r smith

No more than $10 each

You better check your math on that. Here heavy steel (1/4"+) is about $200/ton so since a ton is 2000 lbs that make $0.10/lb (10 cents) and if his anvil weighs 186 lbs then scrap value is about $18.60. :( If the scrap value is really as high as you say it is I will load every tool and bit of metal I own and be there in the morning. At $3760.00/ton I will be able to retire and live the rest of my life with that kind of money. :D (2000/50=40, 40x94=3760) Please let us know where to go to cash in and get rich ;) smith out

Just make sure to double/triple check which way the taper goes to be sure to not drive it in deeper and split the ram. Good luck.

Think of the grit in your shop and then make up a simple cover to keep it out

Those things are bucks up in good shape

You will set the anvil on the wood so the wood does not float up in the wet crete? I still might bolt the thing down. Looks good. smith

You should be able to get two of those and a ginsu knife for each one as well, but wait order toay and get another ginsu and free shipping ... only untill 3:00 today. order now

All my vices have 3/16" or 1/4" thick springs, 1/8" is probably to thin for all but the smallest vices.

Are you going to have a way to grab the wood block and pull hard on it? I would give it a couple of "cradles" made of 1/4x3 flat with a hole in each end that you could attach to in the future. Having slightly tapered sides will make the difference of coming out or not. smith

Good stuff,Eh ;)

It is hard for me to read the small print on my screen but I read fig.605 on pg 548 as specifically stating "timbers on end" and is drawn accordingly and also the drawings in figs 602 and 604 seem to show the same grain orientation. fig 603 shows timbers laid flat but the timbers are not setting on concrete, they go all the way through to the ground as a "separate" unit. It is an awesome book, I love it. Thanks for posting it. smith

I almost responded by saying this but it got to complicated to figure out how deep in the earth the molten core is and how much mass the cone shaped area that would help your anvil ratio...... I do not think the entire earth counts though. Only the solid part under the anvil. :P

The centaur swage blocks A&B sound like what you are looking for. Dishes and large radiuses .

seems a bit on the high side of the going rate, but in its defence it does not look abused and has crisp edges. I would jump on it for 200-300 not for 600 unless you NEEDED it NOW

I would try to use the buffalo, I have one like your yellow one and it is a bit of a hassle to make sure you are turning the crank in the proper direction. The style like your buffalo does not matter which way it turns. Nice score by the way.

3 largest square holes 7/8", 1", 1 1/4". The 1 1/4 is about 1/32" over size, the other two are pretty close. My blocks are practically new.

I have both A and B from centaur, I will measure and get back to you. I was thinking of selling them.

Dual shield is NOT self shielding flux core wire that you run gas with. It is special wire that HAS to have proper shielding gas.

You could pre heat the steel pretty hot before welding and that will help you some but you really need some wire that is 1/16" or .072" to do a good job on that. Dual shield is good choice for this. Many different types of dual shield wire available. You might try a practice piece if you have a good way to heat it. smith out

I want to make a sword but do not know how to cut metal?? :o

That would have been a good add to cut and paste here.....

Heat the wax mix and dunk in a warm part- repete 100 times :o

I am sure the stuff I linked to will clean it up nice. Have you had a chance to look into it at all? I have seen it work on some transmission gears that looked almost as bad as yours and they looked almost new when done. Soaks into small gaps like the shaft to clean that part also. No acid so the metal all stays, just the rust goes.

1-1-1

I am glad to hear your doing better, good luck moving forward with any new plan.