Marc1

You have been hammered ... no that does not sound right ... you have been served a hammering. Yep

Thank goodness for grinders ... ha ha, good one. There is one more to your post, Welding like shooting takes not only practice but such practice needs to be kept up to date. You don't become a proficient welder and remain that way even if you don't weld unfortunately. If I have projects that do not involve welding and my project tend to stretch out for month, when I get back to welding something i stink for a while like any amateur.

Wow, so many good answers ... So most if not all agree that unless you work in a museum or demonstrations to show ancient techniques, if you are free from constraints of that nature, you have no issues welding when necessary. And so to my follow up question ... why is it that so many blacksmith I know, unless it is a series of unfortunate coincidences ... are lousy at welding? To me, correct me if I am wrong, it seems that the welder is wielded as a tool of last resort, a necessary evil used reluctantly, and not a valued tool to be proud of. I am trying to teach myself TIG because the beads can be either invisible or a thing of beauty. Yet would struggle to bring this in a conversation about blacksmithing. Oh ... before I forget the comment by our bird lover friend Interesting. Didn't know that. Although it happened in other languages too. The etymology of Herrero in spanish is metal worker, Fabbro in italian is simply a worker ... literarily a "doer", and schmied in german metal worker. All of them can be used today when referring to metal fabrication ... however that was not my intention ... but ... you may be onto something. If a welder in the workshop makes a blacksmith turn into a metal fabricator, then my question is pertinent. And if you think so, why do you? Others have noted correctly that the blacksmith of old was not a troglodyte stuck on old methods for the sake of it and opposed to change. To the contrary the traditional town blacksmith was on the vanguard of the available technology of the time and rushed to incorporate all sort of innovation when they become available. ironically it was those same innovations that doomed the forge in favour of the fabricator ...and the rest is history. Who can TIG weld properly?

When I started working in a smithy at age 15, the shop made decorative items large and small, from window grills and gates, to multi light pendant, beds, tables to small artefacts and trinkets, most made in small numbers and some custom made for customers who supplied their own design. The master blacksmith was a real artist with the pencil and his designs could be framed and could hang in anyone's living room with pride. He was equally skilled with the hammer, yet he was (in his own words) a progressivist. He did not give a toss about traditional methods, only aesthetics of results. He conceded that many times traditional method gives the best results, but whenever possible, modern fabrication methods must be employed. So he used a grinder, no not an angle grinder, they were not invented yet, but a contraption that had an electric motor hanging in a cage that could swing in any direction joint to a flexible shaft and a grinding stone at the end. He also used a large guillotine to cut stock, and was a master with the oxyacetylene and the arc welder. He used to say that his master joined scrolls with rivets that had to be countersunk and hidden and that arc welding was a bit of a cheat but made a piece commercially viable without taking away its artistic value if done properly. I sit on the fence on this. I have seen work by other blacksmith that have weld spatter all over it and visible weld beads like chicken poop. And other work that is equally welded but with the grace and finesse of a professional welder ... I personally am proud of my welding proess, yet to learn TIG properly, I plasma cut, have a large metal cold saw, a dozen grinders of all sizes nad would have a water jet CNC table if I had the room for it. Having said that ... I have also seen comments here and elsewhere of blacksmith that declare as if it was a badge of honor, that "they can not weld for peenuts", or that they don't even own a welder. I suppose that ... each to his own. If someone can get away with not welding at all, I suppose it's OK. A bit self limiting in my view but hei, who am I to criticise right? Reminds me of those purist jointer who don't use nails nor screws nor glue. Sure, a lot more work for little gain, but possible. Would hate to have to make a cabinet that way and sell it for a profit. It would cost a bomb for sure. So after all this rant, my point is ... should blacksmithing include welding as part of the craft? If you want to build something (besides a knife I suppose), you have to be able to weld past the chicken poop level. Good welding techniques in electric arc in all forms and oxyacetylene is very important. One welding form I have yet to learn and that I can see as potentially the best form of welding for a blacksmith is TIG welding. Hidden, uses nothing alien to the piece and needs hardly any dressing at all. Or should we only use rivets? ... and drill all holes by hand or pedal power? What do you think? Is welding wrong and alien to blacksmithing or is it part of it? What about plasma cutting? Sandblasting? Electric drills?

