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Levi Prince

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    Winnipeg, Manitoba

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  1. So I recently had to drill a lot of copper and brass and currently have a worktable covered in powders of both the metals. I was wondering if I might be able to put the powders and shavings in a steel canister and put them in the forge. I know you can do This and weld It together with steel powder, but I was just wondering if it would work with these metals. Could I just let it melt together in the canister? Would I have to forge it a bit? Also, if it works, would they just melt together and create a different alloy or would I get a pattern?
  2. Ferric Chloride solution diluted half and half.
  3. Hi, I know this isn't the right topic for this but I figured knife people would know alot about damascus. I just made a batch of cable damscus rings using EIPS Bright cable. I pulled them out of the etch after an hour and it looked great, neutralized it in baking soda solution and it still looked great. But then I went to dry it off and the pattern rubbed off on the towel. I tried re etching it and just letting it sit after the etch instead of drying it with a towel, and the pattern just faded away. Anyone encountered this before?
  4. Hi folks, Im building a new gas forge and trying out a ribbon burner because i've heard they're quieter and I've been getting some noise complaints from the neighbours:) It definitely is quieter but it's not quite heating up like my last forge. I used to be able to get up to welding heat in about 5 minutes but I don't seem to be able to get up to welding heat at all in this new one. This forge is about 100CU bigger than the last one. I've attached the same plumbing to the plenum that I had running my 3/4" forced air burner in my last forge. The ribbon burner is 6" x 3" with 14 holes and is fed
  5. I followed his plan and used a 1” to 3/4” reducing tee, with a 6” pipe nipple and a merchants coupling nozzle. I honestly don’t know what to do.
  6. Ok so I’ve made a small forge now, with Frosty’s t burners, an they work great outside the forge, but inside they sputter a lot and are very weak. Again, if I blow into the forge it gets much hotter, which leads me to believe it’s the same problem as before. This is really frustrating so if anybody has a straightforward answer I would appreciate it. I am just about out of money so I can’t build a whole new system. Would it fix the problem if I plugged one end of the t and attached a small blower at the other to increase the air getting in?
  7. Well I do love to scavenge! I already have some 20lb tanks, and the 100lb tanks I got full for free from a guy on kijiji (like craigslist but in canada). Currently all my high carbon steel is scavenged from car parts like bearings, leaf springs and coil springs. I guess I'll give the tee burners a go, my pressure regulator is good from 0-60 psi so I do have alot to work with there and I could probably use a ball valve for the gas volume to just adjust that to the set amount of air going in. Are there any actual plans for the frosty tee burner? because I'd hate to mess this up again.
  8. Yeah I guess...Anyhow if the 20lb will work, which burners should I make? I'd prefer to make them because they are quite expensive to buy, and I know plenty of people make great burners on their own. Wayne doesn't make the burners on his site, they are bought from companies.
  9. Ok....would it work to make a new forge out of a 20 pound propane tank? Line it with kaowool and refractory. I don't know if that would be closer to the right volume. I saw a video of a guy making one like that and it looked quite good, except he just had exposed kaowool, if I made that design obviously I would cover that with castable. If that would be the right volume, what should I do for burners, the design this guy uses in the video, or would a tee burner work better. The only problem with the tee burner is that you can't regulate the air, but maybe that doesn't matter as much as I think
  10. Thanks a lot for the info, I didn't know you could only heat so small an area. I really do want this to work without having to make an entirely new forge, so would it work better just to cut it in half? And here are pictures of my burners, so if they are salvageable please let me know, if not I'll make those tee burners if those will work a lot better. Im sorry if I sound like I'm ignoring your guys advice, it's just that I've spent a bit of money on this so far and I don't want that to be wasted, so if i can make my existing forge smaller and just remake the burners that would be best. Believ
  11. Well I don't need to price up the forge, Already built it haha. It's a 100lb propane tank lined with 2" of kaowool and half an inch of 2800 castable refractory (I can't buy kastolite or any of the good ones where I live, and the shipping is nuts). I would like to not have to start over from scratch, seeing as how I've spent a few hundred bucks on this forge already. I was looking at making swords and large axes so that was the reason for the size of the forge, but If I really don't need to make it that big, could I just make a refractory plug to put in the middle to "shorten the forge" when I
  12. I do have a drill press but it tends to wander quite a bit so some of my holes end up crooked. I also have a mig welder as well as most conventional tools. The forge is pretty big, 9” diameter by 35 and I’m running it off a 100lb tank. The forge is actually made out of a 100lb tank too. but if you want to show me some plans I could tell you whether it would work for me or not.
  13. Thanks for the info! Ill try to get pics tomorrow. Do you think there's any way I could fix this, or do I have to start over? Also, is there a specific design you think I should follow? It's a much bigger forge than any I've seen on other people's plans, so It would need to be a design that would work with multiple burners.
  14. Hi, I'm new to forging and just building my first propane forge. It's a big one- about 2500 cubic inches. I made venturi style burners (3 of them), figuring that would work. Problem is, outide the forge they work pretty great, but once installed the flame is very weak and often just oxidizing, even though I can control the amount of air going in. I'll post videos, but here is the info anyways. The burner construction is as follows. Straight from the tank there is a high pressure regulator with a hose that leads into 2 tees in order to split the assembly into 3 branches. At this point the pipe
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