Hayden H

Wow, we had a talk about something along these lines today in ag after a kids truck rolled into the wood shops brick wall.... Glad he didn't have a Ranch Hand bumper, there'da been no wall left

Yeah, the EERF is one I'm trying to talk my teacher into cutting out of the peice of plate steel. We talked about which would be cheaper to build and he said the no-weld because its build completely from stuff you have around, and then you can make more with the plans or make parts quickly. (He said make more with a sly smile, which means if I build one, there'll be atleast 3 in the works)

I'm here to learn. I'm gonna take a peice of 1/2 inch plate I have laying around the shop to the table and gopefully get parts cut to make a small working model. If not I lost nothing in a free peice of plate steel

I'm leaning towards the grinder in a box. I know for sure if I buy it I'll have atleast $500 into it. I can get wheels made at cost of materials up to 14 inches. I figure a Grizzly hollow grinding wheel, ($68), 3 3 inch wheels ($150 if I buy em online), and other various parts.

I'm looking to build a belt grinder. The three above are the ones I can get plans for. I personally like the simplicity of the No Weld, but the alterability of the Grinder In a Box, the KMG kinda scares me a bit with all the drilling and tapping. I'm making my Christmas list and I put belt grinder plans on it. SO I'm gonna have one of these built before January 15 of Next year. KMG, Grinder In a Box, No Weld Grinder. Give me your un-biased opinion on which of the these is the best for the buck. I don't have the money to drop for a Bader, or Burr-King either so any store bought model is out of the question.

I get scraps and have bought 3 half hides (Hurt my $ a bit). I have 1/4 inch thick saddle leather as a spacer for larger blades, up until now, I've never had to make a fitted sheath. I made the sheath a little under sized, riveted it as tightly as I could, dampened the leather, jammed the knife in, and put the blade portion up until the gaurd inbetween two 5 pound granite corner stones I had laying around. I oiled the knife lightly with gun oil, didn't soak into the sheath surprisingly. While the sheath was wet I got a polished deer horn tip (Its amazing the things you find in a tool box) and used it as a groover/rounder to make the leather fit closer to the blade. Got up this morning pulled the blade out, and its a good fit. I'm keeping this knfie for myself so it doesn't have to be pretty, just functional

Rivet/eyelet/grommet/brad setter. Leather shop in town has one in his antique leather collection. His is a Little Giant brand as well.

I got tired of one of my buddies excuses on making my knife sheaths. I got a few peices of leather trimmed and stitched together. How do I get it to fit tighter to the blade? Dampen the leather, and clamp it around the blade? Or dampen it, and dry it successively until its the right fit?

I cut down a very small blue spruce tree (bush?) that was growing in my yard. I cut it in two and the wood was a beautiful pink and tan layered pattern. (Smelled great to!). To bad I can't find another one, I'd like some of it to experiment with

I have yet to see the price of a MAnkel, but I'm leaning ever more to a Diamondback standard forge, or the metalworker model

I dont' want to toil with building one at the moment. I may do some forge welding, I like the Mankel and Diamonback forges, but it just depends on what $ I have available. The Mankels expandable indefinetly, but the Diamondbacks easier to refit

I'm looking to buy a propane forge to get around the burn-ban fire restrictions. Whats a good brand? I like the Diamondback Ironworks forge, its also reasonably priced. I'll being doing knife and spur making as well as any other odd thing I want to forge on. So, what'd be a good brand, and at a reasonable cost?

Tomorrow morning all the break cleaners going to the trash. I remember being four years old and in the hospital from an allergic reaction, then having a severe reaction to the medicine that was supposed to make me get better. I don't like doctors, nor do I care for needles, or being couped up in a machine and remaining perfectly still for any amount of time. I'll stick with my PB Blaster and a good sized hammer.

I'll try heat tomorrow evening after it gets a good soaking. I took the spacers off the main babbott shaft cleaned, brake cleanered, re-cleaned, then sprayed it down with a heavy coating of PB Lubricating oil. I have 1 1/2 quarts of the acetone transmission fluid mix. I put a little on a file and hit it on another file to see the ease of ignition.... Lets say I won't be doing it again over the trash can. I've gotta either get new gears made, or weld/braze a row onto the teeth area then file to suit. I'd kill to have a hydraulic press at the moment. So much stuff to be pushed and pressed, and all I can do is hammer, hammer, hammer. If I can get access to a press, would it be possible to push the parts apart? I'll probably need to get another mount to mount the assembly to the frame made. (I forsee a project to keep me busy for 3 days in Ag. Class. Ge tthe appropriate size of tubing, weld it to a peice of pipe to get the correct angle for mounting on the frame, and build up the tail end and drill and tap the far ear input.)

I found a recipe on here for 1:1 ratio of automatic transmission fluid to acetone as a rust remover and loosener. Mud daubers built a hotel inside the crank housing making it packed with super fine cleche particulate. I'm gonna take the gears to the machinest and see if he can make a pair or repair them.

The lands only truely protected by God and a gun

I believe those are taps. They're either for using with a wrench for maybe threading a plug or something on a tank of some kind. Or they could be intended to fit in the hardy-hole of the anvil, or clamped in a vice.

6 hours and half a can of PB Blaster. I think I'm gonna farbicate a new adjustment system out of whats their until I get a chance to go the college shop. Maybe get an old ratchet and weld it to a peice of plate to act as a gear?

Alrighty so I got it for $25 bucks. I'm dissassembling it, and I ran into a problem. How in the world do I get the stupid gears apart that adjust the table height? They won't turn any at all. I'm highly tempted to take it to a machinest buddy and have him farbicate me a whole new assembly using the original threaded rod. (Which is in eccelent shape. I think it was adjusted to one height and never changed, theres no wear to be found on the support column.) I've taken every screw out of it that I can find, and soaked it in parts cleaner to see if its just glued together with old oil and grease to no avail.

I'm not admitting to anything here, but on some large staple guns you can shoot pennys, punch blanks, all kinds of stuff. This is what that reminds me of, really, really high speed impact into a hard surface (Like a steel plate) can have that effect. But it is very hard to do, as well as dangerous. They did it on Mythbusters tha way

It isn't the one in the picture, That was a picture from google. THe one I found is basically the drill press, an ancient maytag motor. none of the added stuff. Just the crank to go down, and thats it. I just need a bigger drill press to work around instead of my little tiny tabletop one

If its a mantel that stick out you could make a rig that goes from one end to the other and catches onto the base and uses leverage to hold it on

I wen to check out the stuff on the block tomorrow night. (Up for auction) Their happened to be a rather large drill press. Turns out to be a Cannedy Otto drill press. Looks like a camelback, but doesn't have all the extra gee-gaws attatched to it. Just a huge drill press with a 3 barrel (speed/pulleysystem). I found one thing wrong with it, and that was the mount that holds the table crank onto the main shaft isbrazed back together. THe braze is broken but the part still should move freely if it were degreased. What could she be worth? No picture of it. Looks sort of like this one without the 6 speed pulley setup. The one I found is a 3 speed. How much could she be worth?

I have a vice that was in a fire, the jaws didn't line up straight. Until it had a rosebud set to it, then a peice of flat strap inbetween the jaws so they're parallel. Spark test the metal. Long splintery sparks generally mean carbon steel, wroughts not alot of sparks. It varies, but either way its a vice

I figured I'd just talk to my teacher and pillage the scrap trailer and make it free-handing with a plasma torch then weld it together