basher

I was unaware that wrought iron was in any useful way weldable. I will look up those rods drilling and tapping the end of the bick and then building around an extension rod would by far be the easiest rout to go.....

So I have an 867 lb anvil with a snub nose..... I am considering re forging the bick . My plan is to turn it upside down and sling it under an engine crane with a couple of 2 by fours as long handles to guide it.... amd ratchets yop rotate it .....to heat the bick in a gasser and have a no 5 superheater nozzle handy, then to reforge the bick on another anvil on the face and then against the side of another anvil with sledges. The rest of the anvil is so wonderful that the worn away nose seems like a shame. I think I should be able to forge 6 inches of the bick without taking the temper out of the face. I think its a 3 person job (possably 4) What think you all... too risky or not?

The mix of meeting new people and working alone really makes it for me. I still find it a little strange that a large group of my best friends are internet friends, that is real friends that I have met through the internet. It has made me quite the globe trotter.......and I am grateful for it.

Thanks for the book heads up , It is a great little book and I would recommend it if you have an interest in industrial blacksmithing. Chain and Anchor Making in the Black Country .... thanks Owen

Agnes, I'll pass the word around to students..... I would defiantly get it on the BABA news letter. Good to hear you are all set up now. All the best Owen

The tylecote book is way out of print. If you look for it regularly it comes up second hand, somtimes in a glut and can be cheap then. Their wise its a costly book.

I would recomend . The solid phase welding of metals by Tylecote. You will have to order it from a library.

I try and take a very different attitude to the fit and finish of knives. My observations of historical pieces , especially swords lead me to believe that the meticulous fit and finish that is seen on modern American knives was not at all normal in historic pieces. I say not normal because I have seen a very few medieval swords that had nearly perfect fit (only one jumps to mind). I use cutlers resin and hard wax to fill gaps, a trick that I gleaned off of a swedish knife making champion (whose fit is as meticulous as it gets.). when Making Seax I leave the resin showing and polish it in with the front of the handle, I like the finish, it has a material honesty. There are many ways to skin a fish but I think that there is an obsession with fit and finish in modern bladesmithing that seems to overshadow other aspects of the craft..... That said it is a very individual thing , If you are aiming for perfect fit I find a permanent marker applied liberally to the tang will give a great indicator where the tang is touching the handle material. I am also an advocator of hot fitting tangs to get an exact fit. or try the wax sticks that you can buy from furnature repair places as they come in lots of colours.......

wayne, do you have the name of that book?

I have a couple of these one london pattern and one is a strange little anvil on a block. I will post piccies. I would love to see more pictures of the tommy hammers, as I want to remake one someday.

that is a very handsom blade.....

A handsom axe, I particularly like the side view with the valleys of Damascus.

I am still blown away that I belong to a craft that made tools 100 to 200 years ago that are still going strong. I wonder the tonnage of metal that an anvil of this size has seen in its life. I would imagine that my 3 or 4lb lumps of damascus (and 2 to 4lb hammers) are a gentle retirement work out for an anvil of this stature.

and as to the why.........

well my personal stash of big anvils has just gon up..... took delivery of an 866lb london pattern today..... my previous biggest one is 800lb..... I have a lump turning up next week that could well be more but I shall have to see , its not exactly one anvil..... piccies next week!!

you could try a sub critical anneal ...which is in reality a very high temper. ie heat the pommel up to below its critical temperature ( still magnetic or a dull red) and cool slowly again in ash. This will often do the trick.

I invested in one of those early on and use it as a hand rest and third hand for all sorts of stuff.......

Good Job. At some point I really must give this a go at grinding with a Jig. I have always ground free hand with no table on the grinder. I do a good quick job of it... But I find my wrists hurting. I think a jig or two may ease up some of the pressure from keeping hands locked in place.....

I think there is a real issue going on here. It is an intolerance of new and therefor obviously ignorant people who ask genuine questions. this is an internet site....... No one has to earn or deserve any of the wonderful information that is here, it is for EVERYBODY. (am I rite in thinking this) The same old same old will come up again and again and again (ad infinitum), it is the nature of the beast. The attitude shown here by certain people towards this is to my mind very confusing , and incredibly detrimental to this wonderful site. Why embrace being a curmudgeon? As a potentially first port entry place for people to the world of smithing and bladesmithing should there not be a genuine welcome? I am getting the feeling that there are a couple of member here who need to either rain on everybody's parade or be praised constantly for their input for the site. So for the record ...well done.......its great that you have put information on the internet . Now let people get on with reading it ....or not..... and quit winging about it. If the nay sayers were a little slower to nay say, there are lots of people here who love to just real out the same old good info ,again and again... it would make for a much more pleasant environment . It is the nature of the beast.

Samcro, I am trying to pull off an Arctic Fire meets the Oakland axe'n sax-in. Dave stephens is bringing film crew so it will all be recorded (but I don't think live streamed.) Its certainly the biggest Bladesmithing event ever in the UK.

Hello All, I have sent info out to everybody that emailed me if you want to come along or find out more please email me at www.forge-in@owenbush.co.uk I look forward to meeting you all at the event... All the best Owen

I was a little reticent putting the word international before the title, despite the mix of demonstrator nationalities.... So far there has been interest from America ,Norway , Holland, Switzerland ,Czech Republic , Ireland ,Greece, New zealand, Finland , Latvia, Spain , France and of course the UK. It is shaping up to be a great event

Well its going ahead..... I am proud to present the 2014 forge in at Bushfire Forge International symposium of the axe'n seax May 16th, 17th & 18th 2014 to be held at : BushFire Forge on the Kent /London Border UK 3 Days of demonstrations, lectures and forging etc… Demonstrations and Lectures by: Peter Johnsson – SWEDEN Jake Powning – CANADA Owen Bush – UK Petr Florianek – CZECH REPUBLIC Dr Stefan Meader - SWITZERLAND Alan Longmire – USA Jim Austen – USA Dave Stevens – USA There will also be a smelt and chances to have a go at forging using the school facilities. These are friendly international events are a great way to meet some of the worlds best Bladesmiths and tap into a wealth of information that you would be hard pushed to find elsewhere on the planet ! Saturday Evening Party to celebrate Owen’s 20 years of Forging ! (with mead and beer on me!!) : Fancy Dress/ Costume party Themed ‘Warriors Through the Ages’ !!!! (yes that does include pirates and ninjas!!!) Forge-In Price : £130 (this includes attendance to the 3 day forge-in and food on the Saturday night. Accommodation and your daily food is not included but there is a limited amount of crash space. For details about accommodation please contact us on the email below.) For more info please Email: forge-in@owenbush.co.uk

I have seen graphite used as a brazing block for silver soldering jewellery. in a similar manner to compressed charcoal blocks....

I have tried and my 6mm round just cracks up after around 20 blows.......I shall try and anneal some.....