r smith

All washed out to sea I guess.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :D

Same complaint about the poor fit of the brass and also you need to debur or countersink the thong hole. looks good otherwise. smith

I would not want a taper surface to be hit with "flat" die, might be OK if the top die had a matching taper for good contact. Or two taper pieces that ramp off each other and stay parallel.

Thanks Ptree :)

I love being last on the job and have to take into account the mistakes of others so the final product looks nice :mellow: .

Old forklift are being scrapped at a high rate, if you can find someone who is doing that or even a dealer that replaces bent forks. Once damaged the need to be replaced- may be an OSHA thing?

"Patience grasshopper"

:D Thanks Glenn, I hope he gets some takers

Maybe you should make a new thread with a better title? Try something like "I am traveling in OZ and would like to meet fellow smiths" That way it is noticable to anyone scanning titles.

This is a good thread and I do not find it offensive at all. It makes the brain work to make sure to understand what is being said. smith

You did good there! :D r smith

Without seeing photo It is hard to say, but before a certain time maybe mid 1800's anvils did not have pritchel holes. I would bet if it is that old it would be wrought.

Good info on this subject here: http://blacksmith.org/forums/threads/2183-Steel-Designation-Myth-vs-Fact?p=16097#post16097 Follow the links there for more info smith out

It looks good, I am glad to see some of this kind of work again. I love the joinery :) One question though, why are the pickets going down the stairs not vertical? r smith

What kind of oil are you using in the oiler? My 2b had some kind of control issue long ago and it was due to not having thick enough oil to "seal" small gaps in the moving parts. Good luck smith out

Sorry to hear the hammer isnt working properly yet. Does this mean you are not moving out of your shop?

You have C and F mixed up. Zinc melts at 419 C / 787 F and boils at 907 C / 1664 F. You are correct that melting is ok just boiling is bad. Galvanize dip tanks are about 800 F . http://www.chemicale...lements/zn.html

Easily a $200 anvil, GOOD SCORE

You will be fine leaving the metal galvanized. The fire in your forge is contained in the drum and the heat being radiated through the drum is nowhere near enough to melt the galvanize coating. You could look up the melting point of galvanize and if you will have enough heat to melt it then be cautious.

Sometimes. I have heard that flat insulation is helpful only for about 4' from the edges, waste to put it out in the middle, this is with the footings insulated as well. If you are trying to get maximum thermal mass you also want to heat some of the dirt below the slab. The heat can only go back up if contained on the sides. Takes longer to heat it up initially but it also takes a long time to cool down. I will try to capture some heat from my forge exhaust to help keep the slab warm. Also to heat my slab will be solar panels and a wood stove with a boiler unit. You need to read the info on the link I sent, there are others as well with good info on websites but I think that one is best/most info. Here it is again: http://www.radiantdesigninstitute.com/index.html

To insulate the slab on my existing house I had to dig a trench around the house 22" deep to expose the outside of the footing and use closed cell spray foam and blueboard where the forms were, where the blueboard came out of the ground is galv metal to protect it. Then backfill. There were other things going in some of the trench as well- underground downspout pipes, conduits for electrical, and water pipes. In you case I would just heat the new slab but insulate the old one as well. Much easier to insulate when poring concrete than after. The blueboard is one side of the form.

I dont have to worry about heaving or snow in socal. B) I would not think it a problem if the slab is always warm. Do you get permafrost layer in the winter? If so I think your slab insulation needs to go down to it or below it. I have heard of people in snow country who did not insulate the outside of their slab and the snow would melt within 6 feet of the house- not the most efficient use of heat. :o The link I posted to is in Montana- he is very knowledgeable about cold weather radiant. Lots of info on his site. smith

It sound like you should put heating tubes in your slab. The cost of the tubing is so cheap to do now compared to later and the head is much better. I too am planning a 2200 sq ft shop and will have the heating tubes in the dirt under the slab. More thermal mass and not much chance of damaging the tubes if I drill anchors to mount equipment etc... I used these guys to help design the first system I did: http://www.radiantdesigninstitute.com/index.html r smith

I remember Grant said in a post some years back that the hammer in this video was scrapped long ago. I was bummed at the time I read that. :(