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I Forge Iron

Levi Prince

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    Winnipeg, Manitoba

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  1. Levi Prince


    I have seen posts about a203e being good for damascus, but what I'm wondering about is if there is always a visible grain/banding when it's etched. I have seen several pictures of san mai blades with a203e cladding, and there is quite a beautiful and noticeable grain visible. Is this something that only occasionally happens in the odd piece? Is it a consequence of some part of the forging process? I'd like to hear from anyone who has experience with this steel, what your observations have been.
  2. Hello all, I have been using my homemade ribbon burner for many months now and it can get hot enough to melt steel if I want (not that I ever want that). I have been using a 5 peak hp shop vac as my blower and it's very loud, I'm looking to get a quieter one and saw the blacksmith blowers. How would these compare? I can find the cfm on my shop vac (115) but no indication of pressure/ inches WC. All I know is it practically flaps my cheeks if I put my face in front of it lol. Here is the link to my shop vac: link removed Just wondering because I don't want to have to do a ton of fiddling and redoing my burner design to work with a new blower, I'm very busy and simply can't spare the time for that. I'd rather have a loud forge that works over a quiet one that I spend weeks troubleshooting.
  3. I have some wrought coming in the mail and will soon be placing an order with admiral. I'm thinking of getting some of the a203e high nickel to try some decorative damascus. I've seen the a203e have visible grain similar to the more refined wrought, and while either metal will look great on its own, I'm wondering about pattern welding the two. I've seen etched wrought turn anywhere from light gray all the way to almost black, and I'm wondering if theres any way to control that to get a good contrast (like just etch time? etch medium?). I'm hoping for something with fairly good contrast (doesn't have to be crazy) and bold enough that you can see the grain in each of the separate metals still, I think it will look great. Also, is there anything bad to do with wrought as far as pattern manipulation? I'm hoping to do a twist pattern but I'm not sure if that would tear the WI. It's torn on me before when punching and drifting a hole in it so I'm curious.
  4. Hello, I'm from manitoba but I haven't been able to find any wrought iron here. I am doing a project where I will need to make several large overlays that I want to do in wrought iron, but the only place I can find that sells it in good quantities is in the UK and I can't find any locally. Would anyone here in ontario be able to sell me some wrought iron at a decent cost? I'd need larger pieces, anchor chain, wagon rim, etc...
  5. Hello all, a while back I made a knife with 52100 bearing steel and I got some pretty cool looking banding (which I know is supposed to not be good). BUT I have a project where I'll need several decorative overlays that I would like to make a little more visually appealing than just plain steel. I dont want something as striking as damascus but I saw the old picture of that knife I did and I thought it would do just the trick. I've heard kevin cashen supposedly has a post somehwere explaining how to do this but I havent found it. So can anyone tell me how to succesfully recreate this banding pattern in my steel? Is it entirely to do with the heat treat and how the carbides group or do you have to get lucky with your piece of steel?
  6. Yup! I don't much care if anyone beats it later, it's just fun to doing this. It's also going to be a project to improve my fabrication skills, lots and lots of pieces going into this, tons of welding, and tons of thinking going into putting this thing together. I would love if someone came along and beat it, it makes a fun competition. I'm just concerned with the type o steel I'm going to use to make a good edge for this monster.
  7. OK, so I'm making sort of a novelty project: world's heaviest thor's axe, Stormbreaker. This thing will weigh well over 100 pounds, probably closer to 130-150. I'm making it with a proper hardenable edge and striking face, just because why not, may as well make it functional in case I find someone really strong to wield it. The bevel angle on this is quite wide and obviously It's not going to be that sharp, the sheer force of this thing coming down would probably destroy any regular high carbon knife steel. Michael Cthulhu, who makes ridiculously large knives and swords like this on youtube, uses hardox AR steel for his blades. Just wondering if that would be the best option for this, as it's extremely tough and abrasion resistant. Hardox 600 can also reach a fairly high rockwell and has the same carbon content as 1045, which a lot of axes are made from. IO'm venturing into unknown territory and none of my know how on knife and sword steels will help me here.
  8. I am looking at making a forge press, but I am seeing totally different components from everyone's different presses. Some people say 5hp can get you 50tons, some say it can't even get 20. My question is, I can easily get a 5hp 3450rpm or 1750rpm motor locally, so if I paired that with a 16gpm pump, what size cylinder can I expect to push at a decent speed with that? I know the calculations, but I really just don't know what kind of speed I should be shooting for. I'm not picky about what kind of tonnage I get as long as it's more than 20. I can get a different size pump as well but 16 just seemed to be the most commonly used one with a 5hp motor. Also, I've seen most of the responses to these types of post just saying "it depends", which really isn't helpful, so if no one has a relatively straightforward answer I would prefer to just not read unhelpful ones. I know these things all depend on what components you pick, but I'm asking what I can expect to get with a 5hp motor and (probably) a 16gpm pump.
  9. So I just tried to make my first billet of damascus, and after only two heats the handle broke off. I had beveled the edges and welded it solid the whole way around to the billet, so I was pretty sure it would hold. Unfortunately it came apart on one side and peeled apart the layers it was still attached to, so my billet was ruined. Any tips to keep the handle on longer?
  10. Sorry, that should've said I've tried forge welding stainless to mild before and it didn't go so well. I can get consistently excellent welds on carbon or mild steel by itself though. I've heard all the stuff about stainless being super difficult, that is why I said I thought it would be suuper hard I've seen people stack and layer, then put a canister around. That is what I was thinking of doing with this one.
  11. Do I need the flux if I'm using a canister? And I've tried forge welding and mild before it wen't pretty bad. I thought stainless welded better to itself than to mild steel
  12. Ok cool, Do i need a different flux or is borax good? Although, I probably wont need a release agent if I use a mild steel square tube, I doubt it will weld to the stainless
  13. I'm looking a making my first stainless damascus, but I don't have a tig welder. I'm just wondering If it will still work to stick weld the can around it. Also, I've heard of many different ways of doing it, like putting cardboard in the can to burn out the oxygen, using a clay slurry in the can, wd40, air hole, etc.... For the air hole, (this is a stupid question, but I want to know the meaning behind it) is there a specific spot to put the air hole? Because i thought the whole point of can welding it was to prevent air from getting in. I also know you need to relieve pressure but I'm just wondering how those two can both work.
  14. I suppose I can just be the guinea pig, bite the bullet and order it. I'll give it a test and post the results in case there is anyone else wondering the same thing.
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