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I Forge Iron


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  1. First test assembly. Starts looking like something: Still a lot of work to do but I'm happy with the progress.
  2. Hi there, slow and steady I'm making progress. But I had to change my process because I busted the carbide blade somehow. Didn't changed the pressure or something else but somehow on the last cut the blade lost 5-6 tooth. Now I changed to pre-drilling and then cutting with a standard metal blade and it works pretty good. I finished rough cutting the two raisers, one hinge, the flat platten, the workrest and one part of the tracking. For the big side plate I got some help from my dad's colleague. He did the big 130 mm / 5'' hole on a mill. He also did one pass on the outside profile of both side plates. So they have the same profile and are looking great. Greetings!
  3. Hi Frosty, like I said I build a shed (10x11x10 ft) and a pool deck (16x21x4 ft) this year. I did hundreds of cuts with the miter saw, table saw and hack saw. And I learned a lot about my machines. But it is something different than a reciprocating saw cutting 1/2'' metal. I did all the design myself and both projects are looking pretty good for a full time office worker Absolutely right, I don't have metall bandsaw to do it. And for the cutting oil, I probably make every mistake/miss thought I could do...
  4. Hi Frosty, I just cut the next part with the reciprocating saw. And I didn't use additional weight. I had doubts about it after thinking about it over night. Yes YouTube is a bless and a course. It's hard to find the real experts. But there are a lot of great craftsman sharing their knowledge, too. That's what I did. Stoped cutting every 1/2'' and added some cutting oil. It takes time but it works. No shortcuts needed. As you said, hear/feel what the machine tells you and then respond to it. My father comes in the workshop from time to time smiling about me. He told me to buy the parts laser cut to safe time and effort. But I wanted to make them myself to safe some money and learn new skills. I think I made the right decision. That's also on my to learn list. My grandfather was very talented carver and all the tools are still here. Unfortunately he passed away way to early and couldn't teache me.
  5. Hi Frosty, I watched several videos on the carbide saw blades to find out how others use those blades. In some videos they applied the downward pressure with weight plates attached to the saw. They did it to have constant and repeatable pressure to compare different blades. They used 20-30 lb to do that. I know a real craftsman won't do so but I like the approach to apply a constant pressure. I just need to find out how much weight to use to get the blade cutting without overloading it. I think this is a good option because I have to make quite long cuts and so I can let the saw make the work and I can focus on a straight cut and lubrication/cooling. What do you think about that?
  6. The new carbide blade arrived yesterday and today I gave it a try. It worked pretty good. Here's a picture of it: I think I had a false opinion on how fast those cuts are made. If you take your time you get a good result. I also switched between reciprocating saw and drill press to give the tools some time to cool down. In the workshop it was 95-100°F. There are still a lot of cuts to make and I will spend several hours with it. But I enjoy the time in the workshop and learn something new every session. Here are the parts that are already rough cut. It's the a side plate, the flat platten and two parts of the stand. Those still need to be cut/grinded/filed and drilled. The base plate is already finish. It's the bottom side of the plate. The corner holes are for rubber buffers, the inner holes are for mounting the stand.
  7. Thank you Frosty! Sometimes you don't see the obvious Just ordered some grinding and flapp disks for the 4 1/2'' angle grinder.
  8. Hi Frosty, me and my father are the same opinion. It's just our only option so far. So I ordered the carbide blade for the reciprocating saw after all. It's just 8€ so we'll try it and if it doesn't work it nothing to anger about. I'll keep you up to date with the building process. The pieces we cut today are just rough cuts and I will file them to the needed size. As soon as there is something to show I'll take some pictures.
  9. Today we made the first cuts but without the stand. The stand is ok for cutting brick or other construction stuff but not for this task. We are doing it slow and as safe as possible. Now I have some file work to do
  10. Hi Frosty, Thanks for your analysis. Maybe I put too much pressure on the angle grinder but not on purpose. The reciprocating saw try was surely wrong. It is not supposed to cut such thick steel plates and I tried it even tough. So clearly my fault. I will do the cuts with my father around. I don't want to risk my health but this is also not an extremely dangerous job to do if you do it right. After I watched several safety videos I checked on the dates on the cutting disks... Well now there is none left. Some of them were "made in West Germany" so 30+ years old. Fr some cuts I could use the hacksaw but not for all.
  11. I changed my mind after the first try with the reciprocating saw. It also has just 500W and I think a better blade would not make a big impact. Due to that I pulled out our big 9'' angle grinder (probably as old as I am) and ordered some metal cutting disks. It has 1400W and I think is powerful enough to get the job done. This tool is a beast and I have respect to use it. But one big advantage is that we have a stand for it. I can bolt that stand to our workbench and also clamp down the steel plates.
  12. Hi Thomas, the tracking can be adjusted in both directions. I will glue in a threaded rod to the star handle, the black ring will be clamped on the thread rod to fix the position. The joint eye also has a internal threat so when the handle will be turned the joint eye moves forwards or backwards. The pivot point of the tracking will use a shoulder bolt. As far as I knew this axis does not need regular adjustments. So once it is aligned properly I will tighten it down that the position is fixed. Yesterday I started cutting my plate steel and recognized quickly that I have underpowered tools. The base plate was a cut with ~12'' length and nearly killed my little 5'' angle grinder. It took a lot of time and the angle grinder got seriously hot. The next cuts I made an the vertikal band saw (designed for cutting wood but equipped with a metal cutting saw band) but the same here. It takes for ever to cut these thick steel plates. Today I will try to use my reciprocating saw with the stock blades. If this works decent I will order some good blades.
  13. Hi Thomas, I changed the handle to be pointing horizontal towards the left grinder side. So the hand position moves away from the belt.
  14. Hi folks, it's been a while since i posted the start of my first knife build half a year ago. Since then other projects crashed in and so I had to build a shed and a pool deck to please the family needs. The knife is still not done yet because I got really annoyed by my 3x20'' belt grinder. The belts I have in stock are for woodworking and wear out in seconds when i put some metal against them. And investing in proper belts for this machine wasn't an option. So I stopped working on the knife before I messed it up. I don't claim this to be my own design. I took as much as I could from other guys and tried to adopt it to my needs. I'm not a metal worker and I can't weld. Here are is the design as it should look like in the end. The grinder will be powered by a 3 HP, 2860 rpm, 3 phase motor that is just 1 year younger than me. I know it will have plenty of power and I have to be very careful with it but I got it cheap. The belt will be driven by a 3x8'' rubber coated drive wheel. Tracking wheel is a crowned 3''. The flat platten is based on the one of Brian from Houseworks but with a 4'' contact wheel on the bottom and a 2'' contact wheel on the top. The wilting work rest is also adopted from Brian. The tracking is a mixture of Brians design and the design of Beck's Armory. The belt tension is applied by a torsion spring like Jeremy Schmidt did it in his gen 1 grinder. The plate steel (12mm ~ 1/2'') arrived last week and the drawings are printed to be clued to the plate to start cutting. The tubes are 50x50x5 mm (~2x2x1/4''). I will do this build with the machines I've already own: a vertical band saw, angle grinder, drill press and files. I know it won't be a perfectly machined grinder, but it will be made by myself. So my question is: Does some of the experienced grinder users see any major problems that I have overlooked? Greetings from Germany, Tim
  15. Hi Yanni, thanks for your answer. I also didn't find a better explanation for those designs. I'm just starting my own build and I'm also doing a two slots/bay version.
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