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I Forge Iron


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  1. Hi Steve, your answer make sense but my question was something else. The Wilmont Quattro Grinder has 4 slots (where the tooling arms are pushed into) over each other. The Reeder ultimate grinder has 3 slots. So why 3 or 4 of them stacked? Just want to understand the design. They won't make this design without a good reason.
  2. The tubes were the attachments are positioned. Reeder calls them bays and does one with 3 bays. Wilmont has their Quattro with 4 arm setup. Can someone give an example where more than two of them are needed? I'm new to 2x72 belt grinders and don't have experience working with them. I know that this are very versatile tools and this is a reason I will build one for myself. So thanks for your tips.
  3. Hi there, what is the benefit of more than 2 receiver slots/bays on a 2x72? I saw designs with up to 4 slots/bays but never saw somebody using more than two slots at a time.
  4. Finished the sanding of knife #1 today. It's not perfect but ok. Next will be the scales and I'm looking forward on this. Also worked on knife #2 and became impatient... Hand filing the bevels take hours so I tried the 3x20 belt grinder again. Its not made for knifes but it removes metal faster than hand filing. And I learned that I have to work with a guide for the plunge lines. It takes just one moment and a crisp line is gone... Got an old 3 HP motor and I want to build a very basic 2x72 belt grinder. Nothing fancy just enough to speed up the bevel grinding.
  5. Hi, I have the first aid kit ready. The tempering is done and the blade reached straw colour. With the right oven mode the temperature was pretty accurate. Unfortunately the blade bend like a banana. I will try to correct it in the vice using bolts and if that doesn't work I ordered some metal clamps to try the re-bend using coins and angle iron in a tempering cycle. Also did some vegetable cutting to get a feeling of the knife profile. Due to the thick spine the knife won't be a perfect slicer. And without the scales it is a bit heavy towards the tip. Knife #2 I will file with
  6. Hi, the thermometer arrived and I put it in the oven to check the temperatures during Christmas cooking. All temperatures were about 5-10 K lower than the dialed temperature. I think I used a wrong operation mode when I tempered the blade. I don't know the Englisch expression for it but there is a fan running in the oven to move the air in the oven. Thought it would result in a more even heat distribution but it didn't. Next time I use another mode for the tempering. Also worked on knife #2 witch is made out of the left over part of the farriers rasp. But this brought me to hospital
  7. Hi Frazer, hi Thomas, Tank you for your replies. Yes i heard of of such primers but more for painting wood/concrete. I'm new to metal working. My only practical experience is a two week basic metal working class bevor studies. So please excuse if some questions are very basic.
  8. Still waiting for the thermometer but already thinking about the next steps. I want to try an etch with orange juice. I know the patina won't last forever but I want to make my own long term testing with normal kitchen use. The question is can I do the etch before I epoxy the scales? Or does the etching has a negative influence on the bonding of the epoxy?
  9. Just ordered an oven thermometer. Next tempering has to wait until it arrives. Thought about putting the blade between to iron pans?! They should work as a temperature buffer. Came on this idea through the obove mentioned tempering tongs.
  10. Do you have the knife still in use? Can you give a long time feedback on the coffee etching?
  11. Hi Thomas, Thank you for your recommendation. Yes, I will do a new hardening and tempering cycle with 175°C/350F. I understood Pnuts post that I should do the 2x60 min tempering with 1 day in between. I will put a BBQ thermometer in the oven the next time. I knew that ovens aren't that precise but I didn't expect deviation of 60-80 K. This is almost 50% off.
  12. Hi Pnut, If you recommend that I will try. I took my information on heat treating farriers rasps of this thread: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/35662-what-is-your-process-for-heat-treating-a-farriers-rasp/ Tim
  13. Hi, yesterday I did the heat treatment of the blade. I did not increased the edge to 1 mm because I would lose about 5 mm of blade hight. During hardening I realised that the thin material is also problematic because it not only heats up faster but also cools faster. It's not ideal but for knife #1 I can live with that. I heated to non magnetic and quenched in canola oil (60°C / 140 F). But the file test wasn't as expected. The file did leafe some scratches on the blade. But I'm not sure if it was just the burned oil on the blade. For tempering I aimed for 2 X 60 min at 2
  14. Hi Frazer, Thank you for sharing your experience. Yes if I would increase the edge to 2 mm a lot of the blade profile would be gone. So I will try it with 1 mm and try to heat up the blade slowly. For the next knife I will pay more attention to keeping the edge thick enough. Also I will buy larger material to make the blade around 50 mm / 2 inches high. For the scales I have some african padouk (barwood) with nice redish colour. Is handsanding to 220 grit fine enough before heat treat? I'm not going for a mirror finish.
  15. Hello, I'm currently making my first knife. For the stock I used an old farriers rasp. I first annealed the rasp and then quenched the tang and break it to see if it's worth using the material for a blade. It broke easily. So I will heat treat it like 1090/1095. here a picture to get the size of the knife (40x165 mm / 1.5 x 6.5 inch, 4,5mm/0,177 inch thick). The shape is inspired from the "Chunky Monkey" shape of YT Simple Little Life. I want to use the knife for cooking. The rough shape I did with an angle grinder and a 3x21 belt grinder. I did the bevels with a
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