Dale M.

I only mentioned the NOX thing so others who may not know about it can do the research and become better informed.... Dale

Another thing to consider besides CO2 is NOX or Nitrogen oxides.... Produced when "air" is heated in combustion process.... The nitrogen (78% of air we breath) is converted to nitrogen oxides when combined with moisture is precursor to nitric acids.... I particularly do not what to breath NOX fumes and have it converted to nitric acids in my lungs and cause permanent respiratory problems.... Good ventilation where combustion process takes place is a must today as we tend to make out building sealed up tighter and tighter for environmental reasons.... And we forget our building need to breath too..... This is where the "sick building" syndrome comes from..... Dale 80% corrected to 78%

The spring material in question is about 9/16 in diameter (auto suspension spring) and I don't see it being **uncoiled** no matter hot it gets... I do see beating it into submission using heat, heavy tools and a anvil though... Intended use for spring material is for making punches and chisels and some slitting tools and other application needing hard steel.... Dale

No.... Sorry if I was unclear.... I guess I assumed (bad word) that everyone would know I meant hot working.... Dale

Was wondering if using a bronze or brass hammer is useful to do things like straightening out curve in auto coil springs to get a "straight" piece of material to work with without destroying the more or less pristine circular (round) shape of material.... Yes I understand anvil will leave its marks if proper swage block is not uses, but I don't have any swage blocks yet and not sure how to make one.... And do not want to distort ( hammer marks) surface of material any more than necessary.... http://www.harborfreight.com/2-lb-brass-hammer-with-hickory-handle-69103.html Every once in awhile these come up on pretty good sale price... Just wondering if purchase of brass hammer is useful.... Dale

Get's my vote.... Dale

Ok... that fine for Hardy's.... What about the Pritchel hole, where it's origins...... Dale

Anybody know a source for good tractor seats..... Most seat I find seem to be decorative (faux antique) or what to expensive for some "stamped steel"".... Dale

Think the vice is known as a "SWAN" vice or "farriers vice" for clamping horse shoes..... http://images.lmgtfy.com/?q=farriers+vice Dale

There is also a working group that meets in Mariposa CA. (about 75 miles from Fresno CA.), second Saturday of each month ... Only requirement is you have to be a CBA member for insurance purposes.... Dale

Only problem with your build is its in your shop and not mine.... Looks pretty good to me..... Forge on.... Dale

Very nice... Dale

I wonder about the water cooled part..... I see it mentioned in old publications (1860-1910 publications) but do not see or hear about it much today....Could it be a thing that has actually gone by the way side with the newer modern materials.... Could the process of using a water dipper and raining water on outer ring of coal/coke to help control fireball made the water cooling obsolete? Excluding the water cooling may simplify your forge construction, but then again it may shorten its life span... But then how long do you actually expect it to last.... Dale

I usually make a crater in center of coal/coke in fire pot, wad up one sheet of newspaper, lay some wood chips, splinters (kindling) on paper, douse it with charcoal lighter fluid (couple of table spoons full) and light.... Slowly move coal in to flaming mass and add air... Usually have useable heat in 5 to 10 minutes.... Dale

YES!.... This is what my latest stand is, this is what I meant by "cribbing method" in earlier comment.... Mine was made from all scrap ends from cut off bin at local wood truss company....Only investment was glue and screws... Only draw back is if you clamp anvil to tight to stand it tends to reverberate hammer strikes... IF you let anvil sit on top, and just just the proper amount of chain (clamp) to retain anvil where you want it but not pulled to tight it will be quieter... Learned this after backing securing bolts that hold chain a turn or two... Dale

Most most likely is 220volts (not Watts) ...... Gentleman names "OllyO" in this thread, seems to have worked with this blower.... Might try to contact him if he is still active here... http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/28704-alcosa-forge-dimensions/ (pages 2 & 3) Dale

Little update here... Got a Milwaukee rubber band, its not the right one, but with a little stretching I got it on... Also got a blade, since this saw cuts on heft side instead of right side I had to flip blade inside out to get teeth pointed in correct direction... So far $40 invested and am pretty happy with it... Dale

Old base (cart) for BBQ could make wonderful base for brake drum forge (that is what I used) and if its large enough it can double as a rack for all your tongs.... Dale

