Steve Sells

Look into Coal Iron Works. made in Indiana and much better prices, plus they are great guys to deal with

this is akin to mounting an anvil on a stick, it so I agree with Frosty, material does not matter

No-al-ox aka Nolox as for yellow77, a quart will last but its cheap get more if you have other uses for it

poly is the better lube in WARM temps, but it freezes like sand and that makes it near impossible to pull then, so I advise in this cold stay with 77, and a quart is plenty

Not a good idea to bundle them, they will bind if you do; they need to slip to allow for bends they dont really cross that much when pulling

I would first tape one white for neutral, then another red for one leg of transformer, leave remaining black for other side of transformer. working alone I would feed wire into the pipe as I lay the pipe, you need a group to pull 3 of those 500mcm at once, Dont forget pull lube like Yellow77 or Ploywater if you cant find 77

fwiw color code the three before you pull the wire

I have to disagree with that Frosty, its takes a lot of electricity to crack the bond between Hydrogen and Oxygen and as physics states about the conservation of energy, there is no free ride, it takes more electrical power to crack it than you get from re burning hydrogen. so its neither free nor cheap

then reweld it

Where you have more than 2 tool arms needing a place to live I dont waste time retooling the arms, I have them mounted and I change out the arm as one assembly/ Its faster switching back and forth that way I am set up with arms for the 10 inch contact, 3 inch contact and slack belt combo arm, small wheel arm, 44 radius platten. That's 4 arms currently and since only one can be used at a time I have to put the other three arms somewhere when they are not being used. If this doesn't make sense to you, then I am not sure I understand your question Mine mount on the wall of my shop when not being used, not the grinder

why do you think a little Chrome in an alloy help to prevent corrosion? its Chrome oxides formed by FREE chrome in the matrix that make SS be stainless, The 1% chrome or so in alloys like 5160 and 4140 wont matter

you sure its 330 ft you ordered? our PMs stated other

no clue, back lighting an object make it hard to see

welding to the solid side has better leverage than the movable side

normally when melting a metal you want to reach a higher temp than the melting point to allow for the times it takes to move it from the heat to the pouring mold, Your question tells me you have not cast metals before, copper isnt the best starting point, try Aluminum first to learn the ropes them move to other metals

I use 8 through 44 inch depending on the style. The 44 inch radius is a water cooled platen I have, great for straight razors

4 inch is more viking fuller than hollow grind, and I cant imagine using a hard metal contact wheel

no, sometimes you have to cough up the cash to get the tools to do the job, I didnt spend my money on a Bader B3 for fun

I switched to using a 2# hammer to type, KBs last much longer this way

I cant type very well

spend 100 more and get a Coate or Grizly

its a delta there is no such thing as delta wye, and it should be 240 volts for the high leg

Iron needs to have more than 0.3 to noticeably harden, that isnt going to happen from the heating and carbon monoxide reduction of iron oxide, as you put it Iron plus carbon equals steel. its either iron or its steel

NO but you came close here : Folks. Iron is as strong as bronze. But iron that has been quenched and then tempered, is much stronger than bronze. Ausstinite forms when carbon is trapped in the iron matrix, If no carbon, then no hardening

Quenched iron is the same as non quenched iron, quenching does nothing to iron and tempering has no effect on iron either