work just as well. Drill the relief hole oversize and far enough off the face for a good long tenion. It can go all the way through of just to the centerline of the hole depth it does not matter. I have a set of rounds I made out of mild steel. When the face gets deformed I just chuck it back up in the lathe and reface it; fast, easy and accurate. Peter

Tim, It tis sad, but we end up knowing the man by the work. It's and ingenious and well made die set. Thanks for posting the pics. Peter

Storm, Thanks for your information on the blade profile. I read where the saber style profile is very strong, thats why I asked. I also noted when studying an old Japanese sword and a German Bayonet, they essentially both used a version of the same blade configuration; Different applications but both very strong designs because of the extra mass on the upper edge (spine) of the blade. I am working on the handle end today. I like Bob's idea about the holes for lashing on an auxiliary shaft, makes good sense to have that option on a multi function tool. Peter

Storm, I am new to knife making and I am undertaking a similar project right now, although somewhat longer in dimension. I can't see from the pics the start of the primary bevel. Does your blade have a "saber style" grind flat at the top or is the bevel continious from the top of the blade to the edge? Did you freehand forge the bevel or use a PH die set? I have made a few die sets for the PH that give me the 40deg edge bevel. Not sure exactly how to handle the primary bevel other than to do it by hand. Any input would be appreciated. I like the chute cord wrap job on the handle and the turks head is a nice touch. I am sure the fellow going into the Survival Escape Evasion Reistance course will be pleased with your product. One of these facilities (USN) is located very close to where I live. Peter

Sad news today. Peace be with you Grant. Peter

Outside vs inside. Maine has the extreme seasonal temperature differences and its tough on outside finishes. Outside we always paint the iron. Wire brush and clean the iron. Multiple coats of primer. Use different colors so you can see where you missed. Make sure the iron is at room temp. Use a good quality enamel spray paint. Apply in light multiple coats in a relatively dust free space. In the case of the yard art, such as wind chimes, we go with the "all natural" rust finish. No maintenance required. If you need instant rust, wire brush the finished iron and use a spray on peroxide mixture. The oxidizer speeds up the process. Inside. A lot depends on what the client's needs are in regard the deco scheme. Oil finishes are by far the best for showing off the facets of the forged iron but they have maintenance requirements. The beeswax linsed oil turpenting mix works well. This finish is not abrasion resistant and will wear off if handled frequently. For hardware we sometimes, acid etch the finished pieces to remove any scale, neutralize by washing (soap and water) and heat to draw temp colors and then seal coat. You can also hot oil treat at the same time you draw the colors. This process produces a random pattern look so for artistic consistency make sure the same guy does the work if it's a multi piece project. Good luck and happy New Year, Peter

As the sun sets on mountains of Maine and the snow swirls about in the yard, I wish all you good folks all the best and a very Merry Christmas. Peter The Carrabassett Valley Forge

Brian, Thanks for being so thoughtful and taking the time out to do all you do for others. Merry Christmas, Peter

Krayth, Some quick observations and a few suggestions before you start cutting into your garage floor. The flywheel design hammers have a movement vector when they operate, they rock back and forth. The CS hammers need to be secured to either the deck, blocking or a steel plate. Make sure that you have it well secured because they do move. The secondary issue involves mass. Anything you can do to increase the structural mass will be in your best interest. I have a CS built hammer (# 343) and installed it in an existing building on a slab. I mounted the hammer on a # 700 piece of plate and placed a stall matt under the plate to protect the floor. The stall matts (1 in thick HD rubber) are available at tractor supply for about $50.00. The steel plate (1 in) improves the mass factor and stablizes the hammer. The matt dampens the impact on the concrete floor and reduces the noise factor. I use the hammer on relatively heavy stock and have not had an issues with unintended movement, nor has the floor cracked. I am generally pleased with hammers design and the overall cost was reasonable. Good luck with your project and Merry Christmas, Peter

Not sure if it's the threads or the slide clearences that are at issue here. If you can get some heat on the body (rosebud) or the thread box, apply bees wax and let it melt into the clearences. It is well know to free up close tolerence seized studs. Another option is if you have access to an ultrasonic tank for cleaning parts. Good luck and Merry Christmas, Peter

Hey Mike, More space is a good thing and you have some assetts already in place. Heating the space is a big issue for winter operations. Speaking from my own perspective, the -10F shop on a January morning is a daunting proposition in regard motivation, material preparation and machinery readiness. . Anything you can do to improve the heating capacity will help. I work out of an insulated 36x24 shop space but it is not independently heated. Its well sealed and out of the wind and that helps tremendously. A smith I know not far from here operates out of realtively open shedgarage and its some cold with the wind blowing in the winter. The forge will get the space workable after a time but it's certainly challenging at the start of the day. I may break down and go with a wall mount gas heater or any overhead garage heater but I always find something else to spend the funding on. Good luck with your new space. Merry Christmas, Peter

