Hayden H

Hard drive magnets are my go to for odd ball slivers and kerf that get embedded. The little hard drive magnets when stuck to plate steel cannot be removed without breaking the magnet first, work wonders on anything stuck to your skin. Used em to get metal out of my eye a few times

A good fine cutting knife with a smallish blade (3 to 4 inches), for sure a large Santoku style knife for chopping/dicing, and a variable for a fillet knife for a cook in fine work or a large butcher type knife with a thicker back to chop thick cuts. My .02 cents

Next time take a flag and some duct tape. Claim it as "Scraplandia"

I think truly swords started out as multiple peices of iron wootz(?) forged together into what could be called damascus. They forged, and folded it together to get the carbon content evenly spread throughout the peice of steel. Atleast thats what I gathered from my metallurgical/knife books. I think what I typed is actually a semi-quote from Wayne Goddard This is what I understood, I am probably somewhat right, but for the most part wrong.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9CSu62rZwM&playnext=1&list=PL5C794843F35DD5FA&feature=results_video if you could forge the blade, and then do this to your handle with it thick enough to file into an ergonomic shape. It'd be insane

I know what the second thing was used for, but not what its name is. They were used during WWI to alert the allied troops of incoming posion gas. I think the second things some type of minnow or small insect trap. Possible bow weavel. I think the bottom tray like assembly is either for some type of photgraphic transfer, or possibly cheese making. I do not know anything nor do I have an idea of what the first and last picture are. The things star/rowel/4 point turns and clicks into place.

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Sounds like it'd fit right in with my other conversation peices on my shelf.. That needs to be replaced badly

Thats what I was thinking. Some type of chain jig or something along those lines. I'm probably gonna take a firepot (cracked beyond usability), a small blower up to the auction house, and maybe an anvil to sale as each, then a set to get my maximum profit

If I remember corectly the tacks are 1 1/8 apart. I think it might be part of some type of stamping assembly maybe, but as far as I know John Deere never produced an anvil other than a London pattern and scythe pattern

left bott

Yeahp, made the tang the entire length of the file to the tip of tail

I had already ground the broken peice down to braze/weld another peice to. Upon attempting to get the peined peice out, I observed what looked like the steel had been twisted. Took it out their was a visible seperation of the tang like it had been stamped incorrectly. The grain looked like a peice of stock that had been twisted while hot around onto itself and not fused

Its easily filable. From the grain where it broke and the method that it broke in I think it might have been a flaw in the steel. It may have been too soft to. It did flex the tang a tad. (enough to make it really hard to get out of the handle)

I had the antire length of the stick tang tempered to gunmetal

Very possible. Just means I can fire up the forge and re-harden a few blades while that ones annealing. 540 for 2 hours, then the back draw

I have put in around 8 hours of time into the blade, forged it to shape and blade edge close, then filed it, then filed somemore, then sanded from 60 to 220. Heated to non-magnetic, oil quenched in warm motor oil. Heat treated at 375 for 3 1/2 hours, then soft-back drawed the back edge to a gun-metal (full color run), making the blade look awesome with the heat treat color, and my back draw colors. Had my elk taper drilled, guard and butt filed to hammer-fit. Had it all to fit togther seamlessly. Went to pein on the butt peice, got 2 measly strikes with a 3 ounce pein, and the tang sheared around 3/4 of an inch from the end. Really small grain, had the same grain as a peice just like it had been over-flexed back-and-forth multiple times until the bend snapped. Any help on why it broke other than "its a file"? I've worked with a few files like this before (exact same size, shape) and never had a break, could it have just been flawed steel?

I got my 2 burner knifemaker a week ago, had the same problem. Heres what I did to get it to work. 1. Turn the bottle off 2. Bleed the line to the forge 3. Zero your regulator (easier to do with gas on, just don't have forge lit makes the flame burn into flares) 4. Be sure your needle valve it completely close 5. Turn your bottle back on 6. Turn regulator to about 4 to 5 psi. 7. Crack needle valve unitl you haer gas whispering. 8. Light at the top of the burner like the manual says. 9. Open needle valve fully until its roaring. 10. Adjust the regulator up or down unitl you get it stable. This is how I got MY forge to work. It MAY OR MAY NOT WORK for you. Just adding emphasis to that, its how I got mine to work properly, if that works so be it, if not call Dennis.

Let me say, I LOVE MY FORGE!!! Its AWESOME!! I'd recomend it to anyone! It took less time for it to get up to temperature than it would take me to get my coal forge going decently!

Japanese bladesmiths have used tail-less and hornless anvils for centuries and made some awesome stuff. Make a saddle like peice to sit on the anvil face and weld a good peice of 1 inch thick wall square tubing to it to make a hardy

How long did it take to ship?

I'm currently waiting on a response from Dennis. I ordered it online using debit Monday the 15th, got my digital receipt that the amount was debited from my account 2 minutes after I finished the order process. But no response from Dennis, kinda worried , but not really. Just anxious to get something done. I've got propane, a bigger (Peter Wright 100lber) anvil. Face is in awesome condition other than some genius knocked off an adge. (Looks like someone tried to use the edge as a chisel and took off a sizable length) Its gonna replace my 75 Fulton and be across from my 75 Kohlswa. Speaking of what kind of TIG rod should I use to build up the chipped edge? Its to deep to be radiused, but the area between edges is still larger than my other anvil faces and with a bigger hardy (FUN!)

What should I do while I wait for a response from Dennis and the arrival of my forge?

Don't hit it with a hammer directly, use a peice of wood as a buffer between your hammer and the housing. And they're on their pretty good. (Took me 10 minutes hitting it decently with a 3 pound hammer to dislodge mines cover)