Hayden H

What type of oil should I use on my L.G.? What about the motor that runs it? It has 2 greas/oil cups. (It's the original motor from 43) Use bar and chain oil due to low detergent, or standard 35-30?

So theres really no worry with pressure washing an L.G.? Just cover the oild ports, and the grease zerk?

I called the old man, that had it prior to me, and he said it is in fact carbide welding rod.(What he knows as carbide, and what my mentor knows as carbide are the same thing, hes where I got carbide from, and he called the rods I welded onto a post-hole digger edge carbide, same semi gloss weld that the rods I was told as carbide left on the edge of the digger blade.) He said it was fixed by his dad years ago with carbide rods (hard face rods I think) that they had on hand. It came out of an old oil field and welding shop, he said the rods were used to add carbide to the pipe stem area to keep it from wearing thin from rubbing against the casing. It is brittle, (chipped a sizable peice with a chisel) but it takes awhile to grind on it. I got all of the tags off with files, and a little die grinder. (It looke like somebody held the rod to close as they yanked the lead causing it to touch sporatically.) So now I am corecting myself, it is hard facing rod, but that still doesn't explain the extreme brittleness.

I'm leaving the ram die, as it is. But I'm getting toggle arms and pitmans for sure. And it's carbide, chisels won't touch it. Wire brushed the welds, and they're still shiny like a carbide weld should be

... Some of the oil ports, and the pitman pins are welded with carbide into place. (Pitman pins, toggle arms,) They weren't technically welded into place, the assembly moves as it should, but the ptiman pins are not removable, and some of the oil ports are "tagged". (when something gets hit with the welding rod, completing the circuit, thus producing little random blots of welding rod, carbide, etc. intentionally or un-intentionally on a part, and or object.) Basically, 50+% of the oil ports have some sort of carbide bead on or over them. So I can't oil the pitmans, ram guides, or toggle arms. The die is welded into the ram, and I highly doubt it will come out with the ram fixable. It's welded from the top of the die to about 1/4 from the bottom of the die. (Carbide welded also) I have 2 weeks to work on this, and after 2 weeks, I can only work on it at night after school. I know I'm taking my toggle arms to the machine shop to get a quote on what they'd cost me to have machined out of armor plate. (Yes armor plate, what they specialize in for mill parts). Just to see if it'd be cheaper than $400 from Sid.

Looks like some kind of screen for a farm impliment. If it's cast it's either a drain grate, or a sifter of some sort for an impliment. If it's pressed it may be a peice of a light. I've seen an old light with something like that in it, just much smaller thickness

How do I remove carbide from the oil ports and ram on my L.G.? Does carbide cut carbide, or do I need to get diamond? The ram guides, and ram have been tagged pretty good with carbide to hold this old farmers hammer together. The pitman pins are completely welded into place. Should I diss-assemble the thing and take it to the machine shop and get it bored out?

I gotta find one of these

I got a quote from Keri, but I'll try to find one, thats gotten a broken frame or whatever and see if I can rob parts from it.

I am looking for basically the complete front assembly for a New Style Little Giant 50. It's be awesome if you were in the North Texas area(76384), as schools about to start, and summer moneys about to flow out.