May Peace be with you. Peter

Glenn, Very nice work and a fine looking residence. You are living the dream with travel and good clients. Merry Christmas, Peter

It's the journey my friend ... that leads you to whatever it is you will find. If you need critique, let the market be your master. Find solice, harmony and fulfilment in what you do and how you do it. Look inward, reflect and be at peace, for it is that season. All the best, Peter

Its a wonder we survived this long. Learned to ride a bike without a helmet. Kids traveled in cars without car seats or seat belts. 22 rifles and BB guns we normal for 12 year olds. You got a draft card and you could drink at 18. Most doctors smoked and some even endorsed their favorite brands. Girlfriends dad was likley the most dangerous thing you encountered unless you got drafted. And believe it or not a lot of ironwork including utensils was hot dipped in used motor oil.

I acid clean (etch) the pieces before treatment. Soak in vinegar overnight and the scale disolves. Scrub with a soft bristle brush (old tooth brush). Neutralize by washing off in soapy water and dry. Heat up the piece and treat with veg oil, peanut oil seems to work well. If you store these pieces outside they will rust. Tell the clients to treat them like a cast iron pan, oil and bake off in the oven on low. Merry Christmas, Peter

Ho rah...Job well done. Great hammer build and all the best from #343. Peter

Joe, Thanks for sharing. Great idea....very inventive. Peter

Pat, Flatten out the end of a short piece of copper tubing. Use the flattened end to force out the material build up between the file ridges. Works great, easy to make and easy to use. Peter

Made this special order 42 in fire place poker for a vintage home that has a rather large and deep hearth. 42 in loa .5 in square stock with a tapered shaft 6 in basket handle classic end oil finished Merry Christmass to all you elves out there working the magic in your shops. Peter

jake, I share your fondness for the look and feel of the forged Iron. I find myself wandering big cities at times taking pictures of classic and contemporary iron work. New York City park gates and SanFrancisco doorways are both equally intriguing to me. The old mint in SF has some very impressive work. I once spoke with the son in law of the last Blacksmith that had a shop in SF. He married the daughter of German and the smith taugh the son-inlaw the basics. Likley to ensure his daughter was taken care of. Fast Fwd to 2010, the shop is still there, something of a historical building. I think the yard has been sold off to a taxi outfit and the remainder of the property is a power substation. But the shop survives in all its glory, a testimony to the men of the day. They may still turn out manhole cover hooks for city on occasion. I have noticed a distincitve difference between the German and the English styles. The German appears more forged with the distinctive hammer markings yet the English appears almost seamless as if the iron grew to form rather than being forged. If you look at the grill work in both areas the styling is apparent. Both styles are exceptional and complement the masters that made them but I am still in awe of the English. I try to copy the copy the style but my efforts prodcue more of a German varient than English.

Hey Dave, I did a tool holder last year and used traditional joinery. I did plug weld the base plate (heavy) but its hidden and did not take away from the balance or the look of the piece. I think the height becomes an issue with long tools (40 + in) because if you widen the base to keep the unit steady the piece will sometimes seem off balance. Always something to consider for future projects because the traditional look of riveted and tenon joinery is always well recieved. Great job on your piece, it looks fine. Peter

NG, An interesting more contemporay adaptation on this same theme was produced by Ralph Sproul in New Hampsire, .http://www.bearhillblacksmith.com/ Ralph was an officer and strong supporter of the NEBA for many years and I believe he still operates a shop and metal fabrication business in NH. I am sure he would entertain any questions you might have concerning design issues. He designed and built a single pedistal air hammer and hydraulic press. He traveled and demonstrate at various NEBA functions. The unit seemed both compact, functional and somewhat portable. Although, Ralph does have a converted pulp truck with a boom that makes for easy rigging. The hammer/press combination is certainly versitle. Peter

I belive it for adjusting to the stock length of the upsetted end, i.e. longer bolt vs shorter bolt. Nice score on the vices, very clean and servicable. Railroad service or Mill service...Guilford used to have both. Peter

Harold, You arent alone bud, grief seems to have been issued very liberaly this last year and it does take the wind out of your sails. I lost a good Marine in Afghanistan, my dog and my Dad, in that order. Seemed like an endless beating for the heart and spirit. It has not been pretty. Not to worry though, we resurge and gain back the strength that is lost to grief and all the trials that go with it. You'll get it back dont worry. Try a road trip to a place where you dont know anyone and do something that doesn't matter. Frees the spirt and gets rid of the demons. Peter