DSW

There's a lot of info out on the web about adjusting the 4x6 Harbor freight bandsaws, both tutorials and videos. Those tips will work on most bandsaws out there, even if they aren't from HF. The basic 4x6 saws are almost all clones of one another and the same basic ideas also work on other saws. One thing that occasionally is overlooked is a bad blade. If you have tried to cut something that might have been hardened, it's possible to have wiped the teeth on one side of the blade. If so the blade will tend to want to "walk" towards the side with the good teeth as that side cuts faster than the other does.

As I remember Fort Hood is one of the biggest installations in the country. I know it supports armor and artillery, general motor pool and possibly helos, so there should be any number of shops set up for maintenance, service etc as well as facilities for those maintenance troops to train / practice even if they don't perform those tasks regularly. You might have to ask someone who knows someone how to locate and access these facilities. I'm not sure what other installations might be in your area as well. I doubt with the size of Hood there are very many other Army bases near by that aren't linked to Hood, but there may be National Guard, Air Force, or even Navy installations around that you may be able to access for Rec facilities/Exchanges. Once on base, you may be able to go visit their maintenance / repair facilities and talk "shop" with them for possible access.

Being in the military, you may have a lot of options available to you that you may not be aware of. When I lived on base out near Seattle, we had a fully equipped wood shop almost no one ever used that was part of the Rec program. The Sub base near by had a fully equipped auto shop that included OA torches and a bunch of different welders. I forget what the ship yard had as far as additional Rec facilities. The big thing was very few sailors even bothered to learn what other facilities were available for their use other than the bowling alley / gym etc. Besides this, the base had any number of machine shops, service areas etc that often were under used that you could get access to if you knew who to talk to. Often if you wandered by and talked to the guys on the floor they'd be happy to let you use the lathe or mill off hours or on weekends if they weren't in use. Swinging buy and talking "shop" with them and maybe bringing some cold ones or a box of donuts could get you access to all sorts of tools and equipment as well as scrap and materials.

This is the type of tie wire tool I use. It free spins 360 deg as long as you want.

If you do want to have something attached to yourself, you might take a chapter from divers. Often divers want something attached to themselves, but they want the ability to be able to cut or break it away in an emergency. While string is what many use, it's probably not the best idea around machinery where you may not have time to cut yourself loose. Zip ties are popular because it doesn't take a lot to break them. Orings are another common attaching method. A good size Oring can be passed thru something, then passed thru itself to tie it off. They are often used on items like that clip shown in the 1st post to attach regs and other items. The small clip on my primary reg is attached that way. This way I can clip it off and not have it dangling if I have to change regs for some reason, but in an emergency, if you grab it, you'll break the small Oring and be able to breath off the reg.

Dry cut metal saws have a few downsides to keep in mind.They do not take well to some materials like hardened stock. It takes only an instant to ruin a fairly expensive blade if the stock you are trying to cut is hardened. You might think that you don't plan to cut any "hardened" stock, but a lot of cheap "mild" steel that is coming in from overseas has a lot of remelt stock in it and can have a lot of hard spots. You also run into hardened steel fairly regularly if you use found "mystery" steel, or are cutting stuff that has been forged and possibly quenched. They also throw around a lot of very sharp chips. If you aren't getting the accuracy of cut you want out of a horizontal bandsaw, the saw needs to be adjusted, or you are way too picky. I can make cuts well under 1/64" with my bandsaw if set up right, and my saw isn't all that great. I will grant you on the size issue, but the bandsaw has a lot going for it like being able to gang cut stock, cut stock while I'm doing other tasks in the shop and being a whole lot quieter than almost any of my other cutting tools. The bandsaw is probably my most used saw and I'd use it even more if I could get it out of where I store it easier. I understand the need of wood workers for accuracy, especially from those who come from a furniture or stain grade trim back ground. However metal work ( other than machining) doesn't require anywhere near that level of precision. I can fill huge gaps with a welder if need be. Many times if I need better precision than I can get with a chopsaw, I'll cut the stock heavy, then grind or sand to the line, pretty much the same way you would with wood.

With a beard like that you need a straight razor that size. Nice work.