The picture seems to show a half open hand like when holding a hammer and a fully stretched arm and the person is standing up like a soldier that has seen the sargent coming in. No one forges that way. Increase the hight by 3 to 4 inches. For me anyway And no sargents please ...

Nee, that tool is to work on wood not stone nor masonry.

Ha ha, yes, that would be something. I have no idea since I never worked on an adjustable stand, but adjustment would be an occasional event that does not need to be instant. That why I thought a screw jack on each leg would be just fine. Hook up the handle and wind each leg up or down is a matter of a minute. If I ever build it I will be posting pictures for sure

The mortising tool makes sense seeing that the corner of the cutting edge is aligned with the side of the tool, however ... that would force you to keep the tool at 45 to make a straight angle. Weird. I say it is to cut bear's toenails. Or carve a V channel in a plank ... to make a hand made washing board?

Party pooper ... That thread about anvil height, never mentioned that for the one given blacksmith, and one given anvil the ideal height depends of the job at hand. of course once you build your stand you are sort of committed to the one height so you tend to believe that is the one and only height. I agree with the wrist height folks, however ... if it is winter and you have your heavy boots and triple socks on, or if it is summer and you have your tennis shoes on, your own heights can vary as much as an inch, ( I suppose ladies don't forge in heels ) so ... there goes the wrist height theory. I always played with the idea of building a tripod for another anvil that has one car jack in each leg. A Toyota screw car jack upside down would be ideal, cheap and sturdy. After all, the leg only takes the weight, and the strike even from a sledge is taken mostly by the mass of the anvil.

Not an axe ... may be some sort of carving tool?

Solid fuel is most likely out of the question due to smoke/smell. Go for a good propane forge. They do make a noise, and require good ventilation.

In fairness to double Roger, he is of course correct. Mine was tongue in cheek. Hardly anyone has a forged bench vice. Not so sure about cast hammers. Another obvious value with leg vice is the support given by the leg ... providing it is mounted correctly. I have seen countless post vice mounted on a bench with the leg dangling in thin air. A post vice must be mounted on ... a post, with the leg sitting on a sturdy support. This allows the user to walk around the vice. A bench vice is limited in that sense ... unless you mount your bench vice on ... a post.

Yes, Hofi cast steel hammer ... and Peter Wright bench vice

I have a bench vice that is forged and a hammer that is cast ...

Thank you Anvil .. I had forgotten that post. As for the spiral, best way is with a jig like Thomas and others have mentioned to avoid hammer marks on the face of the spiral.

Try to make a simple pendant light, say a 3 light one. Your double hook-knot thingy gives you a starting point

I am afraid that not even Gunther can save that anvil. I doubt there is much original faceplate still welded to the body. Of course it does not harm asking someone experienced in restoring anvils having a closer look. New faceplate can be build up with successive passes, hours of welding an 20 kilos of rods What it seems that anvil needs, (from the safety of my keyboard) is a completely new faceplate. A new plate is welded to the body by leaving a gap wide enough for a welding rod to fit between plate and body. THe plate is welded starting from a point in the center and going round and round until the gap is completely welded up and full welding is achieved on all the face. Needless to say that it will cost to get a new plate machined, if you can not do it yourself, and a few kilos of welding rods, not to mention a powerful possibly 3 phase or diesel powered 300 or 400 amp DC welder. Not rocket science but needs attention to detail and experience in stick welding, pre heating, a fume extractor and lots of patience. Of course the leftovers of the original plate need to be milled off, if it is determined it has no possibility of being repaired.

Treadle sandstone grinder ... man I remember when they sold them in the local hardware store ... the water tank was blue

Hi Ted ... welcome. You I believe are the second Sydneysider here. What brand is your anvil and what is the weight? Old English anvils are common in Australia, and they have a soft body and brittle edges unfortunately. Any repair you do to it even if done properly (not easy) will not give the edges strength nor will it make the body harder. You have a Landcruiser J20 1955. Don't try to make it into a Range Rover 2019, it will not happen and you may ruin her in the process. Keep it as it is. Polish all the sides with a wire wheel, I don't believe in the value of "patina", only in the value of the anvil, oil it, and save money for a Refflinghaus.

