Hayden H

Cash is king. Show up with a fist full of $100's and a peice fo your best work in your back pocket. If you see the value in the peice make an offer and hand him the peice. I have yet to do this with machinery but I've done it with hand tools, and watched it done on $1,000's in hay

Best I've used are Dewalt finishing discs and the best rock is I think a Red Diamond or sometthing they're red in color unmistakable. Last forever

PB Blaster'd it. It only turns one way, is that due to the bottom worm shaft being loose?

Or the local artillery vet, who I happened to have as a neighbor. He'll probably take it to the sheriff and destroy it, if they destroy it, I wanna watch it go boom

Its a Sears and Roebuck 103.2428 I think. It looks exactly like a King Seely with a aluminum tan painted housing. Needs tires, other than that she runs like a sewing machine

I've got a cannon ball, buts its 128mm artillery ball or maybe some type of bearing with the o.d. stamped on it, and it rattles alot when you hold it. I worry if I hit it with a hammer it may decide to explode.

THATS GENIUS!!!! I'll give it a try after letting it sit in penetrant and trying the ease out again.

I've got the Snap On lefty bit set and a few other odd sizes. I used a corded Makita to drill the out. I may just end up boring them out entirely and re-tapping the holes as needed

Its soaking in penetrant for the weekend. If that doesn't work, high heat'll be next, and after that brute force.

I've tried 3 times un successfully to use Ease-Outs to remove bolts out of vise gibs. I popped my right thumb out of place trying to turn the blasted tap wrench. Theres right around 1/16 of metal left between the drilled bolt holes and the holes they're threaded into. Should I jsut completely drill them out? They're set into cast steel with a cast iron wedge, so over drilling to deep is gonna be pretty hard to do. If all else I'll just over drill and re-tap the screws. I think they're metric to begin with and all I use is SAE

Champion 400, siezed Finnish vise, and a pile of old micrometers and other measuring tools, $25. (Traded for some scrap)

Looks liek some kind of oil field cap. Are the three angles completly welded to it?

I'll have to go get some more penetrating oil. I can't seem to find my PB Blaster or WD40. Its soaking in used filtered 10w 30 at the moment. I'll flush all that oil out, then put bar and chain oil in

It only turns clock wise, I think the worm shaft is loose

Is the Cham[ion 400 supposed to be a mulyi-directional crank blower? I picked one up the other day on a trade, and it was seized, and nothing'd come off. Today I got all the oil ports off, and had to drill-out one of the bolts on the top gear box cover, (yes I know penetrating oil didn't work) I even tried a hammer impact with a flat blade end. (Sheared the vintage Snap On blade off). Upon closer inspection of the internals. ITS MINT (all but the gear box cover bolt)!!! Stands perfect, but its difficult to turn one way, and it won't turn at all the other way. I'm thinking it may have something to do with the worm-drive shaft being loose. Because when I look down into the blower and turn the crank, it appears to slip 1/16th forward.

I've got the Kohlswa or my Fulton, (both have their advantages and dis-advantages). I may just keep my anvils and sell my extra forge table (round firepot type for pump-type blower, without a firepot or blower, so no use to me), and the Champion 400 blower at auction Saturday, set the reserve of both at $300, and let it fly. (I've got around $85 in both total)

I've got a Kohlswa 75 in near mint condition. What'd be a good asking price? Anvils in my area sell for $350+ in B- shape this things an A+ They still make them and if my memory serves me right a new ones close to a grand?

Thats fricken awesome.... I'm gonna have to find a welder

I don't know if it actually makes them sharper, but when I bought a bunch of files at a garage sale awhile back. It ran them over a stiff wire wheel with the wheel spinnign over the teeth. Made the bigger files feel sharper to me

Don't forget the file/rasp spurs. http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/9509-rasp-spurs/ I borrowed this from another thread on here

Yeahp, got an indented bottom, and a long narrow face and long fat horn (If memory serves me right with a number 2 on the right foot under the horn). Its top heavy in my opinion, but hey. I didn't design it.

He offered me $400 for it. I thought about taking it. But I needed it at the time, and it got a bigger face than my Kohlswa

One of the guys at the auction when I bought it said some were made by Hay-Budden

Its got a steel top plate with a decent ring. Its long with a thicker horn. Kinda odd shaped in my opinion. Like an un-modern, modern farriers anvil