Steve Sells

we had a LONG talk in the chat about this individual. When not preaching his insane drivel, he is attacking almost every other maker of blades he comes accross. He has NO clue about safety or heat treating, he admits he don't need it. Read it for fun and entertainment, but remember to check Qualified sources, before you believe anything he says.:cool: IF you want more entertainment, look at Anvilfire forum, in the Guru chat section, he started his attack there in his post on Dec 02, 2008

pour in place ?

starting out you will ruin a few, so junkyard does keep the cost down during your learning curve, but junkyard is a crap shoot as to what you get, even when we think an item is one kind of a steel, we are often surprised. As for blade size, as large as you can hold, as I only hammer a small section at a time. Its the heat treating after ward that needs a larger heat source. I have been able to harden up to18 inch blades in a fire pot before I have to use the 36 inch long gasser.

Since no one mentioned this... Do NOT try for too high of a layer count as the nickel will defuse into the steel at high ( 600 or more ) layers in the typical thickness of a knife blade.

not at all. the mild is harder to weld, and needs more heat, basically after you understand mild, the Higher carbon will seem easy I start my apprentices on mild. its a good way to begin.

knee mail sent.

FYI i was told a while ago that sears does NOT warranty their tools for anything but home owner usage. NO commercial work. I pointed out my sister is a lawyer, and then they gave me a new socket, but also a paper stating the official return policy, so lifetime does NOT APPLY, to anyone that actualy uses their tools ?.

my wife got me a new one even before I finished pulling the wiring on the new shop. its 4 foot from me about waist high. CO CO2 and an alarm with adjustable PPM to trigger it! big LED display so I can monitor it myself while I am forging.

Please don't shout. FYI Caps lock is bad neticate and very hard to read.

nothing wrong with additions of Chrome and Nickel, Add 3/4% of chrome to simple 10XX series and ya get 5160, add 2% nickel to that and get L6, both of which are great for blades. While this math is not 100% true, it is a close enough approximation for you to understand my point.

Just an FYI: tell your cement supplier what you are to be using the mix for. Its not just thickness for support. There are many different mixes available, ratings are based in pounds per square inch of force. My shop floor is a 6.5 inch average depth of 4500 mix, with 5/8 rebar on a 3 foot grid, in addition to the 6 inch wire mesh. these additions did not cost much 120 for all the rebar at the scrap yard, for cut offs (known as drops, I got 300 pounds worth) the concrete is normally 3500 for a side walk or driveway parking area. I added $30 for 3.5 cu yards for the stronger stuff. I did use the std 3500 mix with rebar for the entry, and the base of the Forge chimney. I figured with all the effort into this, what is a few more $$ when looking at the life time of the shop, and I did not want to have to make reapirs later. I also braised all the rebar to a 4 ga ground wire. so my floor is strong and electrically safe.

Welcome to IFI Charlie. Now start posting, and let us get to know you

Welcome you are not the only younger smith here. You have a lot of company, and all will help you when we can.

Welcome, join out online chat for live Q & A time too

I have done a few bike parts, in damascus, Someday I want do a springer front end for the soft tail in pattern welded steels.

welcome to the nut house plenty of gas users here.

the last time I tested any, they were 1080 but like all used/recycled/found steels it can be anything.

Also the added fire risk due to that down draft effecting the exiting heat/fumes. One more reason nat'l code dictates a min 2 foot. Also note combining two 6 inch pipes into one 12 inch pipe is common.

glad he is back home and with his family. Prayer works!

Now I got to go buy a new keyboard, I have drooled all over this one;)

not the mortor, most flux eats away the liners... Use a kiln shelf or similar as a barrier.