Yep ... tinnitus (perception of a non existing ringing) is very annoying. I had tinnitus since I was a teen from the times when hearing protection was only for a wuss. This days I use hearing protection for any activity, from forging to mowing the lawn, chainsaw, nailgun, everything requires some form of hearing protection for me.

Good post Slag, and you are right of course. Unfortunately actions or inactions are motivated by an array of reasons, the last being a practical, logical, or even cheap solution. The main reason usually taking advantage of a crisis to push totally unrelated agendas. I quoted the bureau of crime statistics and research to remain apolitical and show the truth. Of course facebook your neighbour or the ABC are another possible source. I stick with bocsar. Thank you Glenn ... wouldn't the anvil have to point south this time Thank you for your prayers ... the rain has just started and will allegedly be with us for a few days. http://www.bom.gov.au/products/IDR711.loop.shtml#skip

Presuming to know the source of my information is a bit rich from someone quoting the abc. Google arson or go to NSW BOCSAR, and please refrain from making assumptions. Relying on abc or worse ... "the guardian" for this sort of information is a bit out there ... This paper provides a summary of the key findings and implications from an analysis of approximately 280,000 fire incidents attended by 18 Australian fire services, typically within a five-year period (Bryant 2008). It focuses on the extent of, and potential factors responsible for, the temporal and spatial distribution of deliberately lit fires across Australia, particularly as they compare with non-deliberate fires. Differences in the way fire causes are attributed - including differences in the number and proportion of fires of unknown cause, the way fires lit by children are classified (accidental versus malicious), as well as genuine differences in the principal causes of fires - may hamper effective integration of information across jurisdictional and interagency boundaries. While detailed knowledge of fire causes is necessary to implement efficient and targeted arson reduction strategies, there is a strong correlation between the increased incidences of deliberate fires and greater densities of fires generally. Even in the absence of rigorous causal information, total incidence data can provide a valuable guide to deliberate fire hot spots. Number Of Fires Fire services attend between 45,000 and 60,000 vegetation fires in Australia every year. These fires typically account for 40 to 50 percent of all fires attended. Most occur in New South Wales (36%), Queensland (21%), Western Australia (15%) and Victoria (12%; 2002-03 to 2005-06; APC 2007). Causes Of Fires While Australia is particularly fire-prone, natural fires account for only six percent of known causes of vegetation fires attended by fire services. Over 90 percent are the result of people's actions, and more often than not the result of deliberate ignitions; incendiary (maliciously lit fires) and suspicious fires account for one-half of known fire causes in Australia, and are the largest single cause of vegetation fires (Figure 1). However, if we consider in this analysis that accidental fires, which account for 35 percent of all known vegetation fire causes, include those accidentally lit by children and smoking-related fires, the proportion of preventable vegetation fires is much higher. Forty percent of all fires attended across Australia do not have a cause assigned by the responding fire agency. Figure 1 : 'Known' vegetation fire causes (percent) Source: Combined Australian fire agencies [computer data file] [Typically crime statistics become better with age. After a few years, the need for polishing, massaging and distorting the truth becomes less attractive for obvious reasons. As you can see, 85% of fires are started by human hands. half of them by negligence, half maliciously. Masking this reality is the full time job of the abc and other people out there.]

Ha ha ... what I am saying is that you are correct and to grind that ugly spring off the anvil. You can then anchor properly with U bolts flat bar, anything solid. A spring is only good to stop he anvil from ringing, not stopping it from bouncing around.

I had an email recently in reply to some comments I made in relation to hazard reduction, 'telling' me that fuel loads are "constant" due to decomposition and that therefore it is useless to back burn. In your area, decomposition is much faster due to higher moisture and temperatures. Down here, with drought and lower temperatures in winter, fuel accumulates for 15 to 30 years before the accumulation levels out. It is this kind of misinformation that makes it possible for local authorities to get away with blocking fuel reduction efforts. It is a sad state of affairs. The coming royal commission will most likely provide some answers ... but as usual too little too late.

Grind away with the conviction of the righteous. Never ceased to amaze me what people do for (not) anchoring anvils. If there is something I can not watch is a bouncing anvil.