thingmaker3

Make it four, Tom. (I don't get the chance to log on here every day.) Please remember also that for everyone who posts on any given forum, there are about 50 folk who agree but remain silent. So you've got at least 200 interested parites.

Problem is, we're agreeing instead of arguing. Or maybe that's not a problem. :D

Just a quick note, since no one has mentioned it yet: Molten lead and especially boiling lead produce unhealthy fumes. Use adequate ventalation and a respirator specifically designed for said fumes. If you plan to try HT with lead, you can check the NIOSH website for more information.

I'm not perfect enough to keep the burn marks 100% off my hammer handles. No fiberglass for me, thanks - I can't stand the smell of burning synthetics. I've occasionally used fiberglass handles on framing hammers, but I don't like the way they feel. I do indeed like the leather-covered steel-handled framing hammers. Never tried a steel-handled smith's hammer.

I agree with Rich Hale. Put wheels on it.

Odd, is it not, that this mythical effect applies to anvils but not the dies of power hammers?

Experiments on plain carbon steels show no more than a point or so Rc improvement - less than the error range on your average Wilson tester. Still worth it for perfectionists or thrillseekers. The higher alloy steels will see substantial improvement, as they have lower Mf temps and much more retained austenite.

It was 1/4" thick wall 3" square tube. You want it flexed, you go flex it! :P

I was busting some enamel off tube just yesterday. It's not what I'd call "fragile." Stuff clings tenaciously. A good whack with a 3 pounder is what I needed to make it let go.

I've never known anyone to make such a claim. Guess you know more about that than I do, so I'll bow to your superior experience in the matter.

Some of which are more clear than others. What exactly ARE you trying to say here? That Thomas Powers speaks truly and usefully in post #2 of this thread? If so, then I'll agree with you.

Only if you consider 2797F(1360C) to be "low."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straw_man

It is important to learn the difference between "specifications" such as "A36" or "A66" and "grades" such as "O1" or "L6." A "specification" is a list of performance standards, possibly including a microstructural requirement or loose limits on composition. A "grade" is a fairly tight limit on composition with no regard whatsoever to microstructure or performance.

"Tempering" is a very very old word recently re-defined to a tighter meaning. The original meaning was simply and vaguely "heat treating." About a century ago (give or take) the term "temper" was also used to refer to carbon content. Nowadays "temper" means "a subcritical heat treatment to improve the toughness of martensitic microstructures by the formation of various distributions of iron and alloy carbides." (Definition paraphrased from George Krauss.)

Per the ASM's Source Book on Stainless Steels, the non-magnetic 300 series should be forged 1700F to 2000F or more. Actual ranges depend on actual alloy, of course. I'm told that is a salmon-to-orange range. (I don't forge by color because I suck at judging color. I forge by brightness.) And, yes, forging stainless will make a man out of you if you survive the experience. :huh:

You can have them sandblasted to clean them down to the steel. Optionally, you can buy a power supply and the correct alkaline chemical for electrolyitic removal. I'd go with sandblasting.

Rifle-bedding compound?

If you or one of your buddies can make circuit boards, try a type K thermocouple, an AD595 chip, and a cheap analog voltmeter.

The spring is a good add since 6011 rods were used. Wouldn't need the spring if low-hydrogen rods had been available. :lol:

I still have my college chemistry textbook. B) "Inert" means "wont react under our specific circumstances." The definition of "inert" therefore changes along with circumstances. Nitrogen can indeed be used as an inert gas for some operations, but not for others.

If you get the Henrob, you NEED the special regulators. The Henrob (Dillon, Cobra, whatever they're calling it this week) uses a lot less gas than a Victor. The standard regulators will give you fits. I just LOVE my Henrob!

I heartily endorse the newsletters from both the BAM and the NWBA.

I began my blacksmithing hobby about seventeen years ago while working in a factory. Part of my job involved making precise (+ or - 0.015) adjustments on just-welded (CNC MIG) parts by beating them with a mallet. Curios about blacksmithing as a result, I read Bealer. That got me hooked. My 25 are: eye protection, hearing protection, proper clothing, big hammer, medium hammer, little hammer. anvil, forge, vice, cold chisel, big hot chisel, medium hot chisel, small hot chisel, tongs for small stuff, tongs for medium stuff, small punches, medium punches, drifts, top swages/fullers, and bottom swages/fullers.

http://en.wikipedia....h_%28drawing%29 Some smiths bring cameras to hammer-ins or classes. I bring a sketch pad. I also use one to record any ideas I have. I sketch whatever is required of me. (I can also make technical drawings, either with CAD or the old fashioned way, but that is not "sketching." And tech drawing for blacksmiths is the same as tech drawing for anyone else. Only the subject matter changes.)