Marc1

Hi Tock. That is a nice chair and the forged parts are not particularly hard to make. The forging part is actually basic. Getting the right proportions, correct stock size and putting it all together nice and neat and symmetrical is the challenge

Ferre ... I heard this argument before. All the blacksmith that talk about rebound on an anvil don't know what they are talking about.. Rebound is useless because you hit hot steel so there is no rebound right? What's the point? The argument is so moot that it is not worth debating. It just makes for good internet argumentation ... once again. And it will no doubt be resurrected in a few years... or decades? Meantime everyone that buys an anvil will continue to test it with a ball bearing and well advised to do so. For the supporters of no bounce does not matter, save some money and buy a chinese ASO. They go for real cheap at your corner hardware store.

TJ, you made a few good points in your text but I miss your point in the video. Ball bounces on anvil, a bit less on cold steel, not at all on hot steel ... OK ... the point? Does that mean we can all now buy ASO from China because it does not make any difference anyway? Not a novel topic either. There is a recent youtube video stating that anvil bounce is horse etc Rebound on an anvil is important because it saves the Blacksmith's energy that is limited. Good anvil you work through the day. Bad anvil you get a sore arm at best. Any blacksmith can tell you that. And subjective explanations are all that is needed. It is for the armchair experts to make it 'scientific' Rebound on a power hammer anvil? Saves energy too, but the amount is so small and the energy of the power hammer so excessive that it is irrelevant. Rather obvious. The comment about carpenter hammer is a joke of course and I will not address it. Point 4? see point 1. Point 5? Only the marketing department at F&N can answer that. I suggest a phone call.

Looks good.

Oh my ... don't get me started with the anti-coal brigade. I have a string of epithet to define them that are not site-friendly. Back to the original question, why blacksmithing. The trade has certainly benefited from a resurgence fed mainly from bladesmithing TV series. i am not complaining. The tool market has widened and I can buy tongs, hammers and assorted blacksmithing tools on line from the most unlikely places. Not necessarily cheap but 20 years ago completely non existent. The last blacksmith supplier went out of business in Sydney just about 25 years ago. It is mainly a hobby this days for most this side of the pond. Short of a few hanging in there, most so called blacksmith are actually metalworkers that hardly ever use the forge. Unlike Europe and USA we don't' have a tradition of blacksmithing and no one knows the difference between a farrier and a blacksmith anyway. Small patchy little blacksmith associations around the country all amateur and what you see is horseshoes, little hooks, and someone showing how to make tongs. Sad really. So why do it? For me it is because I like doing it. Surely don't need a job anymore but it is a satisfaction like modeling clay or carving wood, build a gate or a railing or some stairs. Was thinking in making a lift shaft for when I can no longer go up and down my 3 story house. Lets see how that project pans out

Good way to dispose data safely. In Australia the Government has an easier method. They lock all the highly sensitive documents in a cabinet. Wrap the draws with tape and sell the unit to a second hand dealer. Job done !

Yes ... I remember doing that to my old black and white TV ... very effective! The advantage of getting started as an apprentice is that you don't need to buy anything. I used to pack a bit of cotton wool to stuff in my ears and that was it.

No chance to take a hammer to work and hit the computer with it?

Lots of good personal answers. Mine is rather simple. I was 15 and needed a job

That is my thought when I see the trouble and work people get into making railroad anvils and the like. Small anvils called tinsmith anvils can be had for little money. They are not particularly useful for general blacksmithing but for small projects they work fine if you set them on a largish base. Welding will cost much more in rods and electricity than buying a proper anvil. A small anvil set on a large iron tripod properly anchored will be a useful tool for a beginner.

Hundred of ideas on Pinterest

I did not know you can call a void in the forging process a cold shut. I thought it only refers to casting defects. But like I said before ... not sure.

Considering that the dimple was made with a punch and not a drill, the amount of metal in the corner has not changed, so there is no difference in the strength of the tool with or without the 'dimpel' If it was me I would just fill the hole with a drop of electric weld and file it down. As far as the term cold shut, I am not sure it is the appropriate term, but happy to be corrected.

Well ... I don't live in Polk county so don't know what the exhaust shop guys charge, but one weld can not cost much at all.

Ha ha, I like Thomas' solution. I was thinking in rolling a piece of thin steel sheet that does not need to be SS ... actually you could use copper, some 3" wide and some 5" long wrap it around your exhaust pipe twice nice and tight, and hold it in place with two good hose clamps. You are talking about a precarious field fix, so forget stainless. This patch will stay in place for another 10 years anyway.

After reading the whole thread I still don't know what you want to do, but if it is joining SS exhaust pipe, all you need is a TIG welder. Cheap to buy, not easy to operate. Find a local welder and get him to do it.

I wouldn't pay neither 800 nor 900 in Australia where anvils are twice the price then in the US ... then again, I learned that places like SF can be a killer. In Derry you have to deal with the paranormal so ... who knows! Seriously now, seriously overpriced from where I sit anyway.

Yep ... I have the exact same in my sliding door at the back of the house. 4m wide and with 9 lights each side 6mm laminated glass they weight a ton and I had to buy industrial strength. Designed for a rural shed. Mine are made in Italy.

I would take both jaws off and use it as a bench anvil for small jobs with small hammers.

The only problem with that anvil, besides it's outrageous price for its size .... is that it is not leveled ... Seriously now, considering an NC anvil at 112lb is worth $440 plus shipping, I wouldn't even consider that one unless you have a thing with the brand. Also ... depending what you intend to forge, 100 or 112 lb is marginal for forging unless of course you intend to make knives ... what am I saying of course everyone wants to make knives, Marc shut up. As for blacksmithing, I think that ideally you need around 200 lb anvil give or take 10%. Sure you can forge on a 10 Kg piece of rail, I said ideally.

Ha ha, gotcha

What sort of question is that?

He is still cause has no head yet. Should see when he is finished !

Check out Jordan Sprigg, he is an aussie that makes sculptures and has plenty of kangaroos on display. May be too big and time consuming but you can get some ideas. Also on pinterest, many more from the very simple made with scrap parts.