While looking up something else today I came across this article about the 1st AC units. I thought all of you might find it of interest that at the time Willis Carrier was employed by the Buffalo Forge Company. The Carrier Air conditioning company was started as a subsidiary of Buffalo Forge. http://www.williscarrier.com/1876-1902.php

Thanks for the update. Now we just have to get him working with hot iron at some point!

That Hypertherm is designed as a drag tip compared to many cheap import models that require you hold off the work. Dragging shouldn't effect the tip unless you outrun the cut and blow a lot of metal back into the tip. You'd have a similar issue cutting when not dragging as well, but a bit less. Get yourself a Motor Guard filter. It will take out a lot more water and stuff that normal coalescing filters won't. If you go with a table, you may want to invest in a descant dryer or an electric dryer to help with moisture. I use my HP 1000 for cutting leaves, disks and such. I've been making do with my small compressor but I can't wait until I get the chance to drag my "new" 80 gal, IR compressor home and hook it all up. 19 CFM @ 175 PSI. That plus the extra 60 gallon tank should set me up just in case I ever run across an air hammer in my travels...

No most welders are listed as output amperage. The little toaster maxes out at 70 amps of output. As far as using 115v vs 230v for power on dual use welders, 230v will always give you better results. #1 you get more output from the circuit on average. My Maxstar 200 wants a 30 amp circuit to get the most out of 115v power. Even then Max output is something like only 150 amps. On a standard 20 amp circuit I can usually get 125 amps output if I'm lucky, but the machine doesn't weld anywhere near as smooth as it will set at 125 amps if I'm on a 230v circuit. To get the full 200 amps out of the machine, I have to be using a 30 amp 230v circuit IIRC. If you have to install a dedicated circuit anyways, 230v will give you the most bang for your buck. Most buzz boxes and plasmas will want a 50 amp 230v circuit. Most 230v migs will want something in the 25-40 amp range as far as circuits. If you put in a 50-60 amp circuit you cover most of your bases. Larger industrial welders that are single phase may want even more power, but most will run at lower output on a 50-60 amp circuit. The exception is if the have the power factor capacitors (PFC's) Then you'll probably need a 70-125 amp feed to the machine. That amount of power will allow full output on most of even the industrial class single phase welders.

Nailguns don't work well for pulling nails, nor do they hold up well for pounding on things for demolition ( or even to move stubborn pieces into place so you can nail them ( though some do try), They also don't dig well either. I have yet to find a nailgun that drives steel concrete stakes, or is good for setting form wedges, All things I regularly do with my 28 or 30 oz Estwing claw hammer.

The usual discussion back and forth with framing hammers is mass vs acceleration. The steel hammers have more mass, but the Ti hammer can be swung faster because it's lighter. The Ti crowd usually totes the idea that a lighter mass swung faster imparts more energy than a heavier mass swung slower. It's the same argument that's gone back and forth in the shooting community for over 100 years having to do with bullets.

Those look a bit short, and are missing the extra piece for support as a foot that most have. The plant holder ends also are a bit on the "clunky" side since they aren't tapered and just whacked off the base stock diameter. I've found shepherds crooks to be a tough sale. Between time and materials it's tough to price them at a reasonable price and compete with the $15-20 ones made in China that every hardware store or garden center is selling. It doesn't seem to matter that yours are stiffer and stronger and won't bend compared to the cheap 1/4" or 3/8" ones the stores sell, people simply remember the cheap store price. The few I've sold were either custom ordered by specific customers who knew up front about the added costs, but were tired of the cheap ones always failing, or they were highly decorative. If it had been me, I might have given the crooks away as presents or gifts to the wedding guests. Usually the MC at the reception usually wants to play some party games and give away something like the centerpieces on the tables or such. The crooks would have been good for that. They would also have been cheap "advertising" of what you can do with your skills that might have brought you some other work from people or their friends who saw them. Option 2 would be to "finish" them by adding leaves and vines or other decorations to help them stand out from other store bought items. If I was going to sell these at a fair, I'd buy one of the cheapest flimsiest store bought ones and two identical hanging plants ( heavy ones). I'd put my crook side by side with the store bought one with plants on each and good signage asking customers which crook they'd prefer to have their plants on.... The quality difference would be very clear and help explain the added costs.

