Hayden H

Could someone look up Fulton Anvils in Anvils In America please. I have one, just don't know much about it

Machinery repair maybe?

Bought 10 ogee (?) bits today and 10 short lefty drill bits for $1 at a junk shop, a bar light to hang on my tool chest top, abd 2 aimable lights to aim at my workspace, and around 30 micro wrenches. (All but one USA, commonly called carburetor wrenches)

I don't usually tap anything new. I just re-tap holes so bolts fit. Or size-up the holes. I use dies all the time on odd things I've knocked out with a pin punch and marred threads.

I think I'm gonna build a file and drill bit holder to wall mount all of them to ahve easy access. Got around 150 files now, and un-countable drill bits

The tap wrenches already paid for themselves. The Snap On lefty drill bits may end up traded for a few odds and ends

Or water. Steam burns aren't fun. I have had an unknown volatile substance flash of gloves before while grinding., I had a mild heart attack trying to get them off

They're kinda already oil saturated. My grinding gloves (have a pair dedicated to grinding) are soaked in 10W 30, transfer heat real fast. Time they get retired

How about trashed leather glove fingers? (Had to move around my shop to make room for it all. Found 9 odd gloves)

To bad I went back and bought all the drill bits to go with the taps... Sad day... But seriously, I bought 150-300 drill bits from 3/8+ for $10. I ended up with 3 tool boxes, drill bits, tap and dies, grinder, bit sharpener with the grinder, C clamps, and 2 sets of Snap On lefty drill bits. I think the taps are HC and theres a few that may be carbide or something. Make a sound about like a silver coin on a granite table. Ching, ching, ching... Man I think I oughta be an investor

Me and my mentor together bought out almost the whole shop. I bought all the stuff I needed to ease my assembly and disassembly needs, breaker bars (Craftsman), indexible socket heads of all sizes, speed-bars, and then I found the taps and dies, at $15 I couldn't say no. (Last time I bought a die it was $18, I used a Gear Wrench ratchet as the wrench)

Bought 40 taps and around 150 dies at a garage sale today with 2 Snap On Tap Wrenchs, and 1 other M.I.A. I figure if all else for $15 the box they're sitting ins worth it. How do I tell if the taps and dies are any good, other than use them?

Also an odd wooden box (small but will hold my micro knife kit), and some random clamps of all kinds

Went to a garage sale with my grandma. (Sounds like a bad idea huh?). The man happened to be selling more mechanic tools than I've ever seen to this point in my life. Matco, Snap On, Plumb, you name it Made In America. CHEAP!!! But, alas I didn't have any $100's to offer on the roll-around. But I did however get 30+ years accumulation of files, a belt-driven bench grinder, drill bit sharpener (mounts next to grinder), Kennedy top box (smallish one), a cigar box FULL of taps and dies, and an odd lot of wire wheels. for $50!! I'm going back tomorrow to make an offer on the whole shabang! I want the medium size roll-around that matches the top box. It's replace the peice harbor freight one I bought a few years ago for $40. If I get it, I'll sell the chinese one and replace it with American Metal

I tried it against the 2 by 4 that my little bench vise is attatched to, it stayed decently. The peice kinda looked like a mini-hatcher head. I couldn't resist making it look "hatchet-ish". It held up decently, now just to find a few wider peices to toy with

Alright... And I'm gonna try the beer can thing... With a Dr. Pepper can of course

I've gotten a few plow edges in as a freebie to see if I can make knives with it. I can sharpen it straight out of the field sharp enough to shave arm hair. I've already ground a blade. (I know blackmsithing grinding a knife is sacrilige, I just didn't wanna run the risk of trying to forge something that thin into something thinner). I'm 95% sure they're either John Deere or Case brand. What should I quench and temper them at? OR just cut one into sample peices and oil quench one, water quench one, and let one normalize. Then temper all ar 500 for an hour and see what happens.

I'd sell the repaired ones to the local pumpers and farmers. Some tasks just can't be accomplished with a standard bench vise

True... I think to date I've spent $16 on vises and have 5 vises. And next month plan to win a monstrosity at auction, along with buying out a collectors pallet o' vises. (Theirs 2 I want the others would be add-ons, 2 wagon tongue vises, and another nameless small vise.) I'm thinking of possible cutting the damaged part of the screw box off and making a press out of the other part. The threads are in terrific shape, but the box was either over torqued or who knows what but the end of the screw box in split 3/4 inch back

I've aquired a few vises lately. All but one of them had a good screw box in them, if I transplant a good screw box from a vice that was run-over with a dozer to the vice that aligns perfectly with a bad screw box, will it hurt the value of the tranplantee or the other vice? The one thats getting the screw box is an Indian Chief (still even Red if that was the original color). The vise that'll be the donor is pretty thrashed, but the screw box is in excellent shape, but is just a hair to small for the Indian Chief. It's going to be my main vice because the jaws line up perfectly if that means anything.

<p style="margin-left: 40px">Added an Indian Chief 4 inch vise and another &quot;U.S.A.&quot; 2 3/4 inch swivel base and a box of hammer heads for $20. Vice is void of a mounting bracket or spring. (Easy smeasy fix and the jaws line up!!!)</p>

Could you put a milling table in the post hole? That'd an indestructible milling machine

As a beginning knife maker I've done it both ways. I've ground blades on 1 by 30 harbor freight sander, hand filed (pain to do but it make you understand angles and width), and forged. I'd much rather forge a blade to rough shape and grind it down to its final shape. Then hand file from a peice of bar stock. The trick to polishing a blade if its ground (this is what works for me) is get 220 grit metal sand paper and hand sand the blade length-wise until all the scratches form grinding are out then get on the buffer with white craftsman brand polish (It aint the best but its what I have and what I'll use until I run out) to a shine. It takes a while to sand the blade the way it needs to be, but I like shiny objects so its worth it. And be safe using the buffer, flying sharp-pointy objects at 1750 rpms isn't fun to dodge

I have the exact same thing. Its just missing the fine-increment down feed lever thing. Paid $45 for it. Its to big for my use and I'm thining about scrapping it or trading it to another maker for a pile of old tools