Jump to content
I Forge Iron

90degree corner cold shut question


Recommended Posts

As it is, it shouldn't form a cold shut because you won't be working the corner down anymore if you want to maintain parent thickness through the corner.  If you want, you can get in there with a round file and clean up the corner, minimizing or eliminating the divot caused by the center punch.  That's never a bad idea simply because it, well, cleans up the corner and makes everything look nice.

Considering how little work log tongs actually get, I wouldn't be worried at all about the divot being a weak point.  You'll likely use the tongs a few times, relatively, every year even if you're burning wood constantly for heat.  The steel should be plenty strong even with that little ding in the corner.  Or, just use really small logs. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Considering that the dimple was made with a punch and not a drill, the amount of metal in the corner has not changed, so there is no difference in the strength of the tool with or without the 'dimpel' 

If it was me I would just fill the hole with a drop of electric weld and file it down. 

As far as the term cold shut, I am not sure it is the appropriate term, but happy to be corrected.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Marc1 said:

Considering that the dimple was made with a punch and not a drill, the amount of metal in the corner has not changed, so there is no difference in the strength of the tool with or without the 'dimpel' 

If it was me I would just fill the hole with a drop of electric weld and file it down. 

As far as the term cold shut, I am not sure it is the appropriate term, but happy to be corrected.  

You make a good point about the mass still being there.   

A bit of weld wouldn't hurt, I think, and it would make it easy to keep the thickness and lines looking right.

A cold shut is where the metal has collapsed and covered over a void.  Since this one isn't closed up, it's not a cold shut yet.  I don't see it becoming one unless more hammering is done, but that would also ruin the lines of the piece, reducing the corner below parent stock thickness.  It's threatening to become one, but it's not there yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually a center punch mark will create what is called a stress riser, and should be smoothed out.

Try this experiment. Take a strip of paper about 1" wide or so and the length of a sheet of paper, and cut a vee notch in the middle that is say 1/4" deep, and pull one end _have someone else hold it or clamp it somehow. Where did it tear apart? Now take an identical piece but instead of a vee notch cut a concave radius 1/4" deep in the middle and 1" long, and pull on it.

If I remember right the ratio for depth to length for faring in a nick or gouge is 4:1 with the length being 4 times the depth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...