Personal or school project? I ask because if it's for a school robotics program you may be able to find a local foundry who might cast your parts with "excess" material from other pours at little or no cost. That's assuming you can deal with the time issue waiting until they have enough to get you all your parts cast. That would save you a lot of the hassle. You just make the master pattern and they do what they do best.

Cab's been off the 08 at least 6 times now for repair work... In Dec visiting family when the truck broke down I couldn't find anyone who would even look at it because the cab might have to come off. That included 2 different Ford dealers! My mechanic just bought a new shop and the 1st question I asked is if the new bays will be high enough to pull and lift the cab. yesterday I saw the tell tale signs of another radiator leak. It goes in Monday for the mechanic to double check my diagnosis. If so it will be Radiator #5 in the truck... 6 months on #4, and we still haven't hit 95K on the clock. It wouldn't be so bad if they didn't have to pull about 7 other radiators off to get to the main one that always leaks. Stupid engineers from Ford. Parts place will warranty the old radiator ( again) but I'll still be out $500-600 for the labor. All because somebody though plastic and alum would work well together as a radiator.

Half lap joints?

I might move the bathroom and kitchen to the "back" away from the garage areas myself. I'd do what they want to get the ocupancy permit, then blow out the wall between the "servants quarters" and the garage once everything is done. I'd rough in all the headers where I want doors so all I really had to do is knock out the drywall and maybe a few cripple studs to gain access. I can see putting in at least two access areas into the "house" portion. This would allow me to use the "quarters" as tool storage, a wood working room, dedicated welding room etc. What goes on inside is none of their business and the building can always be reconverted later if need be when you go to sell. I'd have all the kitchen cabinets filled with tools for storage in a heart beat.

That right there tells me you've worked for a living. I can almost always tell whether or not someone has worked construction or some sort of outdoor job by whether or not they offer workers cool drinks and possibly some where like the garage out of the sun where they can sit and eat lunch/take a break. Things like that don't seem to occur to those who work in an office all day. Every year when I take my forging class I always drag a 5 gallon Igloo cooler with water and ice with me daily for anyone who wants it. I know I'll personally go thru at least a gallon and a half of water even on a cool day. People who have never worked in hot environments don't realize how much liquids they need, and I almost never bring anything back at the end of the day unless it's what was left in the bottom that wouldn't come out unless you tipped the cooler. That's besides the small cooler of personal drinks like Gatorade that I bring for myself.

Sounds to me like possibly someone complained so they sent out the letter. I've found that often government officials will often just make up rules and then bluff while threatening actions even when they don't have the right to do so. It's an easy way to deal with someone who complains about something. If they are "looking into the matter" that would tell me that they really don't know what laws may or may not apply to you. I've had inspectors stand there and threaten me with court action to stop doing something that I was clearly with in my rights to do. When I was able to pull out the actual reg and quote it showing I was in the right, they back pedaled and tried to cover their bluff. Don't count on them to actually know the regs and apply them fairly. You need to know what the laws say and be prepared to stand there and defend yourself if you are in the right. What the inspector was there to do was simply bully me into making changes I didn't have to do, so the pest up the street would stop showing up to town meetings and complaining, or writing complaint letters. If you are a business, I'd be looking at a lawyer myself. They are expensive, but they should know how to dig out the info you want to defend your position. You may find that laws written to cover modern uses have clauses written in that exempt "historic" uses like steam engines and so on the burn coal for modern emissions regulations.

Very nice. If you were closer I'd be visiting so I could make a mold pattern from it. I know exactly what I'd be casting this summer in the iron casting class I want to take!

Picts! We need Picts!

Anvils that have been in a fire can be "soft" as they can loose their heat treatment. You can do a rebound test on the anvil in question to tell you a lot about that particular anvil. Myself, I've always liked the lines of Trenton anvils and I'd happily pay that if it is in good condition.

Thanks for posting those Steve. A system like yours has been on my around to project list for a bit. The detailed picts show a lot more to the system than I'd originally suspected.