Hayden H

I agree with Matt. Yeah yeah a "Lifetime Warranty" (If its a manufacturing defect, not from use)

As the title above says I have either a Champion or Buffalo forge table without a firepot, its got the holes for a pump-crank blower. I have no need or desire of finding, or manufacturing a crank blower. Its a true forge table 30 some odd long and about 2 1/2 feet wide with the hole for a circular fire pot. Cast iron weighs close to 90 lbs has a raised lip with 6 bolt holes to mount the firepot. If I fabbed a firepot out of scrap, quarter or 3/16ths plate would it be substantial enough for a firepot?

So like a hair crack next to the sow block wedge area isn't really a problem? I figured you'd have to braze or weld a new peice in. Learn something new everyday around here

Cotton or leather means decently spark resistent. Most synthetics nelt and fray rather easily.

What I think I saw was a straight frame nothing more. If say theirs a hair-line crack in the frame next to the sow-block wedge slot, does it affect the operation at all? Can it be fixed. From what I've read that meant the wedges were put in with extreme force, and is somewhat common on Little Giants.

Can you fix a small crack in the frame right their? (Where the wedge goes into the slot to wedge the sow block into place.) I talked to a machinest and he said he can fix it, but it'd cost almost as much as it'd be to find another hammer

So what kind of cracks are the worst? Like one where the sow block wedges enter the frame? Or like a major crack on the upright of the frame?

Like $1,250 if its good? And can you fix a cracked frame? I've done some reading lately and I read somewhere that you can fix a small crack, but its really, really expensive.

Whats just the frame for a Little Giant 50 New Style worth? I saw one, well I think it was one. What might it be worth in conditions from A to C? A good no cracks, C would be scapped.

So a Metabo cut-off can be used to grind, not just cut? All I've ever used one for was to cut something square with a box of pricy cutoff wheels. And I'll never own a ridgid hand grinder as long as I live. The shop owner bought 3 on August 29th, one quit (while I was using it) a week ago, one makes a very strange whiring noise, the other has had no ill effects, well not yet atleast. They're used all the time in the shop by people that don't exactly know how to operate a grinder. (Seems pretty sraight forward until they put something on backwards, or take a flap-wheel to a mobile object and make projectiles out of both.) They're used at absolute max for 4 hours a day, and never continuously.

I unlike most of my classmates don't buy holy jeans. I'd much rather buy a pair of nice jeans wear them maybe 20 times then re-sell them to one of them for the original price of un-holy jeans that have been trashed from wear

Whats a good brand of hand grinder? Mine quit today Whats a good brand of wheels to use? My personal favorite brand of finish wheels are standard Dewalt wheels in the appropriet grit. I LOVE Red-Line abrasive discs. Carbide encrusted awesomeness is the only way to put it. And I use the cheapo harbor freight cutoff discs. Metabos on the list when my funds go back up.

As the topic states I set my jeans on fire. I was using the shops plasma cutter on a small peice. I put it close to the edge so I could steady my hand on my leg. It was going good then my leg started to get hot, I thought nothing of it. Until my friend stated I was on fire. I kinda was like, "What? OH XXXX!!" So I learned my lesson of don't lean on the table, and wear the apron I was given for that specific purpose.

Did Trenton make post vices to? A vice I cleaned had a crest like that but I couldn't make out the lettering

How much might you want for it?

Old files are an excellent choice if your a beginner. They're relatively easy to find, and with enough patience they can take a pretty good shine.

I almost had a fit today. I went to a scrap yard with one of my mentors. Their was one of everything there. Whether working or not. I'm gonna go back and talk to the big man in charge and see if theirs any blacksmithing stuff. After all he did buy out industrial warehouses. He's got everything from crane hooks to a 8 foot diamter pot-belly stove to heat his enormous shop. I think I may have found my heaven

THAT KITS EXPENSIVE!!!! I think I'll talk to a few buddies and get one from one industrial scrap piles for nill to nothing. Some of the things those people throw away...

Window weights, trott line weights, shot put, cannon ball, chain flail wights... So many kinds of weights to be had

So... Its a needle scaler with a hardened steel pin in it, instead of the needles?

... Can't you in effect use anything steel or iron to make a specified tool(s)? Its all forgable some harder than others to forge, others harden harder. The best thing thats easy to find for me are RR spikes, old files (usually by the bucket), the occasional 2-man saw at auction for knife steel, old fashion sheep sheers, sucker rod drops from a p.i.c. (partner in crime, aka another finder), and various other tool parts, and tractor axle.

So it'd be good steel to use, and even use the base as a steady mount fuller or make a few smaller vice tools.

YOU LUCKY DOG!! Those are sweet man!

If I plasma cut, or bad saw the main peice off the track base, can rail road track make a decent hammer? I got a peice that about 8 inches long, and its already cut a good ways into the support column thing. So I figured I'd cut the top part off, make a hammer outa that, then use the base, and upright to make a cut off, or mini bick tool. Is it good steel to forge with? or will I be wasting my time?

I'll be on the lookout for one, I have an idea where their may be a few, but I gotta catch the landowner so we can go run around on the land