I just made decent stand for my 100lb Vulcan by cross stacking 2x4 cut to length and glued and screwed in a "cribbing" fashion... Might consider going to some wood working places or limber mills and see if the have any timber (dimensional) ends you can glue/screw/clamp together to create synthetic/artificial stump..... 4 - 6x6 timbers clamped together to create a 12x12 inch square should do just fine..... Go to Google Images and put in "Anvil Stand" as search string for ideas.... Or just click link below... http://images.lmgtfy.com/?q=anvil+stand Also a search string of "Anvil Base" brings up a whole set of different pics.... Dale

OK.... Propane Limits of Flammability - The lower and upper limits of flammability are the percentages of propane that must be present in an propane/air mixture. This means that between 2.15 and 9.6% of the total propane/air mixture must be propane in order for it to be combustible. If the mixture is 2% propane and 98% air, there will not be combustion. If the mixture 10% propane and 90% air, combustion will not occur. Any percentage of propane in a propane/air mixture between 2.15% and 9.6% will be sufficient for propane to burn. However, an improper air/gas mixture can produce Carbon Monoxide (CO) that is a deadly product of incomplete combustion. Flash Point - The flash point is the minimum temperature at which propane will burn on its own after having been ignited. This number states that below -156°F, propane will stop burning on it's own. In other words, if the outside air temperature is -155°F, propane will burn on it's own. If the outside air temperature falls to -157°F, propane will no longer burn on it's own. However, if a source of continuous ignition is present, propane will burn below - 156°F. Ignition Temperate in Air - This number states that propane will ignite if it reaches a temperature between 920-1020°F. If propane is heated up to a temperature between 920 and 1020°F, it will ignite without needing a spark or flame. Taken from this document... http://www.propane101.com/aboutpropane.htm Any time you can prevent the propane/air mixture from reaching ideal ignition point, you are "probably" safe.... Some thing as simply as removing valve from tank ... Be sure its empty first - New OPD valve have a no-flow valve that if there is not a regulator or connector fitted to valve outlet there is no release of gas.... By simply putting a hose from air compressor into valve "hole" (not connected, just freely inserted) and saturate inside of tank with a free flow of air, to upset the fuel/air ratio (ignition point) can prevent explosion....Maybe CO2 or nitrogen would be safer, but all you are doing is upsetting the chemical balance of the ignition point of the propane.... DISCLAIMER: Please do not hold me responsible if you have accident, and you did not do your own research to prove me right or wrong.... The information you need it out there .. YOU have to do independent research for yourself till you are comfortable with process.... Dale

As soon as you put a dollar restriction on yourself, you have doomed yourself to frustration and maybe failure.... Go collect recycle items and cash in at local recycle center or offer to mow lawns .... Money is out there (even in our uncertain times) just pursue it... You do not have to be "rich" but you have to be proactive and look for any opportunity to acquire things you need for the "hobby".... Brake drum forges are not expensive to build, any hammer will do (heavier the better) and block of steel will act as pounding surface (anvil).... IF you restrict your self from the start, you will never succeed... I have maybe $50 invested in home shop made forge, $250 in two quality hammers (about $38 each) and 6 pairs of tongs (inexpensive one at about $30 each), and my wonderful loving wife bought me a #100 pound anvil for my birthday.... I have put a certain restriction on my self at this point to not buy anything more unless I can justify it by actual "need"... Also have a few assorted freebies and hand me down to round out what I think I need ...I now feel I have the basics in tools... Now I have to lean how to use them.... Dale

"Youtube" has many videos on forge making either solid fuel (brake drum) or propane burner.... Some viewing here may give you inspiration on what will work for whatever you want to do.... Dale

Looks fine to me.... At some point you have to accept the metal is not always going to do what you want it to do and move on.... May be next one will be more to your liking.... I'm just happy if item halfway resembles something I see in pics and it is "recognizable" by others at this time... Dale

No matter how much bar you have in stock, you will find that what you have does not "work" for what you want to make..... Get some round stock, get some square stock, get some flat stock.... Get it in sizes near to what items you want to make.... Dale

Any body with a small metal lathe can probably cut a couple of bronze or oillite material bushing for you.... Just have to remember a drop of oil once in a while... Dale