Dale M.

Interesting build.... Looks like you had a great helper on build.... Dale

Usually for me is to clean up any clinker out of bottom of fire pot and make sure air holes are clear, and that shape of finds and coke are in a inverse cone shape leading down to grate of inlet, its the prelighting procedures that make actual lighting a success....

Umm... I use balled up a sheet of newspaper, some wood kindling, a splash of charcoal lighter fluid, once started add coal/coke and then add air.... Air seems to be really important...Really... Dale

Easy guys, he only asked question this afternoon.... Dale

In past I used charcoal (bricketts) to bring up heat on some large steel for bending when I did not have forge or torches.... So maybe, depending on what you are trying to do....

Something else to consider is the air... Old forges with bellows or hand crank blower, the air was reduced when smith stepped away from forge to hammer...Modern technique to use electric blower allows for full time air flow and probable less attention to air flow vs fire then when smith stood there and gauged his heat by amount of air he manually induced into fire to adjust his heat, there for managing fire size and coal/coke usage... Maybe if blower has a drop gate that cut off air when smith stepped way from forge or a foot switch to cut off blower, one would be more attentive to what the "air" was doing and how it helped control fire size.. In out zeal to modernize we my have overlooked a subtle aspect of fire control... Dale

If you use a sprinkling can and add a bit of water (fine spray/drizzle) to parameter of flame it will control size by not allowing it to expand outward (keeps fire ball forced inward)..... The "generic" adding water or wet coal/coke is kind of a real broad loose term/statement.... I do not think adding water to control flame is bad or will actually damage fire pot if done correctly, but its more how you use it (technique) and what you are trying to accomplish.... And just dumping water on flame in broadest sense is not a good practice... http://www.iforgeiron.com/page/index.html/_/blueprints/100-series/bp0157-watering-can-r389 Also if fire is becoming to big, reduce your air.... Dale

Turn hand truck around.... Wheels do nothing for you facing this way.... Dale

Come inland.... We have a group up here in MARIPOSA and anvils come up quite often... Wife got me a excellent Vulcan 100lb for $200... Dale

The only draw back to Kirtby vacuum as a blower is the design of actual system.... VACUUMS tend to be noisier sucking air and pushing it out discharge than a blower designed to actually PUSH air .... Has something to do with impellers or blade styles/design.... Will it work, you bet, will you be happy with the noise, only you will know.... The HF router speed control has been used for many applications other than just routers, it will be more robust than using lamp dimmer... Its all about electrical rating of motor you are running and "whatever " the ratings are on any particular controller you are using.... High amperage (wattage) motors and low rating on controller usually end up in controller going "poof".... Actually something as small as a hair dryer with heating element disconnected will probable supply enough air and with motor/blower only, it will be well below amperage rating of "dimmer" switch... Think if you scale blower size down a bit you will be happier... Dale

My observation is with my home made forge (brake drum style), is the fire ball is above the air inlet and the unburned coal and finds seem to form a beveled or cone shape from center to outer lip.... IF this holds true with square fire pots, it would seem to me the round or square fire pot argument/discussion in moot and its where the fireball places itself and not shape of fire pot or fuel used, except in case of long narrow firepot used for sword making, after all is it not ultimately the burn of coal to get it to reach coke stage where it seems the ultimate heat is... Whether fire pot is square or round does not seem to matter as long as fireball (shape) is appropriate for item(s) you are heating.... Dale

I never quit equated one forge shape to fuel type.... I equated it to type of work the was accomplished at forge.... Square fire pot for big heavy massive objects the required lots of repetitive heating and round, lighter one for specifically like rivet work where it was more portable as work on bridge or skyscraper moved....... Dale

A 20 foot length of 3/8 round stock (0.376 lbs per ft)... 7.5 pounds, at $0.90 per pound $6.76 a length.. A 20 foot length of 3/8 square stock (0.478 lbs per ft) ... 9.56 pounds, at $0.90 per pound is $8.60 a length A 20 foot length of 3/8 hexagon stock (0.414 lbs per ft)... 8.28 pounds, at $0.90 per pound $7.53 a length.. A 20 foot length of 3/8 octagon stock (0.396 lbs per ft).... 7.92 pounds, at $0.90 per pound $7.13 a length.. The above exercise was just for giggles.... Dale

Also there are dimensional charts available the give weight per foot of steel stock. So it should be no surprise what you will pay once you know dimension, per foot, per pound(s) you can calculate exact cost before you ever leave home... Some suppliers have two different pricing system one is per foot price and one is per stick pricing... ... The per foot pricing usually includes a cutting charge.... Per stick (20 foot) is usually cheaper... My supplier will give you a free cut to make full length more manageable if you buy it for the "by the stick" price... A very information packed book called POCKET REF by Thomas J. Glover has excellent charts on "common" steel dimensions as to weigh per foot... And tons of other information you need to know... Also weigh per foot charts can be found on internet... Dale

I get "unwarranted steel" manufactured in INDIA for about .49 cents a pound.... New, clean steel runs me about .85 to .90 cents a pound out here on left coast... I can get it cheaper, but I have to drive further and it just eats up any savings.... Dale

Actually this whole thread seems sort moot because of the responses of this message thread... http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/33239-entry-level-blacksmith-accreditation/ Do what you do, peer review is only for your person satisfaction and means nothing in real world... Dale

When I searched Google I got this as a "french clip".... Believe it for women to wear in their hair... Dale

Think your tool rack may give you some headaches as hammers turn and drop through slot.... Maybe some dividers to form a small opening so just handles can drop through.... Otherwise look very good... Dale

Old timer at last saturdays hammer in mentioned using borax, but adding a little salt to mix to improve it.... Dunno... Have not tried it yet.... Don't know what salt to borax ratio should be... Dale

Do not think you are going to find the high temperature materials, like the high temp fire bricks, or wool blanket or any other other high temperature supplies at Home Depot. Think you need to search out local specialty dealer for supplies for industrial furnaces and boilers.... Check local phone book.... OR internet search for product you need by product description or brand names.... I know you are going to hate this, and I hate saying this, and when somebody tells me this I sort of implode, but GOOGLE can be your friend... Dale

L or K refers to rigid copper pipe for water or waste drain lines (I believe) .... You want soft copper tubing that comes in a coil and use flair fittings.... Dale

Copper tubing allows for lots of angle changes and mismeasurements... Black Iron pipe is rigid and does not allow as much 'Flexibility" as to how you route plumbing... Dale

Very good.... Looks substantial and very "workable".. Dale

Should read: "something to judge"....

Having sometime judge is the product of having a curriculum complete with instructions, techniques and sketches (with dimensions) for one to complete.... Having something to judge, first we must have a curriculum/specification... IF we can establish a program, all the rest will come in the natural order of things..... Dale